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Post by SaltyBoots on Jan 18, 2016 14:25:08 GMT -8
My husband and I, along with my brother and his girlfriend - in our 20s and 30s - will be traveling to Salt Lake City June 23-July 4. I realize this is a little early in summer to plan a backpacking trip in these mountains, but due to work schedules, this is when we are going. We've done a lot of hiking and camping before, but are planning to backpack for the first time this trip. I'd like to share what we have roughly come up with as a plan and see if anyone has any suggestions that could help. We probably don't want to do more than 3 nights at a time in the backcountry, since this is a first for us, so we plan to do 2 separate backpacking trips, with some 'regular camping' in between. We also plan to stick to out-of-the-park backpacking to avoid permit hassles and have the freedom to choose where to set up camp each night. Basically we are really excited to backpack in the Wind River Range, but only want to do 3 nights MAX, so we are looking how else to fill the 10 days without driving more than 5-6 hours in any given day. Here's what I've come up with so far.:
Fly into Salt Lake City, pick up rental car, head towards Pinedale, Wyoming
3 nights in the Wind River Range - I still have a lot of research to do on this - right now, considering going in form Big Sandy Trailhead. Any suggestions as to why another starting point might be better?
Over the next 2-3 days, make our way north, quickly exploring Grand Teton and Yellowstone, staying in campgrounds. I realize that most people will say we need way more time here. But this wasn't meant to be a Yellowstone trip, it's a first-time backpacking trip, and we mostly want to see the mountains.
End with a 1 or 2 night trip into either the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness or another area of Southern Montana.
Drive back to SLC to fly home.
Here's what I need help with:
- Suggestions on a 3-4 day trail for the end of this trip? We originally had planned to get up to Glacier, but have decided that the trip just isn't long enough to include that much driving. But for 4 Floridians who have NEVER been out West, any mountains are going to be amazing to us. (We've only been to the Appalachians). We'd really like to see Montana, but also don't want to venture too far from SLC - trying to stay within a 5-6 hours drive back.
- Suggestions on adventures other than hiking in Yellowstone/GT- rafting, kayaking, biking, etc - any where in this general area? These days will our 'relaxed' days in between the two backpacking trips. But at the same time we have no interest in standing with the crowds to watch Old Faithful. We feel like we can save a lot of that for a trip back someday with kids.
- What are your thoughts on our timeline (last week of June)? I've read that the trails could be still covered, or they could completely open. In the case that there is too much snow, are there enough trail options to stick to lower trails in the Wind River Range and still have a good time? Or would it be a complete waste, in which case I should plan my entire 'Plan B' route as going south from SLC and doing the desert instead? (we don't want to do this, but also realize it wouldn't be a terrible trip if we have to.) We are from Florida, so we have no real snow experience (but would like to gain some, under safe conditions).
- Any campgrounds anywhere within our range that are worth planning a night at- views, private sites, no RVs, etc? Also, BLM land is new to us as well, so I know there are a lot of options there, but I have no idea where to even start researching those.
Any help would be great! We've all 4 been camping and hiking our entire lives, and are REALLY excited to backpack for the first time. We've been shopping for gear for months now and think that Wind River is going to be a great first experience!
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Post by hikerjer on Jan 18, 2016 16:28:38 GMT -8
The Beartooths would be great but the end of June can be real iffy. You'll definitely run into snow, especially in the higher elevations so much so that you'd want to be equipped for winter camping. So far, this has been a low snow year but it's early and the big storms in the AB come in the spring. Still, you might be OK. Hard to say, but be prepared for snow and questionable weather.
