|
Post by flyinion on Jan 7, 2016 13:50:59 GMT -8
Hi guys, could use some sleeping pad advice. I need something that really just covers 3 seasons (i.e. no hard winter/snow for the moment). For me I need a 25" wide pad minimum (have figured that out testing a few widths at REI). Where I'm not sure which way to go is I also do a lot of car camping. I used to use a cheap coleman air matress for that but within a couple uses it no longer holds air so I've figured out it's time to move to something a bit more long lasting (hopefully). I don't have any kind of pad at all right now as I'm just getting ready for my first backpacking trip in decades this year.
My plan was to get a 25" wide air pad of some kind for backpacking and a 25-30" wide and 3-4" thick self inflating foam type for the car camping (tent is too short in height to really use a cot). One of the main reasons for this thought was I can get a bigger and more luxurious pad for car camping where I don't have to worry about weight or size and with the foam, if I get a leak, I'm not on the ground, and I figured it might be overall more durable than an air only pad. However, I don't really know much about overall durability of either.
Would it be better use of my money to just get one high quality 25" air pad? Also for R value I was thinking somewhere between 3-6 for 3 season use (early-mid spring to early-mid fall in CA Sierras and similar). I do have an old closed cell foam pad I can place under to add more insulation in colder weather.
|
|
|
Post by High Sierra Fan on Jan 7, 2016 14:01:50 GMT -8
|
|
|
Post by flyinion on Jan 7, 2016 15:33:17 GMT -8
Thanks, yes the ProLite Plus was my original contender for backpacking in the long size which gives me the 25" width. Then after some reading I thought it might be better to go with an air pad for backpacking since they are lighter and smaller (I think?). Also that would give me more thickness since the air pads usually are thicker since I like to sleep on my side a lot.
LOL @ the two room tent, yes we almost ended up with one of those, the REI 6 person one, but ended up with the REI 6 person that is a dome style because it was on sale for cheaper. I only take that for when my wife is along. If it's just some friends and I it's a REI Passage 2 that I picked up last Labor Day sales. I haven't used it yet other than to set up, but it's going to be my "solo" car camping tent and will be my backpacking tent as well.
|
|
tigger
Trail Wise!
Posts: 2,547
|
Post by tigger on Jan 7, 2016 16:59:40 GMT -8
I own the Prolite Plus - One of my favorite mattresses. Once you get to a certain thickness, more is not needed. Weight, R-Value and size when compressed down all are factors to consider. I also have a Thermarest NeoAir XLite as well. The large one is 2.5" thick, full length with 25" width, 1 lb, and an R-Value of 3.2 and compresses down smaller than my 3/4 Prolite Plus.
|
|
|
Post by flyinion on Jan 7, 2016 17:20:10 GMT -8
Thanks, yeah I was looking at the NeoAir line for a backpacking pad. I was thinking about maybe the NeoAir Trekker. Similar R value and packed size, but about $40 cheaper in the 25" wide version. Only 3 vs. 10oz lighter than the Prolite Plus though.
|
|
tigger
Trail Wise!
Posts: 2,547
|
Post by tigger on Jan 7, 2016 17:49:30 GMT -8
It gets to a point where you'll consider that extra 7oz as being a big deal and regret not spending the extra $40. I know it sounds crazy now...but it will eat at you. I've currently got eight mattresses and I'm a cheapskate. However, my 26 lb winter pack loaded with food and beer tells me that my investment was worth it. 7 oz for $40 is worth the money - cheap in comparison to some of the other ways you'll shave weight. I wish I had just invested the money in the first place vs. getting a slightly more expensive lighter more compressible mattress in the first place.
|
|
|
Post by JRinGeorgia on Jan 7, 2016 20:27:19 GMT -8
What about the XLite? That would save almost three-quarters of a pound with nearly the same R value compared to the Prolite Plus. It's crinkly, doesn't bother some people but drives others crazy, so test it first.
