jdlp
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SoCal hiker and backpacker, occasional kayaker, looking to explore
Posts: 61
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Post by jdlp on Apr 5, 2017 10:36:40 GMT -8
Hey everyone! Just signed up and want to start off my time in this forum to see if I can get some info/ideas/feedback on some summer trips I'm trying to plan.
Since I don't get much time off, I'm mostly restricted to long weekends for more distant travel from my home in Los Angeles, and was thinking of doing Death Valley Memorial Day Weekend and Great Basin 4th of July Weekend.
For Death Valley, main goal is Telescope Peak. Maybe backpack on it one night, and then afterward stay at Wildrose Campground and wander down into the low areas early in the daytime.
For Great Basin, figure take the 4 day weekend for longer drive, do Wheeler Peak and then...something else over 2 or 3 nights.
My questions are:
- Will Death Valley be too miserably hot in late May, once I go lower than Wildrose? - What is the weather like in Great Basin early July? - What other good things are there to do in Great Basin? Is there a lot to see? Is 3 nights a good amount of time for this? - Any general thoughts or advice appreciated too.
Thank you very much!
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Apr 6, 2017 9:44:01 GMT -8
My questions are: - Will Death Valley be too miserably hot in late May, once I go lower than Wildrose? - What is the weather like in Great Basin early July? - What other good things are there to do in Great Basin? Is there a lot to see? Is 3 nights a good amount of time for this? - Any general thoughts or advice appreciated too. DV: Yes, miserable at lower elevations, but if you are willing to get up before sunrise and do your wandering before 8 a.m., you can enjoy it. Mostly plan to stay high. GB: at the high elevations, you're good. We hiked Wheeler Peak in mid-June a couple of years ago and it was good. In fact, we have only ever done that park in summer, and it's fine, though I think the lower elevation camps and trails might be warm. If you can reserve, I'd nail down a campsite at the high camp. That's at 10,000', so it will also allow you to acclimatize maybe a night or two before you go for the peak (we did the peak after driving straight out from SF and survived, but there was some puking involved). What besides the peak? Definitely the cave tour. And I understand there are some nice trails in some of the less-traveled areas, but I haven't explored them. It's usually just a stop-over for us between CA and CO. General advice: about summer travel in the hot places. We have done a fair bit of this, due to the spouse's academic calendar, which gives us lots of free time in summer, and not much anytime else. We have hiked some very hot places at very hot times of year, carrying plenty of water and using the early and late hours. We always plan to spend mid-days either in the car with AC on or in town, visitor's center, etc. And you have the other idea already: go high. I can recall one summer getting tired of heat as we crossed the CO Plateau, so we headed up to Cedar Breaks--and dang near froze, at 10,000'. There was a really great t-storm, though!
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jdlp
Trail Wise!
SoCal hiker and backpacker, occasional kayaker, looking to explore
Posts: 61
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Post by jdlp on Apr 6, 2017 12:48:22 GMT -8
Thank you RebeccaD! Based on the feedback, almost thinking maybe just do Panamints for this first DV trip, and go back next year in January and February to see the lower valley, aside from maybe a few small, morning excursions this trip.
No reservation at Wheeler Peak Campground unfortunately (the one at 10,000'), but will definitely go for that one.
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zeke
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Post by zeke on Apr 6, 2017 13:38:57 GMT -8
jdlp Late Feb or early March is prime wild flower time on most of the valley floor. I would highly recommend that time frame for any future visit.
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whistlepunk
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Post by whistlepunk on Apr 7, 2017 9:37:35 GMT -8
Last time I was in Great Basin (in June) it was 108 in Baker, but a delightful mid 70s on top.
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jdlp
Trail Wise!
SoCal hiker and backpacker, occasional kayaker, looking to explore
Posts: 61
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Post by jdlp on Apr 7, 2017 15:10:43 GMT -8
Thanks zeke and whistlepunk . Will be sure to bring coolant/distilled water for the road (honestly car overheating has me more worried than anything, but car has been pretty solid thus far).
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whistlepunk
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Post by whistlepunk on Apr 7, 2017 17:27:03 GMT -8
The paved road is a long steady grade.
Don't know if the road to Lexington Arch is open. Closed for a couple years to let the area recover after a fire. The arch was an interesting side trip. Nice day hike. That road was really rough, crawled up it in 4wd low in places.
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jdlp
Trail Wise!
SoCal hiker and backpacker, occasional kayaker, looking to explore
Posts: 61
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Post by jdlp on Apr 10, 2017 12:06:04 GMT -8
Thanks for the FYI on Lexington Arch whistlepunk I'll see if that's a viable drive, or if not that, a hike. Sounds like it might be a no go for my Prius, though I've been able to surprise myself at times with some of the places I've managed to drive it.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Apr 10, 2017 19:39:41 GMT -8
Sounds like it might be a no go for my Prius, though I've been able to surprise myself at times with some of the places I've managed to drive it. Oh, you too? We've taken ours on some...interesting roads. Can't seem to quite get over giving up the Outback. We have the dings to prove it.
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jdlp
Trail Wise!
SoCal hiker and backpacker, occasional kayaker, looking to explore
Posts: 61
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Post by jdlp on Jun 7, 2017 8:52:01 GMT -8
Follow up on the Death Valley trip:
Was amazing.
