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Post by Coolkat on Sept 3, 2021 8:20:10 GMT -8
I know this isn't really backpacking gear but it kind of is depending on the person.
Last year I did a 4 day fall color hike and my timing was perfect. I hit peak colors and the hike was great but my problem was this. Because the mornings were often cold and wet my camera lens would often fog up and I'd fight this issue until late morning when things warmed. I'm betting that is the nature of the beast but I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts at getting around this?
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zeke
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Post by zeke on Sept 3, 2021 8:29:00 GMT -8
A backpacking trip? Car camping? B&B? I found camera lenses were highly subject to temps, so if kept inside where it was warm they fogged up more than if left in the car where they were subject to overnight temps. Next problem was the eyepiece fogging from my heat as I tried to look through it. The screens seemed to reduce that issue.
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Post by Coolkat on Sept 3, 2021 9:26:43 GMT -8
Good question. This is backpacking trip. Last year I kept the camera in the tent with me but maybe I'd better off leaving it the vestibule so the camera temp is closer to the air temp? Both my camera and lens are weather sealed so I don't have to worry about dew or anything.
I'm getting ready to a similar but longer hike this year, which reminds me I'll have to buy more batteries.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Sept 3, 2021 21:00:17 GMT -8
That kind of humidity is a bit out of my wheelhouse, but my only thought is that while keeping the camera cooler, you might want to keep the battery somewhere warm, assuming fairly chilly nights.
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Post by dayhiker on Sept 4, 2021 10:07:18 GMT -8
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franco
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Post by franco on Sept 4, 2021 15:45:31 GMT -8
I think the best way is to acclimate the camera. In very cold temps, yes keep the battery warm and insert before use. The Nikon microfiber cloth will help but you still don't want a large temp differential otherwise other lens elements can fog up.
The reason why keeping your glasses warm works is because otherwise, if cold ,our warm breath fogs them up so the ambient temp there is more or less the one ctreated by the breath. That is not the case with a camera lens.
BTW, the reason I wold not suggest many of the anti-fog products people use on goggles is because they are of a wet type that leave a greasy layer that not only may affect the lens coating but will soften the photo. The Nikon wipes are dry.
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Post by Coolkat on Sept 5, 2021 8:08:10 GMT -8
Thanks everyone I appreciate the suggestions. I'm gonna be sure to bring a lens wipe with me this year. Last year all I had was the shirt I was wearing and I was hesitant to use it not only because I wasn't sure how abrasive the material would be but also because of possible sweat and grim on it. And since my camera body and lens is weather proof I'm gonna try leaving it in the vestibule instead of in the tent with me. Not sure there will be big temp difference but it's worth a try.
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Post by dayhiker on Sept 5, 2021 8:10:01 GMT -8
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Post by Coolkat on Sept 6, 2021 7:50:39 GMT -8
Here is some thread dirft. Anyone else have progressive lenses and have issues looking through the optical view of your camera? Nothing is in focus for me anymore. They only way I can somewhat judge focus is to use the electronic view screen but that drains so much battery and I've found that using the electronic view screen that I can be a tiny bit out of focus also.
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Post by dayhiker on Sept 6, 2021 9:21:36 GMT -8
I take my glasses off and adjust the diopter until the numbers on the screen is in focus, but I am very near sighted, read better without glasses.
BTW some cameras viewfinders use more power than the screen odd. As that seems
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Post by Coolkat on Sept 6, 2021 10:26:12 GMT -8
and adjust the diopter until the numbers on the screen is in focus So... now I feel like an idiot. I didn't even know that this was a thing. I google my camera and sure it has one and it works! Thanks a ton! |
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davesenesac
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Post by davesenesac on Oct 15, 2021 15:55:23 GMT -8
Using a camera in sub freezing winter temps can be much worse. Most fogging is from breath. When I used to do 4x5 view camera work to shoot subjects like this:
I built a flexible plastic snorkle tube into my dark cloth (Thing that fits over one's head to dim ambient light in order to view the ground glass.) to breath through and exhaust humid breath out to the side. Using a digital camera is much less an issue however because breath is warm, while one's face is close to the camera, breath will immediately will rise upward to your EVF or LCD and fog it. One obvious strategy is to hold your breath. Besides a microfiber lens cloth, you could add a Giottos Pocket Rocket to blow air at wet glass surfaces that a cloth may not easily clear. When glass is especially cold, vapor from one's moist eyes and facial skin may even result in fogging if too close for too long.
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ErnieW
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Post by ErnieW on Oct 15, 2021 17:01:31 GMT -8
Condensation occurs on a colder surface that cools the air. This is true as far as I know but means that you should maybe take your camera into your bag in the morning to warm it up. I would think the condensation is from the camera lagging in being cooler than the increasing air temp. I have heard for below freezing you do want to cool your camera but warm the batteries. There is a lot less moisture in the air and cooling lenses can have optical aberrations through the large difference from indoor to below freezing until they stabilize. But I am no expert here. |
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Post by bradmacmt on Oct 16, 2021 6:27:47 GMT -8
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Nov 28, 2021 0:44:33 GMT -8
An odd thing I’ve never encountered. The camera must have been colder than the air around it to condense out moisture. Breathing on it would definitely have been a problem. While Nordic skiing I’ve long practiced what I’d heard called “cold soaking”, meaning I kept my camera gear in the outside cold so it was all at the temperature it was being used in, the one exception are power sourses, batteries stay warm.
The absolute death was when anyone having been out all day would come inside with an exposed camera: instant frost over! For going inside with gear sticking it in a plastic bag and removing all the air while outside in the dry cold works. Moisture will condense on the cold bag, but that’s off the gear and harmless.
For your situation warm gear would have fended off the moisture I expect. Maybe paired with the bag trick at the end of the day so you could rewarm everything either inside or at the foot of your sleeping bag.
But, always, don’t breath on your gear.
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