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Post by swimswithtrout on Jan 18, 2016 16:30:19 GMT -8
My husband and I, along with my brother and his girlfriend - in our 20s and 30s - will be traveling to Salt Lake City June 23-July 4. I realize this is a little early in summer to plan a backpacking trip in these mountains, but due to work schedules, this is when we are going. We've done a lot of hiking and camping before, but are planning to backpack for the first time this trip. I'd like to share what we have roughly come up with as a plan and see if anyone has any suggestions that could help. 3 nights in the Wind River Range - right now, considering going in form Big Sandy Trailhead. Any suggestions as to why another starting point might be better? Over the next 2-3 days, make our way north, quickly exploring Grand Teton and Yellowstone, staying in campgrounds. End with a 1 or 2 night trip into either the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness or another area of Southern Montana. What are your thoughts on our timeline (last week of June)? I've read that the trails could be still covered, or they could completely open. In the case that there is too much snow, are there enough trail options to stick to lower trails in the Wind River Range and still have a good time? Or would it be a complete waste, in which case I should plan my entire 'Plan B' route as going south from SLC and doing the desert instead? Any help would be great! We've all 4 been camping and hiking our entire lives, and are REALLY excited to backpack for the first time. We've been shopping for gear for months now and think that Wind River is going to be a great first experience! As you seem to have done some research,and know the issues, late June is more than likely going to be a washout for backpacking. Unless the Rockies get an incredibly low snowpack this winter, and with the big El Niño, it "could" happen, the snow will be too deep to get more than a few miles into the Winds, even from Big Sandy which is one of the earliest trailheads to melt out. Compounding the snow on the trails, unlike "Back East", the are very few/ no bridges across the streams, and with all of the snowmelt going on at that time of year, wading the river crossings can be extremely hazardous. You could stick to your itinerary, but I'd keep the backpacking on the backburner and just plan on dayhiking as far as you can get in from Big Sandy. Likewise, the prime areas of the Beartooth's will all be buried in snow. The Desert, is also not really a good option at that time either, being blast furnace hot during the day. If backpacking is your goal, you might want to look towards SW Colorado/ N New Mexico. You'll also have access to the portions of higher desert like Mesa Verde NP |
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Post by SaltyBoots on Jan 18, 2016 16:40:23 GMT -8
Well, that's not good news. I was thinking there was at least a chance that the snow would be gone enough to make it work. I'll still keep hoping, but it looks like I might need a pretty back up plan. At least I have a good 5 months to work things out, but hopefully I won't have to ditch the backpacking plans altogether. Guess there's nothing to do but wait and see. Thanks for the input!
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Post by swimswithtrout on Jan 18, 2016 19:05:58 GMT -8
You're still going to need your BP'g gear, wherever you plan on camping, even in Yellowstone or the Tetons. If you do decide on The Winds, you could still car-camp at the Big Sandy TH and attempt the dayhike up to the Deep Lk Cirque or Jackass Pass to see the Cirque of the Towers. Going beyond Jackass Pass will definitely require some experience hiking on steep snow.
The San Juan Range in Colorado or the Sangre de Christo's in New Mexico would fit your bill. There is a good probability that the West Slope of the Sangre de Christo's in Colorado will allow at least an overnighter or two as well.
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Post by SaltyBoots on Jan 19, 2016 4:31:01 GMT -8
If I could move the trip to July 9-18 would that make enough of a difference to be worth losing a couple days in trip length?
Thanks for the suggestions, very helpful!
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Post by trekkerman on Jan 19, 2016 19:52:53 GMT -8
I live in Pinedale. Drive to Big Sandy TH. Walk 5.5 miles to Big Sandy Lake. Camp. That day, or next, hike down range two miles to Deep Lake. Suck in the view. Return to Big Sandy Lake. Spend night. Hike up Jackass Pass to see legendary Cirque of Towers and return to Big Sandy Lake. Camp. Hike out to TH, drive to Pinedale, shower at Pinedale Aquatic Center. Drink beer and eat pubfood at Wind River Brewery. Get motel in Pinedale. Snow may or may not be an issue.
