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Post by thrillseeker on Sept 19, 2016 7:14:20 GMT -8
Hi all,
This is a follow up to previous inquiry re best backpacking in GSMNP in late Oct.
I'll be heading there Oct 18-23 with a few friends, all of us are in pretty decent shape (two military officers and a national team athlete). We are looking for a 3 night backpacking loop. I think I have narrowed it down to the following:
-- Welch Ridge / Forney Creek loop (camping at Silers Bald, CS 75 and CS 69(?))
-- Little River --> Goshen --> Sugarland Mtn Trail (with CS 23, Mt. Collins shelter and CS 21).
-- Hazel/Forney Creek, camping at CS 82, 75 and 69.
If I am reading the map correctly, these are all similar distances, give or take a few miles. Are there any campsites that are significantly better (or worse) than the others? Do these sites make sense given what we would be covering during the day? Also, I haven't been able to find much on the rigor of these trails. Is Hazel Creek significantly more or less arduous than Welch Trail and Sugarland Mtn? Those seem to be the biggest stretches of trail, with Clingman's to CS 82 about 13 mi (?), but mostly downhill. I haven't seen Little River/Sugarland Mtn covered much on here, so am particularly curious to hear about those.
We will be coming in from Gatlinberg. My one concern is that with the Hazel Creek loop, we would be driving about an hour to Clingmans in the AM while also covering 13 mi. Is that realistic?
We are looking basically for the most scenic route, hopefully some abandoned houses and/or mills and things of that sort, and/or nice overlooks. Any recommendations as to which of the above makes the most sense for this would be much appreciated
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Post by Swerve on Sept 19, 2016 14:13:12 GMT -8
AT, Clingman's Dome to Silers Bald. Beautiful forest, the lumber companies missed a few in there because the trees are gorgeous. Staying in shelters sucks, but you do what you hafta. AT, Silers Bald to Welch Ridge...I haven't hiked the middle of Welch Ridge, so I can't comment on that. It looks like you are planning to do Bear Creek as your connecting trail. Don't miss High Rocks on Welch Ridge...the extra little bit of mileage will be worth it, trust me. Great views. Saw wild pigs in this area, and plenty of trail that they had torn up. Bear Creek, #75 I don't remember and I didn't stay there but hiked past so I cannot comment on that but to say the guidebook says there is a picnic table there. On Forney Creek, several deep water crossings. I stayed at #69 but there is a pretty waterfall at #68. Be aware that the trek up to the top back to the AT is pretty hard, and very rocky and hard on the feet. I assume you'll hike up the bypass trail and then hit the AT back to Clingman's Dome.
Hazel Creek, lots and lots of water crossings, some deep, for the entire trail. There are probably 20 or more crossings. You will get wet. I'm not sure how many will be on the section you plan to hike. Near the top, the creek is a trickle but it grows and grows and grows! I stayed at #85 on my trek down Hazel Creek so I cannot comment on #82 other than the guidebook mentions it is the worst campsite on the Hazel Creek trail and is muddy in wet weather (I guess all that's relative). You are probably using Cold Spring Gap as your connector...if so you can hit High Rocks without the little detour.
Mt. Collins shelter is nice and has a privy. Be forewarned, it is very popular since it is so close to the road (but you have to make reservations anyway). Sugarland Mtn and Little River are pretty trails. I saw a mama bear and two cubs on Sugarland. I camped at #30...it was a little hard to get to as you had to ford the creek twice to get there (then started with two creek fords in the morning to get back). I didn't stay at #23 (the guidebook says it is good size and "pretty") or #21 (the guidebook lists this site as "odd"...it has boulders everywhere. There are spots for 3 tents) though I hiked by both. Goshen Prong has a small cave, kinda nice for a picture.
I'm not sure when fall colors are peaking in the Smokies (I suppose I could look it up but I'm lazy). I'm thinking you may want to hit the Clingman's Dome parking lot very early or you'll have trouble getting a parking space for all the tourists.
The AT is a ridge. Anytime you are hiking off that ridge you are either going up or down. So all of your hikes will be pretty much equally difficult as far as uphill/downhill. Stream crossings present a new challenge!
