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Post by walkingmiller on Sept 18, 2017 8:26:15 GMT -8
Hello everyone! My wife and I are planning a 3 week car camping trip this summer to see a bit of what California and Oregon have to offer. We will have a new baby (5ish months old), so we are trying to limit the amount of driving we are going to be doing. At this point we are thinking about flying into San Francisco and out of Portland. This will be our first time in California and Oregon, so we are open to doing many different things, but we love hiking and camping and are both in good shape. We also love great food and drink but don't have much of a desire to spend much time in cities. As we are planning the trip, we have a few questions for anyone who lives in the area or has plenty of experience with the area: - First, we will be limited to the summer months (May - July), but we have some freedom within that time period. Do you all have any recommendations for timing (is July too crowded for these areas or will there be too much snow on the ground in the higher elevations in May)?
- Second, our general plan is to spend one week in three different places. Our current inclination for those places is Yosemite, the Redwoods and somewhere along the Oregon coast. Any recommendations for specific places to stay within those areas (specific campgrounds, national forests, areas along the Oregon coast)? Or, would you recommend a completely different destination than what we have in mind?
- Third, any general recommendations for us as we are planning the trip? Do we need to start reserving campsites relatively soon? Should we avoid spending too much time in Yosemite (I've heard it is incredibly crowded)?
- Last, this will be our first time camping with a baby, so any suggestions for making it a good experience from those who have done it before? We plan on having a few different "bail out" options along the way, but any other suggestions are very welcome!
Thank you for your help! Please let me know if I can answer any further questions to make things more specific!
walkingmiller
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whistlepunk
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Post by whistlepunk on Sept 18, 2017 11:27:27 GMT -8
Although it is too early to tell what kind of Winter the Sierra Nevada mountains will have, May usually still sees lots of high country inaccessible. Yes, Yosemite Valley is packed wall to wall people in July. However, the the parts of the Park outside the valley have less pressure.
Redwoods won't have snow. Rain and fog are a strong possibility and add to the ambience of the coastal rainforest. The Redwood NP is only a small part of the 'Redwood Zone' which actually extends from south of San Francisco to southern Oregon. The big tree groves are in Redwood NP and the associated state parks. In live near Lassen Volcanic NP, so I have a bias. The geothermal areas and multicolored volcanic feature are interesting. North of Lassen is the Lava Beds National Monument. Not really a hiking park, it is a caver's park. Lots of lava tubes to explore.
Oregon Coast is worth a trip on its own. You can safely ignore Crater Lake except as a one day drive through. The lake is cool to look at from the road, but access to the water is sharply restricted, and only one trail goes to the lake edge. The lake itself is a 'look but don't touch'.
Once you settle on more details post back and we can fill in more hints and tips.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Sept 19, 2017 9:49:54 GMT -8
For the high Sierra, you will need to think mid-late July or August. You might consider doing this trip starting from Portland, coming down the coast and ending in the Sierra, to push that part of the trip as late as possible. Or you might just do it all from SF, driving up the coast to the Redwoods NP, camping several nights at Prairie Creek Redwoods or similar, then cutting over to the mountains, possibly by going straight east and taking in Lassen then on down to Yosemite or environs (you don't have to be much outside the park to get away from crowds).
For lots on travel/hiking with babies, check the "Backpacking with Kids" section above. But my thoughts from experience from a surprisingly long time ago (my "baby" starts college next week):
--pre-ambulatory babies are the easiest to camp with. They stay where you put them.
--breast-feeding (assuming it is possible) means not having to worry about sterilizing bottles, etc.
--you have to pay more attention to temperature regulation for the baby, because he/she can't tell you. It's easy for them to overheat in a front carrier (where you'll be carrying at 5 months), or to get chilled while you are warm from exercise.
--You'll be hitting a wide range of temps, so be prepared with everything from the full-coverage bunting suit to skimpy onesies. My MiL made a special bunting bag for our babies, with the hood and arms/mitten flaps, but with the legs together in a bag rather than separated for car seats. That was the sleeping outfit, with a blanket or my down jacket over him as needed. You'll need insulation, more than padding, under the baby in the tent.
--Best piece of advice I ever got, from someone's journal of the Oregon trail: "We learned that it does not kill a baby to go without a bath for 3 months." Dirt is fine, though you'll need to be prepared to clean up blow-outs.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Sept 19, 2017 9:50:39 GMT -8
Oh, and I think you can start reserving campsites 6 months in advance, though you might check if it's sooner. If you want to camp at Yosemite Valley or Tuolumne Meadows, the sooner the better for reservations.