Enjoy
Ric in Pinedale, WY
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Post by swimswithtrout on Jan 20, 2016 7:57:00 GMT -8
If I could move the trip to July 9-18 would that make enough of a difference to be worth losing a couple days in trip length? Absolutely ! |
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Post by trekkerman on Jan 20, 2016 20:00:00 GMT -8
Delay a week. It makes all the difference. Trust me. I live in Pinedale. Get motel reservations. NOW! Pinedale is NOT a sleepy little town in the summer. Two recommendations: The Rivera Lodge or Log Cabin Motel. Both are charming in town motels.
Ric in Pinedale
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Post by SaltyBoots on Jan 21, 2016 4:34:46 GMT -8
OK, so I convinced the group to push it pack, so we will now be there for July 8-18! Our flight arrives in Salt Lake City around noon, so I'm hoping to have our car and be on the road by 2. What time dos it get dark in July? Would it be possible to get to the trailhead and camp there before dark? Google tells me it's 4 hours to PInedale, but i'm not sure how long to the trailhead from there. I've read it's a dirt road most of the way, so I'm guessing it's going to add at least another hour? If it's too much for one day, are there any good campgrounds around Pinedale, or somewhere in between there and SLC? We are looking to avoid hotels the entire trip, since we are going to the trouble of flying with camping gear.
I'm getting a little ahead of myself, seeing I have 6 months to figure all this out, but I'm excited lol. Thank you SO much for your help, everyone!
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zeke
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Post by zeke on Jan 21, 2016 5:34:34 GMT -8
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Post by swimswithtrout on Jan 21, 2016 19:29:06 GMT -8
Might I also suggest you are trying to do far too much on one trip....
Since you have your heart set on the Wind's, (for good reason I might say), but coming from a sea level location, you're going to need a bit of time to acclimate before you try anything "at altitude".
I "used to live in Pinedale", and as I already recommended, and Trekkerman as well, start with the short BP to Big Sandy Lk as a base camp. Then dayhike to Deep Lk and then up to Jackass Pass. This is the one and ONLY overnight hike that can get remotely close to the essence of the Wind's.
Pack out from Big Sandy, drive up to the Elkhart Pk TH and hike to Island Lk/Titcomb Gorge, arguably the most stunning location in the Winds and better than many NP's. It is THE absolute "Must Do" hike in the Wind's !! It will take 2 days to get there. Spend one day to soak in the scenery, and then hike out. You should be able to hike out in one day.
If you have time left after that, drive up to the Tetons, wave at them, then drive back to SLC.
You need to decide if you want to spend your whole time behind the wheel of the car, never hiking more than a few miles off the road so you can get to your next destination to cram it all in and miss all of the sights you came out see, or do you really want to go "Backpacking" ?
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trinity
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Post by trinity on Jan 22, 2016 8:32:20 GMT -8
Might I also suggest you are trying to do far too much on one trip.... Since you have your heart set on the Wind's, (for good reason I might say), but coming from a sea level location, you're going to need a bit of time to acclimate before you try anything "at altitude". I "used to live in Pinedale", and as I already recommended, and Trekkerman as well, start with the short BP to Big Sandy Lk as a base camp. Then dayhike to Deep Lk and then up to Jackass Pass. This is the one and ONLY overnight hike that can get remotely close to the essence of the Wind's. Pack out from Big Sandy, drive up to the Elkhart Pk TH and hike to Island Lk/Titcomb Gorge, arguably the most stunning location in the Winds and better than many NP's. It is THE absolute " Must Do" hike in the Wind's !! It will take 2 days to get there. Spend one day to soak in the scenery, and then hike out. You should be able to hike out in one day. If you have time left after that, drive up to the Tetons, wave at them, then drive back to SLC. You need to decide if you want to spend your whole time behind the wheel of the car, never hiking more than a few miles off the road so you can get to your next destination