tigger
Trail Wise!
Posts: 2,547
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Post by tigger on Mar 7, 2019 18:08:39 GMT -8
I know we've got a few rock climbing experts in the group. I bought my kids all the gear and I've had a couple harnesses sitting around for a while. I went out to purchase some shoes for our local rock gym. I've tried to gleen what I can from the people selling them, but thought I'd rather get advice from the folk I trust (you experts) before I went and purchased. I've got a wide foot. I normally wear a 9.5 - 10.0. I found a size 11 in a BD Momentum (velcro) to feel most comfortable but I don't want to go too big.
This is what I've been told -
My toes should be slightly knuckled. Most people start with synthetic. Sizing is all over the board.
Are there any brands I should avoid or look toward. Are there features I should be wanting?
Thanks!!!
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 7, 2019 18:42:52 GMT -8
That is a complicated subject. Disclaimer: I'm not an expert; swimmy is a much better climber than I. May be better to discuss via PM, but I'll start the discussion.
I'd start with a shoe that is comfortable without being too loose. Tighter fitting shoes are best for climbing the hard stuff. But if you are just getting into it, best to have something that doesn't make you wince when you put them on. If you stick with Five Ten or La Sportiva you can't go wrong. Stay away from Evolv. Not familiar with BD shoes, but no one I know uses them.
A shoe with a sharply down turned toe is probably not a good choice for someone getting started.
If I had to recommend any one shoe for someone getting into the game it would be a La Sportiva Mythos. A good all round shoe that does everything pretty well. It's not a racehorse, but a really good shoe that will be reasonable comfortable and capable of anything you are likely to get on to. It has been around for several years and is still a "go to" for a lot of good climbers. I'm biased, it's what I use.
There are a lot of specialized shoes out there. Most really good climbers have different shoes for different types of climbing (thin cracks, wide cracks, face (edging) and slabs (friction).
The general thought is to buy a shoe 1/2 to 1 size below your sneaker size. Really hard climber often buy them two sizes smaller. But like backpacking equipment it is all subjective. Try on a pair that matches your sneaker size and a few sizes below to see what you think will work for you.
eta: oh yeah, sizing is a freak show. There doesn't seem to be any real standardization and one production run may be different than another. Even moreso than hiking boots, ya gotta try them on and walk around a bit. If they hurt just a little they may work. If they really hurt walking around, probably to small for one getting started. I don't like shoes that hurt. A tad uncomfortable is okay; hurt is not.
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 7, 2019 18:57:40 GMT -8
This is what I've been told - My toes should be slightly knuckled. Most people start with synthetic. Sizing is all over the board. That's pretty much BS from people wanting to pose and sell you something. Sure, good advice if you want to climb 5.13. I like leather as it stretches a bit a bit and over time conforms to your feet. Synthetics don't stretch. If it hurts when you put it on, it will always hurt. Again, as with BP gear, everyone has an opinion.
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 8, 2019 18:25:53 GMT -8
Okay tigger , I had some time and checked out the BD Momentum shoe on-line. Looks pretty good and might be worth a shot. Favorable reviews. I'm gonna post up on supertopo and see what kind of feedback comes. It may be a few days as this is Friday night and most are heading out to go climbing.
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Mar 9, 2019 14:26:47 GMT -8
What do the other children at the gym wear? That’s a decent baseline, especially the people sporting well used gear.
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 9, 2019 14:45:50 GMT -8
Oops, maybe I missed your question. Are you looking for shoes for the kidz? That's a whole other topic that I'm not well versed on. How old are the kidz?
I'd be buying the cheapest thing with sticky rubber if they will be growing out of them soon. And you definitely want them to fit comfortably. For that matter, back in the 1950s people climbed 5.8 in Keds.
If you are looking for kid shoes, I can post that up on supertopo and expect I'd get a number of responses. Let me know.
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Mar 9, 2019 15:08:21 GMT -8
Kids are the context I get from this: “I bought my kids all the gear and I've had a couple harnesses sitting around for a while. I went out to purchase some shoes for our local rock gym. ”
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 9, 2019 15:39:09 GMT -8
I've got a wide foot. I normally wear a 9.5 - 10.0. I found a size 11 in a BD Momentum (velcro) to feel most comfortable but I don't want to go too big. HSF: Did you read that part of the post?
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 9, 2019 16:19:30 GMT -8
tigger : finding a shoe for wide feet is nearly impossible. To get room in the forefoot width will require a shoe that is too long. I get your drift; I have a wide forefoot and have not found a shoe that is comfortable. An alternative would be approach shoes. While not made for hard climbing, they fit more like sneakers than climbing shoes. They have sticky rubber and are used regularly on up to 5.10 routes (granted, experienced climbers). Google Five Ten and La Sportive for what they offer. I have some Five Ten Guide Tennies that get me up 5.8 and are very comfy.
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tigger
Trail Wise!
Posts: 2,547
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Post by tigger on Mar 9, 2019 16:32:39 GMT -8
Thank you! I will confirm I am allowed to use them at the Gym and go from there.
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Mar 9, 2019 18:41:56 GMT -8
I've got a wide foot. I normally wear a 9.5 - 10.0. I found a size 11 in a BD Momentum (velcro) to feel most comfortable but I don't want to go too big. HSF: Did you read that part of the post? Ah, got distracted by his children mention, which I guess wasn’t really relevant. OTOH I’d stick to my suggestion of checking out what others there are using. Especially regulars with well worn gear. I’ve never done any constructed wall climbing so I’ve no basis from which to recommend anything. Though my impression is it’s more edge and friction than cracks for what that’s worth.
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 9, 2019 18:45:45 GMT -8
I will confirm I am allowed to use them at the Gym and go from there. How does the saying go; don't ask for permission.... eta: chances are no one of the gym managers will care what what shoes you are wearing.
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 9, 2019 18:47:57 GMT -8
Though my impression is it’s more edge and friction than cracks for what that’s worth. Absolutely true.
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Mar 9, 2019 18:55:47 GMT -8
Snow does impede outside climbing for so many places. Sigh. “Winter climbing” in San Diego just meant fewer rattlesnakes out at Santee boulders. Or Joshua Tree.
But I suppose it’s like roller trainers: a necessary evil imposed by geography.
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 10, 2019 16:35:15 GMT -8
tigger : I thought about this and suggest you call Mountain Tools and talk to Larry for his recommendations. Buy from them as well; their customer support is superlative. Larry and Jane run the store. If a woman answers it will most likely be Jane. Tell Larry your requirements/intended use and he will give you the best input; he knows his product and is an honest guy. I've spent quite a bit of money at Mountain Tools and never been dissatisfied. You'll likely want to buy a range of sizes and return those that don't fit. If you tell him up front that is your intention I sincerely think that will not be a problem at all. They are climbers and have owned the shop for over 25 years and know how it goes with shoes and fit. Maybe trace your feet outlines, add critical dimensions and scan the tracing to send him. www.mtntools.com/Here is the feedback received on supertopo: www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3181438/Best-Climbing-Shoe-For-Wide-Feet
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