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speacock
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Post by speacock on Sept 27, 2017 14:29:26 GMT -8
In 'normal' snow years, there is snow at 11,000' covering the trail on Father's Day (for 15 years). After a (normal)heavy snow year we went from Horseshoe Meadows to Crescent Meadows (East to West across Sierra) at end of July and had snow only at the first pass (Army Pass).
I'd consider flying into LAX and head up US-395 on the eastern side of the Sierra. Then cut over into Yosemite at Tioga Pass. This could be a killer in July because there will be a LOT of people in Yosemite and you will be driving through the only road in/out from the east side. You just need to take a half a Motrin and allow your patience with your other travelers to smooth out. Tuolumne Meadows is beautiful and worth seeing if you won't be back for awhile. You may not find a place to park, however. Sorry.
Going up the east side gives you (in about 5 hours) access to Sierra beauty you won't necessarily see in your limited time from the west side. The Sierra were lifted from the east so all the vertical stuff is there. Nice gentle trails on the west. Your trail heads will start around 10,000' on the east side and around 7,000' on the west. In 7 miles you can be at 12,000' for lunch on the east side (Independence, CA). The first access to the Sierra is at Lone Pine (home of Mt Whitney) and from Horseshoe Meadows in 7 miles be at a dozen lakes in two drainages for lunch and looking up at a wall with a 14,000' Mt Langley (as a walk up) at the top. Bishop farther north is a wonderful day hike from South Lake toward Bishop bass with Long Lake (beautiful) in 3mi. In 8 miles you'd be there...late lunch. Going along US395 you get to look over your shoulder at most of the 14,000' peaks in the state.
On the west side from SF, it is a 5 hour trip to Sequoia and Mineral King. Mineral King is a WOW after an hour of driving on a tortuously twisted road. You are, however very close to 10,000' You can't drive to that anywhere else on the west side. Sequoia and Kings Canyon are beautiful just by being a tourist and hugging all of those MASSIVE redwoods. A trail to the best scenery on the west side of Sequoia is up the trail a bit from Bearpaw Meadown (out of Crescent Meadows) - that is a fairly gentle but long overnight. You don't gain much altitude but there is a lot of ups/downs.
Kings Canyon is a one way in and out but road end has some wonderful trail heads for a day when the kid is a bit older.
Next stop is Yosemite Valley. Plan to be there at day break to catch a parking spot and take the tour of the valley on a guided tour bus. You won't see the Valley any better. It will be snow free in May.
Out of Portland is Mt Rainier. Plan on day hikes on the Wonderland Trail out and back from all the road accesses (especially up to Souther Land) - assuming the snow level is high - July might be a bit early but still a nice drive around it.
More detail if you are leaning to this side jaunt from your plans.
*Edit 10-29-17 to remove blatant errors and lies I'd get caught at.
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Sept 27, 2017 23:39:40 GMT -8
As mentioned a bit above time Yosemite for last to get a better time in the high country that can hold snow through June and consequently a LOT of mosquitos. While Tuolumne Meadows campground has reservable sites (half of the big total, 340??) in July there are also other campgrounds along Tioga Rd that are all first come first served. I stayed two weeks in August in one (Porcupine) and there were available sites every day. ETA: here’s a list of the opening dates for the Tioga Rd for when they’ve plowed it free of snow plus related information. They do aim for Memorial Day weekend but that’s subject to winter snowfall plus other factors. www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/tioga.htm |
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Sept 28, 2017 17:49:58 GMT -8
Thinking about the hiking speacock suggests (and I'll second that about the Eastern Sierra), let me add that the baby will need to acclimatize some too, even though he/she won't be hiking  We took our eldest up Mt. Evans at about 8 months, only a week out from sea level...he wasn't entirely happy with us (I don't think it hurt him in a long-term sense, but an uncomfortable baby is no one's favorite companion). |
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Post by brucej on Sept 29, 2017 11:58:50 GMT -8
If you head to Oregon, I highly recommend this book by Gregory Plumb for waterfall finding: www.amazon.com/Waterfall-Lovers-Guide-Pacific-Northwest/dp/1594857539/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506714846&sr=8-1&keywords=gregory+plumb+waterfallsOregon is an absolute waterfall wonderland, and Plumb seems to get nearly all of them. From the waterfalls of the Willamette Forest to Silver Falls State Park the Columbia Gorge, there is not other place in the lower 48 quite like it. I highly recommend Salt Creek Falls, Watson falls, Silver Falls State Park, the MacKenzie River cataracts and the Columbia Gorge, among others. Note - if you go to the Gorge, check in advance, because they just a huge forest fire (Eagle Creek Fire), and it may be awhile before all the major trails are open again. I'll probably have more things about California below.Good luck, and have a blast! |
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Post by brucej on Sept 29, 2017 12:08:50 GMT -8
Also in OR, the coast is wonderful. Samuel Boardman State Park near the southern end has many short but steep hikes to arches and beaches, and as you head north, the coast is a cornucopia of not only great natural beauty but also spectacular 1930s era bridges at every river crossing.
