BEFORE asking "Which pack/bag/boot...?", read these F.A.Q!
Mar 22, 2016 8:04:17 GMT -8
High Sierra Fan, vinovampire, and 17 more like this
Post by almostthere on Mar 22, 2016 8:04:17 GMT -8
Okay, Steve/bp2go asked me to throw together something like the FAQ from the old forum. I would like to preface this by saying welcome to the forum. Because we forget to do that sometimes when newbies show up here, we're so all about gear.
Secondly, most of this comes from the thousands of posts over the years in the forum responding to newbies. A lot of the same questions get asked repeatedly, as you can imagine. I am but a single backpacker but I've been here a while and done quite a bit of backpacking myself, so sprinkled throughout this FAQ are gems gleaned from the posts of a dozen or so regulars, hundreds of semi-regulars, and the posts on other forums, and the experiences of the folks I've backpacked with, and books like Allen and Mike's Really Cool Backpacking Book (you should read that, it's a good one) and Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills (also a good book for backpackers especially if you have an interest in shoulder season or winter trips and climbing mountains).
There will be those who disagree based on their own experiences. Backpacking is not a cut and dried thing. That's part of the fun. I have as much fun figuring out what to take on a trip to a new location as I do actually taking the trip, myself. I think perhaps I am not unique in that way.
So if you are a newbie to the forum and/or a newbie backpacker, read on with a grain of salt at the ready. Believe it or not, this is not a complete list. Plenty more to talk about.
General advice
If you have no gear and want help choosing it, realize first that you need experience to know what you personally will be comfortable carrying. Asking what to buy for backpacking is like asking what car you need, or what clothes to wear. The answer is always "it depends."
So the first thing you will be told is to rent or borrow gear. There are online rentals at lowergear.com or getoutfitted.com among others. Local sporting good stores will also rent gear.
Your first overnight backpack should be short and easy. It's about learning the process and getting comfortable , not taking the epic trip of a lifetime. You can do that more comfortably later, after you get the gear -- and packing and using it -- figured out. Some folks suggest going to a campground, taking the loaded backpack out of the car, and then pretending the car is not there unless you become very uncomfortable or something goes wrong -- then you have an easy bailout. Local parks are good for this. So is your back yard, if you have one. Get cold or wet and you can go inside.
You can also find a trip through an outfitter or something run by the Sierra Club. You'll pay for it, but often organizations provide all the gear and food for the trip, removing the variables and letting you have the experience without the anxiety of not wanting to make mistakes.
Don't fall for "it only weighs __, that's not much" -- everything weighs something, ounces add up to pounds, and pounds are sneaky. If you are very serious about cutting weight out of the pack, weigh everything on a good digital scale even if that means hauling everything to the post office. Manufacturers frequently post numbers that aren't really true -- and there can be variances in production that make one Thermarest weigh an ounce more than another. Don't just weigh the pack or leave out things -- pack as if you're actually going, and then take it all apart and weigh it all. You can use a spreadsheet or a website like Gear Grams to categorize and add up the ounces. You'll surprise yourself.
After a trip, come back and make lists of things you used and things you didn't. Leave stuff home next time. The most common things that are overpacked are food and clothing. You'll figure that out with practice. People eat differently while backpacking.
Shop the sales and the discount websites, and used gear forums on backpacking websites. Good gear can be found in last year's colors for a decent markdown.
Visit lnt.org - the Leave No Trace website. People leave an impact on the wilderness. We all need to know how to minimize that impact, and keep the wilderness wild for future trips.
Backpacks
The most important thing in buying a backpack is that it fits you well. The second most important thing is that your stuff fits inside it. A good backpack lets you carry the load without aches, pains and problems. Realize that not all backpack frames will work for all people. Your body type determines this, not the brand, or the preferences of others. Try a lot of different packs on with weight in them.
Fit means that it is the right length frame for your back -- the measurement is from the seventh cervical vertebrae to the top of your iliac crest. You do not need to provide your height, weight, girth, or other body facts to receive advice on a backpack that fits. You need to be measured by a friend or by a clerk at an outdoor sporting good store. Here is an article about measurements.
www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/backpacks-torso-hip-size.html
If you are trying to make your backpack as light as possible, always a wise thing to do, it may be that you want to find a lighter-than-usual pack. If you have gear purchased at Big 5 or REI, that may not be a good idea, just yet. The general advice is to get the pack last, to suit the load you will carry. Ultra-light backpacks without frames do not do well for carrying heavy gear.
