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Post by snowman626 on Apr 19, 2016 20:04:33 GMT -8
My wife, daughter, and I are taking a week long vacation to Glacier NP in mid-June. We're going to be mostly day hiking with possibly one over nighter along with some rafting and horseback riding. I know hikerjer is from Montana and I'm hoping we have some others that are familiar with that area. We're staying in Kalispell but spending most of our time in the park. Any suggestions on specific trails we can hike or other sites/activities to consider? We're all experienced hikers and can handle strenuous hikes, even in the Rockies. Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated!
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Post by Grizzly James on Apr 20, 2016 7:17:12 GMT -8
Ah yes. The fact of the matter is about Glacier National Park, is that any place you open your eyes in that park, any place you set foot, is probably prettier than any place you've ever been. It is jaw dropping. Why you can be standing there looking at the scenery and suddenly notice you're breath has been halted in its tracks. Not because you're horribly out of shape or anything, but from the sheer, stunning, breath-taking scenery. It is a magnificent park to behold. And I really don't think you could screw up and take a wrong hike there.
Even so, a few of my favorites would be: the trail over Gun Sight Pass. Any trail in the Logan Pass area. And the one up to Grinnell Glacier was rather intoxicating, I must say. Don't know if that glacier even exists anymore, since the last time I was there. Anyways.
Anyways, enjoy. Glacier is one of my very favorite places on the planet. Mine heart cannot divine beauty more resplendent than from which the lovely contours you shall roam afoot there. I encourage you to get there early, and take your time with it. Stop often. Gawk with open mouths. And let the landscape work its magic into the tender recesses of your soul. Amen.
GJ
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Apr 20, 2016 7:40:10 GMT -8
Pretty much what GJ says  Grinnell Glacier was still there, but pretty small, in 2010 when we were there (well, my husband was there. I was down below, gasping and wheezing over a mile or two, due to a touch of pneumonia). Hiking the Rockwall is de rigeur, and beyond that--like he says, darn near any trail. Take the boats across the lakes and hike from the ends of them. Not only does that get you a jump start on the backcountry, but the boat rides are fun. If you are staying in Kalispell, your biggest challenge will be getting to trails before mid-day. Personally, I'd recommend camping at least some nights, but there's a caveat there, too: it can be hard to get campsites. You have to be on the spot early (like 9 a.m.) and patient. That can eat into your hiking time, obviously. There may be a campground you can reserve? I don't recall, but my memory is that most you cannot. |
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Post by hikerjer on Apr 20, 2016 16:41:48 GMT -8
Grinnell Glacier is great but very crowded. It's one of the most popular hikes in the park for good reason. The Highline Trail at 11.4 miles is a classic but also crowded and requires a shuttle which is no problem since the park has an excellent shuttle system. In my personal opinion, the best hiking is in the Many Glacier area on the east side of the park, a long way from Kalispell. I'd recommend the Ptarmigan Tunnel hike in that area along with Grinnell Glacier. If you're up for long but really spectacular hikes I would suggest two that you simply can not go wrong with. First at about 20 miles is the Gunsight Pas trail. Absolutely fantastic and a must do. A long day, of course, but certainly worth it. Again, it would require a shuttle from the starting point at the Gunsight Pass trail head on the east side of the divide and then you'd exit at the Lake McDonald Lodge trail head. Another just incredible hike is the 8 to 9 mile hike over Dawson Pass. Absolutely worth it a with tremendous hiking along a high ridgeline with a wonderful views and it's a perfect loop. Now, for my all time favorite and toughest nontechnical hike, IMO, in the park - the Floral Park route. About 23 miles, half of it off trail and beyond description. Start at the Hidden Lake trail at Logan Pass and continue over the two divides, passing Sperry Glacier and up over Commeau Pass to the trail to McDonald Lodge. Lots of elevation gain and loss and probably 12 hours of walking,some on an actual Glacier, but so worth it. I promise you'll never forget it, but I guess that's true about all these hikes and Glacier in general. You might want to order this map and guide. It's excellent. www.hike734.com/hiking/Hope this helps. Glacier is a magic place. |
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Post by snowman626 on Apr 21, 2016 17:44:37 GMT -8
Thank you all so much for your help! I can see that this is going to be a very memorable and amazing trip. Everything I've heard about Glacier has been extremely positive and I have a feeling we'll never want to leave! Thanks again for your input and your suggestions. I'm already looking into many of them!