to cram it all in and miss all of the sights you came out see, or do you really want to go "Backpacking" ? Agree. I have never been to this part of the country in mid July, but I expect Yellowstone and Grand Teton are going to be overrun. I wouldn't go anywhere near either of those two places at the very height of the summer tourist season. Since you want to avoid hotels, you could drive from SLC to the Green River north of Pinedale. There are a couple of Forest Service campgrounds and innumerable pulloff areas where you can pitch a tent. You could spend a few days exploring along the river by car, and take a dayhike out of the Green River Lakes trailhead, this would give you some time to acclimate before trying to shoulder a backpack. Then follow Swimswithtrout's suggestions for a couple of great expeditions. Here is a link to a trip report from this past September which included quite a bit of time in Titcomb Basin: Winds TR |
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Post by absarokanaut on Jan 23, 2016 8:51:11 GMT -8
I have a fraction of the Westside Winds experience these men do; in short when I get asked I direct folks to our forums because SWT and other great folks have given us a colossal guidebook over the years. This is some great country, but don't expect it to be less "crowded" than the parks. Cascade Canyon might be the most hiked trail in Wyoming but canyons just to the south might not have hikers a given summer day The Winds are the backpacking mecca of the known universe; but you will find a magnificent measure of solitude even among the popular yet iconic and far more than worth it locations.
Trinity,
You know me as Double Cabin so you know my devil's advocacy here is respectful. I live in the Jackson, WY area and often hike alone; the length of the day. The relatively benign and rarely visited stretch of the Continental Divide in the Southern Absaroka is my favorite place on earth. In short Grand Teton and Yellowstone are less than three million acres of the nearly twenty million acres of Greater Yellowstone; there's a lot of spectacular solitude.
Salty,
Although I don't backpack much at all in recent years I've got a lot of experience in this area. I know a lot of great trips and hundreds of exquisite day hikes in the Southern Absaroka, Northeastern Winds, Gros Ventre, and Tetons. Last June I went to the best new place [for me] in the Salt River Range which is also SPECTACULAR. It's not Montana, but I guarantee you wouldn't be unhappy focusing on the Southern end of the GYE with the one exception of maybe staying one night in/near Cooke City or Gardner. If one wants to see why we have the greatest mammalian habitat in the Temperate Zone one should not miss Northern GTNP and the Lamar Valley at dawn or dusk.You could also drive the Beartooth to the turn around spot. Cooke City, Chico Hot Springs, the best of Montana looks back into Wyoming. Brad and my other friends there know I kid.
I'll also be happy to clue you in to some of the most magical boondocking ["car" camping] there is. We have two "Natural" Foods and two chain supermarkets here in Jackson. Just make sure you learn all bear safety protocols and be bear safe.
Any way I can help you out let me know. You're gonna have an amazing time and keep coming back to spend your money forevah. Happy dreams,
John
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Post by trekkerman on Jan 23, 2016 17:06:55 GMT -8
It will take you six hours to reach Big Sandy TH from the SLC airport. Slow down! Enjoy the experience. I agree with Swimswithtrout. Embrace in the Winds! Any first time backpack there will be a lifetime memory. Drive to Big Sandy or Elkhart TH and/or Pinedale via Kemmerer. Not through Rock Springs. It's quicker. There's a BLM campground at Fontenele Reservoir just north of Kemmerer. Also camping at Elkhart TH, and Big Sandy TH. Camping also available USFS campground near Pinedale at Half Moon Lake.(Fremont Lake USFS CG is closed because dysfunctional USFS can't get their shit together to get it open. This summer will be fourth year closed.} Big grocery store in Pinedale. also Grreat Outdoor shop in Pinedale has fuel, fishing licenses etc. Frankly if I was in our shoes I'd backpack out of Elkhart 3 days, backpack out of Big Sandy 1-2 days. Head up to Jackson, Drive by the Tetons and call it a trip. (Jackson is not in Wyoming. It's in Disneyland, but the Teton are impressive.
Trekkerman
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