Tents
If you are never planning epic long trips and never going in winter, this choice is easier. Almost any tent specifically made for backpacking will be okay in moderate weather. Cheap tents from Wal-Mart or Target will not. You will want a fly that provides coverage for the inner wall, not a "handkerchief" fly that the cheap tents have.
Be aware that five pounds is HEAVY for a two person tent, these days. You will be able to find shelters down to less than a pound that work for two people -- depending on your budget and your desire for specific features.
All shelters get condensation in the right conditions -- this is more to do with temperature and humidity. But a well ventilated tent does better than a tent with all the vents closed and the fly on the ground, against the inner mesh. Tents are not intended to keep you warm - they are supposed to keep weather out so your sleeping bag and pad can keep you warm. Use the guy lines, don't let the fly lay on the mesh.
Always stake out a tent. Gusty wind often happens on a sunny afternoon, and double wall tents make great kites.
Sleeping bags/pads
You get what you pay for. Cheap, light, warm -- pick two, you never get all three. High quality bags will not be cheap. Cheap bags will sometimes be warm enough, sometimes be light enough, but so, so, so rarely both.
Down does not get wet as easily as all the paranoia about it suggests. Relax. Get a down bag if you want light and compact. Unless you will be in a rainforest for many nights at a time, or hiking in a deluge for days on end, you'll be fine with down. Generally, you keep the bag stuffed in a waterproof sack until you have it inside a tent -- that is sufficient to keep the bag dry under most conditions. Down bags last decades if you care for them per the manufacturer's instructions. Store your down bag in a breathable storage bag loosely stuffed, not compressed.
Synthetics are better than they used to be, but they will still be heavier than a similar-rated down bag, and much bulkier. Cheap, they are. Long lasting, they are not -- expect to replace them if you backpack frequently, or if you keep them compressed for long periods of time.
Sleeping pads have R values assigned. Matching pads to the night temperatures you are expecting to camp in is a really good idea. People often get cold, blame the sleeping bag, and fail to realize that an inadequate pad is at fault. Since R values are additive, you can add a foam pad to another pad and make a light pad warmer. Comfort is another issue with pads -- you can get a foam pad that's bulky but light, or an inflatable that's heavier, but provides more cushion, and risk having a puncture. (Inflatables come with repair kits.) Some find it prudent to have a foam pad to pair with an inflatable, and then if the inflatable leaks they still have the foam pad for warmth. This too is a personal preference.
Hiking boots/shoes
Brand does not matter. Seriously, it really honestly doesn't. Synthetic hikers will last less than 1000 miles or so, some half that. Mass manufactured shoes are mostly the same in terms of durability.
What matters is the fit - the shape of the shoe, the size of the shoe, how it fits on your unique feet which are not like anyone else's and may require more width, more length, or less, more volume for broader or taller feet, more or less arch support -- you may need an orthotic to replace the stock insole, you may not. That's not going to be anything that anyone can tell you how to get -- we're all in the same boat. Go try on shoes. Have your feet measured.
Goretex or non? That's your preference. Some environments it makes sense to have waterproof shoes. Some people hate them. The Goretex is a liner in the shoe, and it can wear out faster than the actual shoe, leaking before the shoe needs replacing for other reasons.
The shoe should protect your feet from the pounding it takes doing miles on rocky trails. It should have good traction. Stability is a function of the sole, not the ankle cuff -- and anything less than a full boot does not give you ankle support. Mid height hikers or trail shoes do nothing directly to support the ankle. They do have a solid last in the sole, to support the foot, and exercise can build the muscles in the ankle so you have your own support.
Thru hikers on the PCT frequently wear trail runners, sneakers, Teva sandals or even go barefoot -- your shoe choice depends on what you perceive your needs to be, on your feet and what they need, and partly on where you hike. If you have problems with foot pain, ongoing blistering, or other foot issues that you can't resolve, seek professional advice from a podiatrist.
Trekking Poles
Generally the consensus is that they do help reduce stress on the joints if used properly. There are videos online for the googling to see how.