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whistlepunk
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Post by whistlepunk on Apr 22, 2016 8:51:47 GMT -8
Had an epic trip a few years ago. Paddled up lower and upper Kintla lakes, stashed the canoe, and hiked over the pass, exiting at Bowman lake. Grabbed our previously stashed bikes and pedalled back to our vehicle at Kintla. Then hiked up to upper Kintla and paddled back. Fantastic trip.
Another time we biked the highway, after it was plowed but still closed to traffic. That also was fun, and much better than dodging cars and sucking fumes. Want to do the same at Yellowstone.
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Woodsie
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Post by Woodsie on Apr 22, 2016 12:24:58 GMT -8
The best backpacking trip I ever had was in Glacier. Like Grizzly James said, you can't go wrong anywhere in the park. You can make campground reservations at the St. Mary's campground, although this late it may already be full. Many Glacier campground starting taking reservations this year, but they are full (I already tried it). They do have half of their campsites that are first come, first served, but like Rebecca said, you'd have to be there early and be patient. Glacier is truly amazing and breathtaking. There will probably still snow around when you are there, so you might want to take Yak Trax or similar traction devices. And don't forget your bear spray  |
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Post by hikerjer on Apr 22, 2016 15:58:25 GMT -8
One thing about campgrounds. While it's true the park's campsites are hard to snag, there are all kinds of private and forest service campgrounds on the periphery of the park. I've been in FS campgrounds along the Hungry Horse Reservoir just west of the park that were almost deserted when the park's campgrounds were absolutely full. Don't fail to check them out.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Apr 23, 2016 8:47:09 GMT -8
Good point, Jer. And we stayed at a private campground in West Glacier that was set up just like a good NP campground--sites were individual, in the trees--not your standard parking lot-style RV park. So not all private campgrounds are second best (and they do tend to have showers!).
For me, the worst thing about campgrounds when we were there was the smoke. Hundreds of people building "campfires" that smoked incessantly. It dang near killed me.
We were also able to get a walk-up backpacking permit (next-day), mostly by not being too fussy about where. We researched a number of trails within our reach, and took what was available. There were 3 designated sites at Cracker Lake, and only 2 were occupied that night (I'm not sure, but I think GNP pretty much insists on camping in designated backcountry sites with bear poles).
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ecocentric
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Post by ecocentric on Apr 24, 2016 7:23:38 GMT -8
It is all good, with lots of opportunity to see wildlife, but the road that follows the North Fork of the Flathead, up through Polebridge is less visited and a great drive first thing in the morning or in the evening. There are lots of good hikes along the lake lakes there, as someone mentioned earlier. The forest is pretty impressive, and there are some old burns that provide good habitat for wildlife. If you are coming from the west, I think that the Cabinet Mountains on the State border just west of the park are a good place to camp without the crowds. Be sure to spend a day hiking around Logan Pass, you are almost sure of seeing mountain goats.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Apr 24, 2016 8:41:40 GMT -8
Eco--we were at the campground way up that road when my pneumonia got real. But yes, that's a pretty area, and Bowman lake was lovely, even for someone who couldn't manage to walk both ways from the campsite.
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Post by hikerjer on Apr 24, 2016 9:12:33 GMT -8
. Be sure to spend a day hiking around Logan Pass I probably shouldn't mention it, but if you take the Logan Pass/Hidden Lake Trail to the lake, and then continue along the north shore of the lake on the path (where the official trail ends at the lake's outlet) and continue toward the west end of the lake, you will be in the heart of one of the most spectacular spots in the entire park. Great spot for lunch and wonderful day hike. Just timber the hike out is almost al uphill at elevation. |
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Post by Campfires&Concierges on May 2, 2016 9:58:41 GMT -8
I spent a week there, dayhiking - here is a blog post about it: www.campfiresandconcierges.com/day-hikes-in-glacier-national-park/The hikes we did were all fairly short, I think, although it's been 5 years. Upper Two Medicine / No Name Lakes Trail of the Cedars / Avalanche Lake Iceberg Lake / Ice Lake St Mary's Lake / Virginia Falls Running Eagle Falls Aster Falls |
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