I would recommend:
- Stopping at many lighthouses.
- Hiking and viewing at Cape Perpetua - Thor's Well and the Blowhole are awesome.
- Kentucky Falls near Florence, Drift Creek Falls near Newport, Munson Falls near Tillamook
- so many "to die for" beaches one cannot count. Oregon Dunes, Lincoln City, Neptune, Cannon Beach and the tidepool-rich Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area north of Newport come to mind.
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Post by brucej on Sept 29, 2017 12:20:51 GMT -8
If you stick near the CA coast, I echo what others have said about the redwood groves at Humboldt SP, and especially Prairie Creek and Del Norte redwoods SPs. These two parks in particular have the finest redwood groves on the planet. Huge trees, lush near-rainforests, some awesome beaches, elk, and lovely campgrounds (make reservations if you can). My favorite is Prairie Creek, and the trails there are truly enchanting...plus it has elk and Gold Buffs beach, with its Fern Canyon trail.
Farther south, Point Reyes National Seashore near San Francisco is 100 square miles of wilderness and beaches and trails, although camping is limited to backpack camps and a couple of private campgrounds on the inland side. one can hike to a lovely beach waterfall at Alamere falls, but unless you want to walk ~ 13.5 miles, it requires a doable scramble down a 40-foot cliff (don't worry, thousands do it every year). Samuel Taylor State Park is the nearest SP campground, not a long drive at all. Mount Tamalpais State park and the Marin Muni Water District lands are lovely for hiking too, but to choose from the 1000 miles of trails there would take some time. If you go to Mount Tam, I recommend the trails on the SW side near the ocean and Muir Woods. If you want some specific suggestions, please let me know.
Farther north, Salt Point State Park, the Stornetta Public lands, and the parks of the Mendocino coast - Mendocino headlands, Russian Gulch, Van Damme and Jughandle - are all very pretty parks for hiking.
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Post by brucej on Sept 29, 2017 12:27:48 GMT -8
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whistlepunk
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Post by whistlepunk on Sept 29, 2017 14:35:09 GMT -8
If you do stop in Lincoln City, there is one item you can scratch off your bucket list -- hiking the entire length of a river from source to sea. The D River.
It's only about 400 feet long at high tide, but it is a separate river. So it counts.
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bp2go
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Post by bp2go on Oct 1, 2017 11:08:57 GMT -8
Too many things to see! Lots of good ideas here but I liked the idea of starting LAX and getting to the east sideASAP to go north on 395. The scenery is way better than north on 5, and you get to see Mono Lake (South Tufa and Visitor Center are worth an hour or two, it's 15,000 years old! (...the lake, not the visitor center!) before the breathtaking drive up to Tioga Pass, and then through the park to exit west and head to the next destination. Redwoods? Sure. And also the idea of Mt Rainier sounds a stretch, but yes to that idea.
Just another set of thoughts. And if you can, get some smoked salmon from one of the places along the coast!
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Oct 1, 2017 20:20:16 GMT -8
go north on 395. The scenery is way better than north on 5, This may be the single greatest understatement I've ever read. |
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ogg
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Post by ogg on Oct 2, 2017 17:25:34 GMT -8
go north on 395. The scenery is way better than north on 5 This may be the single greatest understatement I've ever read. The 5 is a slog. It belongs to the truckers. Avoid it if you can; let the truckers rule it. |
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We took our eldest up Mt. Evans at about 8 months, only a week out from sea level...he wasn't entirely happy with us (I don't think it hurt him in a long-term sense, but an uncomfortable baby is no one's favorite companion).