They also help hikers keep their footing while crossing streams, and some tents now allow you to use the trekking poles as tent poles, making them multi-use items.
Clothing
Clothes for three season backpacking in most wilderness areas in North America should be a system based a layered approach, with sufficient layers to keep you warm in the anticipated low temperatures (which vary a LOT depending on where you are). If you are brand new to backpacking, leave cotton out of your pack altogether. Synthetics are cheap and effective, and wool expensive and effective. Nylon pants, nylon or polypro shirt, synthetic or wool socks, a warm beanie hat, warm gloves, an extra pair of socks, and synthetic underwear. A waterproof layer -- poncho, jacket, pants, rain skirt -- and a warm insulating jacket. Wool or synthetic socks in a weight appropriate to the season. Winter clothing is a different discussion altogether.
Women may wish to use cotton underwear for health reasons. There exist synthetic briefs with cotton panels (Ex Officio) and wool underwear that's more breathable than synthetic. An extra pair in case the ones you are wearing get wet is a good idea. On extended trips, one pair can be washed and dried each day, to be worn the following day.
Clothes can be rinsed and dried while on the trip -- rain gear can be worn while doing laundry. If using soap, you should get a container of water (your cook pot, a bear can, a large ziplock, a folding bucket) and carry it far from the source to do the washing, then disperse all soapy water in accordance with Leave No Trace. There are some circumstances where this may not be feasible. Many backpackers just get used to themselves, and keep a clean change of clothing in the car, so they can take a wet wipe bath and change at the trailhead before stopping for a burger.
Water treatment
This is a matter of choice. But remember that no water treatment a backpacker can carry will remove minerals or toxins from water, and not all types of water treatment work well for all water sources -- for example, silty water clogs filters and resists treatment with UV, so extra steps must be taken to make it drinkable. It is best to research water sources before going on the trip, to determine what kind of treatment is needed.
Generally, keep filters from freezing. Steri-pens too. If your battery is marginal a good freeze can zap it and make a Steri-Pen useless. Good batteries recover from cold exposure, but take a small hit on their charge.
First Aid
Wilderness-specific first aid classes exist, and there are reasons to take them. Starting out, you need blister care, basic meds (analgesics, Tums, any prescriptions you need) and a basic idea of how to use them. As you get the motivation to go more, you can add stuff to the kit and information to your data bank on specific things. Information is lighter than gear, and more useful.
Many people start out getting one of the Adventure Medical kits that are sold at REI. Those are fine, but the more experience you get, you can expect to be removing things and adding others.
If you have a hot spot on your foot while hiking, stop and take care of it. If you are thirsty, drink. If you are out of water find more. If you are warm or cold, take off or put on a layer, or hike slower or harder. Have snacks often. Yes, this is first aid -- you are preventing dehydration which can lead to all kinds of other problems, and contributes to hypothermia, hyperthermia, hyponotremia, altitude sickness, all of which can alter your thinking and lead to poor judgment which in turn leads to really lousy decision-making.
If you are sick and are not getting better, or have some injury that you cannot figure out how to treat, leave the wilderness. If your hiking friend doesn't seem to be quite himself, consider walking him back to the car and leaving. He may be struggling with dehydration or something else listed above, and be unable to make that call for himself. Particularly if he is really irritable, grumbling, stumbling, mumbling, fumbling, and none of these things were normal behavior for him before the trip.
Why is this in a FAQ about gear? Because it's important. And it's an explanation of why you don't need a huge first aid kit, another thing people go overboard with -- you can carry SAM splints, suture kits, all kinds of things -- if you don't have a certification/training/skill base to suture someone it's useless weight. Don't carry things you don't know how to use. Learn to use them if you want to carry them, and once you understand what they are for you just might realize you don't need it after all.
Electronics
There can be much controversy about things with batteries. SPOT, InReach, and personal locator beacons can be useful, but they do not replace leaving good information with a friend back home -- look at reconn.org for an example of what information should be left, just in case, and leave it on the dashboard of your car if nowhere else. All emergency devices can fail, break, be stolen, be lost -- people you trust don't have batteries that are sensitive to cold.
