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Post by johntpenca on Mar 13, 2019 15:11:02 GMT -8
tigger: revisit the supertopo link. There has been additional input that may be worth looking at.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Mar 13, 2019 15:43:49 GMT -8
Will do. Thanks for the heads up. I read it a couple of days ago. By the way, my gym is fine with using approach shoes as long as they are dedicated to the task - no shoes that have been used on the streets, only rock indoor or outside. I am going back to REI to start trying them on as well.
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 14, 2019 17:53:46 GMT -8
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Mar 15, 2019 7:02:08 GMT -8
I'm in Bend (Central Oregon). It's called the Bend Rock Gym (crazy name, right?). I'll give him a call today. I was busy running around yesterday.
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Post by johntpenca on Mar 18, 2019 17:18:22 GMT -8
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Mar 18, 2019 17:37:50 GMT -8
Thanks for the heads up. I'll check those ones out.
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FamilySherpa
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Post by FamilySherpa on Jan 5, 2021 12:19:32 GMT -8
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I specifically remembered and searched for this one... tigger , which shoe did you end up buying for yourself?My kids got punch passes to the local climbing gym, as well as shoes and harnesses for christmas and so i've been with them 3 times now. I'm really enjoying it, but the rental shoes are driving me mad. I've tried everything from a 10 (my regular shoe size) up to 11.5 and all of them hurt in some way. So i went to the local gear store and the sizing seems to be all over the place. With black diamond, i'm an 11.5, but with La Sportiva, i'm a ~10.5 (its euro sizing so thats the rough equivalent). All the while, most people who seem to know climbing say i should be trying on a 9.5 for most brands for sizing down and allowing for stretching. I'm not sure I am willing to lose a toenail for this sport. The La Sportiva mythos were by far the most comfortable, but my goodness at $150, I really gotta be sure.
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walkswithblackflies
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Post by walkswithblackflies on Jan 5, 2021 13:04:30 GMT -8
First, there is no such thing as a comfortable rock shoe. There are only varying degrees of pain. If you can find one that is merely "uncomfortable", then you've found your shoe.
One tip if you buy a non-synthetic shoe... briefly soak it in water and wear it until it dries. The leather will stretch then conform to your foot.
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Jan 5, 2021 13:07:08 GMT -8
^sadly true^ for all but my Royal Robbins. Once it all transitioned to EB variations the squeeze was on and has never let go.
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Jan 5, 2021 13:25:07 GMT -8
My kids got punch passes to the local climbing gym, as well as shoes and harnesses for christmas and so i've been with them 3 times now. I'm really enjoying it, but the rental shoes are driving me mad. I've tried everything from a 10 (my regular shoe size) up to 11.5 and all of them hurt in some way. So i went to the local gear store and the sizing seems to be all over the place. With black diamond, i'm an 11.5, but with La Sportiva, i'm a ~10.5 (its euro sizing so thats the rough equivalent). All the while, most people who seem to know climbing say i should be trying on a 9.5 for most brands for sizing down and allowing for stretching. I'm not sure I am willing to lose a toenail for this sport. The La Sportiva mythos were by far the most comfortable, but my goodness at $150, I really gotta be sure. I ended up buying the same ones they use for rentals (5 Ten). Although I tried a ton of others on, The super quick break-in is what I was sold on to be honest. I'm sure they aren't the grippiest, etc., but for me...comfort is king (and they were cheap too). I went through the same sizing struggle. I'm sure if you want to hang upside down from your toes, super tight fit may be important, but I'm more of the...Hang out with my kids and climb the wall type.
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walkswithblackflies
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Post by walkswithblackflies on Jan 6, 2021 5:59:32 GMT -8
I ended up buying the same ones they use for rentals (5 Ten) The O.R.A.N.G.E ones?
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tigger
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Post by tigger on Jan 6, 2021 8:29:39 GMT -8
Yes, actually I believe so.
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walkswithblackflies
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Post by walkswithblackflies on Jan 7, 2021 10:38:15 GMT -8
You can tell that the 3 gentlemen on the left are wearing the wrong shoes:
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