The drive itself was pretty great too. Drove to Ridgecrest overnight, but drove from there through Panamint Valley to Stovepipe Wells. Having grown up on the east coast, and having lived in California for only 2, I've never seen such a vast, open remote area before, even compared to some of the other areas I've been in before. Stunning area (aside from Trona).
Stayed 2 nights in the mountains so temperature was very comfortable. Made it to Thorndike in my low-clearance, 2WD vehicle and that was enough for me. Did Wildrose Peak first day. Was okay. Good for acclimating. Did Telescope Peak second day and was blown away. Probably one of my favorite hikes now. Was constantly amazed how many living things were there. Loved the Bristlecone Pine Trees.
Wandered around the Valley floor to do some touristy things before driving out the east entrance, through Death Valley Junction where I stopped at a nice, artsy cafe I'd like to go back to (Amargosa Cafe, I think). Went back to SoCal through the Mojave, which once again redefined my ideas of remoteness. Again though, it was a stunningly beautiful, wild, undeveloped area (which I hope doesn't turn into another Cadillac desert).
Overall, great trip. Exactly what I needed. Now planning out Great Basin, though considering swapping it for Lassen Volcanic, a 4 day backpacking trip in the southern Sierras, or using some airline points to visit a National Park near Seattle.
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whistlepunk
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Post by whistlepunk on Jun 7, 2017 9:55:22 GMT -8
Hwy 89 through LAVO is still not open. At last report there was still 12-14 foot snow pack at the high point on the road. Don't know if it will be open by July 4. If it is long stretches of it may be white walls. Butte Lake in the NE corner of the Park is open. Warner Valley and Juniper Lake will be open by then.
If you do Butte Lake the hike to Cinder Cone is a must do. The last 1/4 mile is a real slog through soft volcanic cinder -- like walking up a 400 foot tall sand dune. The view from the top is world class, with the swirling colors of the Fantastic Lava Beds and Painted Dunes below you. A real bizarre landscape. You can paddle Butte Lake. No motors allowed, water is crystal clear all the way down. In the center of the lake is an archipelago of lava islands. Fun to paddle through, like a maze. In the town of Old Station, north of the Park is a lava tube, called Subway Cave. All touristed up with stairways and interpretive signs through the 1/3 mile cave. Bring flashlights.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Jun 7, 2017 10:01:20 GMT -8
Stunning area (aside from Trona). Trona is seriously ugly. But the Trona Towers are kind of cool, if a bit worn. I've never been up Telescope Peak, since we are always in DV in spring. It's on my list
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Jun 7, 2017 10:04:52 GMT -8
P.S.--you can do a nice 2 or 3 day loop on Butte and Snag Lakes (Lassen), including the Cinder Cone. I had a TR of the loop on the old Forums, but alas, that's gone. This link has a few photos following the book review: www.ninjalibrarian.com/2015/04/l-mt-lassen.html
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jdlp
Trail Wise!
SoCal hiker and backpacker, occasional kayaker, looking to explore
Posts: 61
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Post by jdlp on Jun 7, 2017 10:39:28 GMT -8
rebeccad I can't recommend Telescope enough. Spring is probably ideal time as well, though you may need an ice axe and crampons/microspikes depending on the snow. I'm guessing the wildflowers on the drive up through Wildrose canyon are stunning as well. The views are incredible though with Panamint Valley on one side alone with all the mountain ranges between the Panamints and the Sierras (which were very snow-capped while I was there). On the other side of course is Death Valley, and more mountains reaching into Nevada. The Panamints themselves are stunning, and I was surprised by all the trees, even though I knew they'd be there. The trees are short, and while the foliage isn't too dense, it is an honest to god forest, contrasting against the desert below. If you have the right vehicle, or are willing to backpack up from Charcoal Kilns, Mahogany Flats looked like a really stunning campground as well, with both tree cover and views of the Sierras and the valley below. Seems like this area isn't too much of a secret anymore though, since Mahogany, Thorndike, and even Wildrose all filled up over the long weekend. There are definitely some spots you could backcountry camp on Telescope as well, though I hear it gets extremely windy at times. Wildrose Peak I think you could take or leave. I'll say this about though: still great views or Death Valley and the Sierras (though not Panamint Valley). Great views of Wildrose Canyon. And you hike through a lot of this scrubby forest so it's an interesting, close up view of this unique biome. As mentioned too, doing it the day before Telescope really helped me acclimatize.
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jdlp
Trail Wise!
SoCal hiker and backpacker, occasional kayaker, looking to explore
Posts: 61
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Post by jdlp on Jun 7, 2017 10:40:08 GMT -8
whistlepunk and rebeccad you both are definitely pushing the needle a bit more toward Lassen vs Great Basin. Other factors are that I've never been to a volcano, and it's about 300 miles less driving than Great Basin. I need to follow up with their visitor center, but when I called they said at least some of the major roads would be open, but forgot which. Was thinking of backpacking if I went. They said nights should be around 40 degrees, and my 3-season gear should work fine. Have you guys, or anyone else done both Lassen and Great Basin? Be interested in hearing a compare and contrast.
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