GPS units aren't magic, either. Knowing how to use a map is important. Search and rescue teams frequently go out for people with fully functioning GPS units, because it's possible to know how to use a GPS and still not know how to use it. (In other words, you think you know how to use it, and then a situation develops that proves to you that you need to work on it more...) There are navigation classes, and experience in using compass, map, GPS, and other navigation tools is essential to effectively using them.
Secondly, most of this comes from the thousands of posts over the years in the forum responding to newbies. A lot of the same questions get asked repeatedly, as you can imagine. I am but a single backpacker but I've been here a while and done quite a bit of backpacking myself, so sprinkled throughout this FAQ are gems gleaned from the posts of a dozen or so regulars, hundreds of semi-regulars, and the posts on other forums, and the experiences of the folks I've backpacked with, and books like Allen and Mike's Really Cool Backpacking Book (you should read that, it's a good one) and Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills (also a good book for backpackers especially if you have an interest in shoulder season or winter trips and climbing mountains).
There will be those who disagree based on their own experiences. Backpacking is not a cut and dried thing. That's part of the fun. I have as much fun figuring out what to take on a trip to a new location as I do actually taking the trip, myself. I think perhaps I am not unique in that way.
So if you are a newbie to the forum and/or a newbie backpacker, read on with a grain of salt at the ready. Believe it or not, this is not a complete list. Plenty more to talk about.
General advice
If you have no gear and want help choosing it, realize first that you need experience to know what you personally will be comfortable carrying. Asking what to buy for backpacking is like asking what car you need, or what clothes to wear. The answer is always "it depends."
So the first thing you will be told is to rent or borrow gear. There are online rentals at lowergear.com or getoutfitted.com among others. Local sporting good stores will also rent gear.
Your first overnight backpack should be short and easy. It's about learning the process and getting comfortable , not taking the epic trip of a lifetime. You can do that more comfortably later, after you get the gear -- and packing and using it -- figured out. Some folks suggest going to a campground, taking the loaded backpack out of the car, and then pretending the car is not there unless you become very uncomfortable or something goes wrong -- then you have an easy bailout. Local parks are good for this. So is your back yard, if you have one. Get cold or wet and you can go inside.
You can also find a trip through an outfitter or something run by the Sierra Club. You'll pay for it, but often organizations provide all the gear and food for the trip, removing the variables and letting you have the experience without the anxiety of not wanting to make mistakes.
Don't fall for "it only weighs __, that's not much" -- everything weighs something, ounces add up to pounds, and pounds are sneaky. If you are very serious about cutting weight out of the pack, weigh everything on a good digital scale even if that means hauling everything to the post office. Manufacturers frequently post numbers that aren't really true -- and there can be variances in production that make one Thermarest weigh an ounce more than another. Don't just weigh the pack or leave out things -- pack as if you're actually going, and then take it all apart and weigh it all. You can use a spreadsheet or a website like Gear Grams to categorize and add up the ounces. You'll surprise yourself.
After a trip, come back and make lists of things you used and things you didn't. Leave stuff home next time. The most common things that are overpacked are food and clothing. You'll figure that out with practice. People eat differently while backpacking.
Shop the sales and the discount websites, and used gear forums on backpacking websites. Good gear can be found in last year's colors for a decent markdown.
Visit lnt.org - the Leave No Trace website. People leave an impact on the wilderness. We all need to know how to minimize that impact, and keep the wilderness wild for future trips.
Backpacks
The most important thing in buying a backpack is that it fits you well. The second most important thing is that your stuff fits inside it. A good backpack lets you carry the load without aches, pains and problems. Realize that not all backpack frames will work for all people. Your body type determines this, not the brand, or the preferences of others. Try a lot of different packs on with weight in them.
Fit means that it is the right length frame for your back -- the measurement is from the seventh cervical vertebrae to the top of your iliac crest. You do not need to provide your height, weight, girth, or other body facts to receive advice on a backpack that fits. You need to be measured by a friend or by a clerk at an outdoor sporting good store. Here is an article about measurements.
www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/backpacks-torso-hip-size.html
If you are trying to make your backpack as light as possible, always a wise thing to do, it may be that you want to find a lighter-than-usual pack. If you have gear purchased at Big 5 or REI, that may not be a good idea, just yet. The general advice is to get the pack last, to suit the load you will carry. Ultra-light backpacks without frames do not do well for carrying heavy gear.