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Post by thrillseeker on Sept 20, 2016 12:27:35 GMT -8
AT, Clingman's Dome to Silers Bald. Beautiful forest, the lumber companies missed a few in there because the trees are gorgeous. Staying in shelters sucks, but you do what you hafta. AT, Silers Bald to Welch Ridge...I haven't hiked the middle of Welch Ridge, so I can't comment on that. It looks like you are planning to do Bear Creek as your connecting trail. Don't miss High Rocks on Welch Ridge...the extra little bit of mileage will be worth it, trust me. Great views. Saw wild pigs in this area, and plenty of trail that they had torn up. Bear Creek, #75 I don't remember and I didn't stay there but hiked past so I cannot comment on that but to say the guidebook says there is a picnic table there. On Forney Creek, several deep water crossings. I stayed at #69 but there is a pretty waterfall at #68. Be aware that the trek up to the top back to the AT is pretty hard, and very rocky and hard on the feet. I assume you'll hike up the bypass trail and then hit the AT back to Clingman's Dome. Hazel Creek, lots and lots of water crossings, some deep, for the entire trail. There are probably 20 or more crossings. You will get wet. I'm not sure how many will be on the section you plan to hike. Near the top, the creek is a trickle but it grows and grows and grows! I stayed at #85 on my trek down Hazel Creek so I cannot comment on #82 other than the guidebook mentions it is the worst campsite on the Hazel Creek trail and is muddy in wet weather (I guess all that's relative). You are probably using Cold Spring Gap as your connector...if so you can hit High Rocks without the little detour. Mt. Collins shelter is nice and has a privy. Be forewarned, it is very popular since it is so close to the road (but you have to make reservations anyway). Sugarland Mtn and Little River are pretty trails. I saw a mama bear and two cubs on Sugarland. I camped at #30...it was a little hard to get to as you had to ford the creek twice to get there (then started with two creek fords in the morning to get back). I didn't stay at #23 (the guidebook says it is good size and "pretty") or #21 (the guidebook lists this site as "odd"...it has boulders everywhere. There are spots for 3 tents) though I hiked by both. Goshen Prong has a small cave, kinda nice for a picture. I'm not sure when fall colors are peaking in the Smokies (I suppose I could look it up but I'm lazy). I'm thinking you may want to hit the Clingman's Dome parking lot very early or you'll have trouble getting a parking space for all the tourists. The AT is a ridge. Anytime you are hiking off that ridge you are either going up or down. So all of your hikes will be pretty much equally difficult as far as uphill/downhill. Stream crossings present a new challenge! WOW that was helpful, thanks very much. We are going to go the Little River Route, mostly because I think one person in our party is wary of getting wet and we want to ensure everyone has a good time. But this is great intel for future trips as well. Thanks so much for taking the time to type out a thorough review! |
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Post by Swerve on Sept 21, 2016 13:31:51 GMT -8
You'll have a great time!
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Post by kevinumberger on Sept 23, 2016 7:58:37 GMT -8
that little river route would be easier starting at the top and going downhill....
thats a decent climb...
also, CS 21 is prone to being close down due to bears (along with mt collins) so keep an eye on that...
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Post by kevinumberger on Sept 23, 2016 8:01:38 GMT -8
and 23 is a very nice site, imo......
really dug it there...
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FamilySherpa
Trail Wise!
Tangled up in Rhododendron
Posts: 1,791 
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Post by FamilySherpa on Sept 23, 2016 11:21:57 GMT -8
and 23 is a very nice site, imo...... really dug it there... It doesn't get the glory that the gregory bald site or hazel creek sites do, but 23 is probably my favorite site in the whole park. It is completely devoid of all firewood (unless a dead tree has recently fallen), so you don't have to worry about a knucklehead rolling into camp & putting flaming hot ashes all over your rain fly.  And like kevin said, the uphill slog from 23 to the AT is a doooooozy.  |
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Post by kevinumberger on Sept 24, 2016 11:26:34 GMT -8
if you want a really interesting side trip outta CS 23-----(and of course i cant remember name and dont have a topo in front of me)----but theres enough of a manway to go up to where the old site 25 is........
the manway follows that branch that goes to the west just off the main creek....
the old site if maybe 3/4 of mile up there......
theres an old railroad bridge thats kinda but not really still there.........
and some old homesites....
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null
Trail Wise!
Posts: 578
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Post by null on Sept 26, 2016 10:51:30 GMT -8
I stayed at #69 but there is a pretty waterfall at #68. I know the point is moot, but #68 (either of them) is better than #69. There's a lower #68, a grassy clearing or the upper #68 by the falls. Either one is nicer than #69. Plus, there's not much elevation change between 69 and 68. The real climbing starts at 68 so you might as well get a jump on it by staying there. |
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Post by kevinumberger on Sept 27, 2016 6:28:52 GMT -8
awwwww man....
everyone always puts down CS 69 but i kinda dug it there....
i had a grand time there a few years ago....
and i had the site that was right on the trail.....
the sites up on the hill were taken but they looked to be nice.....
i have not stayed at the lower 68 though.......
the upper 68 is really nice with a rock bench to sit on and watch the waterfall.....
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