Tents
If you are never planning epic long trips and never going in winter, this choice is easier. Almost any tent specifically made for backpacking will be okay in moderate weather. Cheap tents from Wal-Mart or Target will not. You will want a fly that provides coverage for the inner wall, not a "handkerchief" fly that the cheap tents have.
Be aware that five pounds is HEAVY for a two person tent, these days. You will be able to find shelters down to less than a pound that work for two people -- depending on your budget and your desire for specific features.
All shelters get condensation in the right conditions -- this is more to do with temperature and humidity. But a well ventilated tent does better than a tent with all the vents closed and the fly on the ground, against the inner mesh. Tents are not intended to keep you warm - they are supposed to keep weather out so your sleeping bag and pad can keep you warm. Use the guy lines, don't let the fly lay on the mesh.
Always stake out a tent. Gusty wind often happens on a sunny afternoon, and double wall tents make great kites.
Sleeping bags/pads
You get what you pay for. Cheap, light, warm -- pick two, you never get all three. High quality bags will not be cheap. Cheap bags will sometimes be warm enough, sometimes be light enough, but so, so, so rarely both.
Down does not get wet as easily as all the paranoia about it suggests. Relax. Get a down bag if you want light and compact. Unless you will be in a rainforest for many nights at a time, or hiking in a deluge for days on end, you'll be fine with down. Generally, you keep the bag stuffed in a waterproof sack until you have it inside a tent -- that is sufficient to keep the bag dry under most conditions. Down bags last decades if you care for them per the manufacturer's instructions. Store your down bag in a breathable storage bag loosely stuffed, not compressed.
Synthetics are better than they used to be, but they will still be heavier than a similar-rated down bag, and much bulkier. Cheap, they are. Long lasting, they are not -- expect to replace them if you backpack frequently, or if you keep them compressed for long periods of time.
Sleeping pads have R values assigned. Matching pads to the night temperatures you are expecting to camp in is a really good idea. People often get cold, blame the sleeping bag, and fail to realize that an inadequate pad is at fault. Since R values are additive, you can add a foam pad to another pad and make a light pad warmer. Comfort is another issue with pads -- you can get a foam pad that's bulky but light, or an inflatable that's heavier, but provides more cushion, and risk having a puncture. (Inflatables come with repair kits.) Some find it prudent to have a foam pad to pair with an inflatable, and then if the inflatable leaks they still have the foam pad for warmth. This too is a personal preference.
Hiking boots/shoes
Brand does not matter. Seriously, it really honestly doesn't. Synthetic hikers will last less than 1000 miles or so, some half that. Mass manufactured shoes are mostly the same in terms of durability.
What matters is the fit - the shape of the shoe, the size of the shoe, how it fits on your unique feet which are not like anyone else's and may require more width, more length, or less, more volume for broader or taller feet, more or less arch support -- you may need an orthotic to replace the stock insole, you may not. That's not going to be anything that anyone can tell you how to get -- we're all in the same boat. Go try on shoes. Have your feet measured.
Goretex or non? That's your preference. Some environments it makes sense to have waterproof shoes. Some people hate them. The Goretex is a liner in the shoe, and it can wear out faster than the actual shoe, leaking before the shoe needs replacing for other reasons.
The shoe should protect your feet from the pounding it takes doing miles on rocky trails. It should have good traction. Stability is a function of the sole, not the ankle cuff -- and anything less than a full boot does not give you ankle support. Mid height hikers or trail shoes do nothing directly to support the ankle. They do have a solid last in the sole, to support the foot, and exercise can build the muscles in the ankle so you have your own support.
Thru hikers on the PCT frequently wear trail runners, sneakers, Teva sandals or even go barefoot -- your shoe choice depends on what you perceive your needs to be, on your feet and what they need, and partly on where you hike. If you have problems with foot pain, ongoing blistering, or other foot issues that you can't resolve, seek professional advice from a podiatrist.
Trekking Poles
Generally the consensus is that they do help reduce stress on the joints if used properly. There are videos online for the googling to see how.
They also help hikers keep their footing while crossing streams, and some tents now allow you to use the trekking poles as tent poles, making them multi-use items.
Clothing
Clothes for three season backpacking in most wilderness areas in North America should be a system based a layered approach, with sufficient layers to keep you warm in the anticipated low temperatures (which vary a LOT depending on where you are). If you are brand new to backpacking, leave cotton out of your pack altogether. Synthetics are cheap and effective, and wool expensive and effective. Nylon pants, nylon or polypro shirt, synthetic or wool socks, a warm beanie hat, warm gloves, an extra pair of socks, and synthetic underwear. A waterproof layer -- poncho, jacket, pants, rain skirt -- and a warm insulating jacket. Wool or synthetic socks in a weight appropriate to the season. Winter clothing is a different discussion altogether.
Women may wish to use cotton underwear for health reasons. There exist synthetic briefs with cotton panels (Ex Officio) and wool underwear that's more breathable than synthetic. An extra pair in case the ones you are wearing get wet is a good idea. On extended trips, one pair can be washed and dried each day, to be worn the following day.
Clothes can be rinsed and dried while on the trip -- rain gear can be worn while doing laundry. If using soap, you should get a container of water (your cook pot, a bear can, a large ziplock, a folding bucket) and carry it far from the source to do the washing, then disperse all soapy water in accordance with Leave No Trace. There are some circumstances where this may not be feasible. Many backpackers just get used to themselves, and keep a clean change of clothing in the car, so they can take a wet wipe bath and change at the trailhead before stopping for a burger.
Water treatment
This is a matter of choice. But remember that no water treatment a backpacker can carry will remove minerals or toxins from water, and not all types of water treatment work well for all water sources -- for example, silty water clogs filters and resists treatment with UV, so extra steps must be taken to make it drinkable. It is best to research water sources before going on the trip, to determine what kind of treatment is needed.
Generally, keep filters from freezing. Steri-pens too. If your battery is marginal a good freeze can zap it and make a Steri-Pen useless. Good batteries recover from cold exposure, but take a small hit on their charge.
First Aid
Wilderness-specific first aid classes exist, and there are reasons to take them. Starting out, you need blister care, basic meds (analgesics, Tums, any prescriptions you need) and a basic idea of how to use them. As you get the motivation to go more, you can add stuff to the kit and information to your data bank on specific things. Information is lighter than gear, and more useful.
Many people start out getting one of the Adventure Medical kits that are sold at REI. Those are fine, but the more experience you get, you can expect to be removing things and adding others.
If you have a hot spot on your foot while hiking, stop and take care of it. If you are thirsty, drink. If you are out of water find more. If you are warm or cold, take off or put on a layer, or hike slower or harder. Have snacks often. Yes, this is first aid -- you are preventing dehydration which can lead to all kinds of other problems, and contributes to hypothermia, hyperthermia, hyponotremia, altitude sickness, all of which can alter your thinking and lead to poor judgment which in turn leads to really lousy decision-making.
If you are sick and are not getting better, or have some injury that you cannot figure out how to treat, leave the wilderness. If your hiking friend doesn't seem to be quite himself, consider walking him back to the car and leaving. He may be struggling with dehydration or something else listed above, and be unable to make that call for himself. Particularly if he is really irritable, grumbling, stumbling, mumbling, fumbling, and none of these things were normal behavior for him before the trip.
Why is this in a FAQ about gear? Because it's important. And it's an explanation of why you don't need a huge first aid kit, another thing people go overboard with -- you can carry SAM splints, suture kits, all kinds of things -- if you don't have a certification/training/skill base to suture someone it's useless weight. Don't carry things you don't know how to use. Learn to use them if you want to carry them, and once you understand what they are for you just might realize you don't need it after all.
Electronics
There can be much controversy about things with batteries. SPOT, InReach, and personal locator beacons can be useful, but they do not replace leaving good information with a friend back home -- look at reconn.org for an example of what information should be left, just in case, and leave it on the dashboard of your car if nowhere else. All emergency devices can fail, break, be stolen, be lost -- people you trust don't have batteries that are sensitive to cold.
GPS units aren't magic, either. Knowing how to use a map is important. Search and rescue teams frequently go out for people with fully functioning GPS units, because it's possible to know how to use a GPS and still not know how to use it. (In other words, you think you know how to use it, and then a situation develops that proves to you that you need to work on it more...) There are navigation classes, and experience in using compass, map, GPS, and other navigation tools is essential to effectively using them.