You said you tested a few widths "at" REI -- meaning you lay on them for a minute in the store or you bought them from REI and tried a couple of full nights on them camping or even at home? I'm a side sleeper who switches sides during the night and thought I would absolutely need a wide pad, the 20" just looked too narrow, but I tried it and got used to it pretty easily. YMMV, but my point is that if you want to save even more weight then consider any pad you look at in a regular vs. long/wide size. And that's one instance where choosing the lighter option will cost less money. With REI's return policy you could test drive a regular width pad and see if it works for you.
|
|
|
Post by flyinion on Jan 7, 2016 21:12:44 GMT -8
What about the XLite? That would save almost three-quarters of a pound with nearly the same R value compared to the Prolite Plus. It's crinkly, doesn't bother some people but drives others crazy, so test it first. You said you tested a few widths "at" REI -- meaning you lay on them for a minute in the store or you bought them from REI and tried a couple of full nights on them camping or even at home? I'm a side sleeper who switches sides during the night and thought I would absolutely need a wide pad, the 20" just looked too narrow, but I tried it and got used to it pretty easily. YMMV, but my point is that if you want to save even more weight then consider any pad you look at in a regular vs. long/wide size. And that's one instance where choosing the lighter option will cost less money. With REI's return policy you could test drive a regular width pad and see if it works for you. By testing I mean laying on them for a few minutes each at REI. I am going after the 25" vs. 20" because when I tried the 20's, laying on my back my arms hang off and it's just "weird". I guess I have a broad frame or something (wide shoulders). I'm going to try various widths again before actually buying however and I've lost more weight since I tried pads back around Aug/Sept. so maybe I can get away with a narrower one now but I doubt it.
|
|
|
Post by High Sierra Fan on Jan 7, 2016 22:01:54 GMT -8
" when I tried the 20's, laying on my back my arms hang off and it's just "weird". "
"Also that would give me more thickness since the air pads usually are thicker since I like to sleep on my side a lot. "
but if you're a side sleeper though testing the pads while on your back would be misleading as to what you'll feel when you really use it.
As a thought.
|
|
jazzmom
Trail Wise!
a.k.a. TigerFan
Posts: 3,060
|
Post by jazzmom on Jan 8, 2016 6:57:17 GMT -8
After a lot of trial and error, I've settled on 2 pads and a cot for 3+ season backpacking and car-camping that I'm really happy with: - Prolite Plus, R-value 4.2 (women's version has higher R-values), 20oz - Sea to Summit 'Ultralight Insulated Mat', R-value 3.3, 15oz (66")
I'm not a winter backpacker, and use the Sea to Summit for pretty much all of my backpacking. It's not the lightest (I do have an XLite that I never use anymore) but it's super comfortable, a bit wider than the XLite (spec width is 21.5") and I don't worry if it's cooler out than I'd expected. I really love this pad.
The Prolite Plus is probably my favorite pad. It's durable and half the price of the latest-and-lightest air pads. I use it for car-camping/base-camp. I used it to top my cot in the big family tent for warmth/comfort.
RE 20" vs 25" widths. If you're looking at an air-mattress like an XLite, there's 4oz difference between the two widths. I used to think that saving 4oz was worth a little discomfort but I also noticed that I was on a never-ending quest for that perfect pad. My BP pad is 5oz heavier than the lightest pad I had but I'm much happier with this one and I've stopped looking at pads...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2016 7:15:42 GMT -8
For winter camping, I choose something like a RidgeRest. I found a self inflating, on top of the RidgeRest is not really needed; wanted perhaps.
I would not use a pad that I blow air into for winter. The condensation from my breath into a sleeping pad may freeze. The frozen condensation contains ice crystals, which are sharp. The sharp ice crystals impact upon the sleeping pad, from the inside.
|
|
almostthere
Trail Wise!
putting on my hiking shoes....
Posts: 696
|
Post by almostthere on Jan 8, 2016 8:36:44 GMT -8
A 20" pad is not hard to get used to. I always sleep on my side (unless I'm in my hammock, but that is an entirely different sleep) and that makes narrower pads easier to use. What I cannot do is use a shallow pad -- 2.5 - 4" of cushion in the pads I have (four, to date - but eh, I have reasons for that) and the ProLite type pads are just not adequate. I have an Exped Synmat that's 25" wide, and it's quite nice, but the ultimate cush is the Q Core (not the orange one, the original gray one) at 4" deep and rated to 15F. Heavy as sin. Twenty inches wide, but that doesn't matter. If I do happen to roll on my back for a bit, I simply lay my hands on my stomach - keeps the elbows off the ground. As does having clothes, pack, etc alongside the pad inside your tent.
For the Exped I use a pillow pump to inflate it. For the others, a little battery driven pump inflates them - it's exactly the same weight as one of those "schnozzle sacks" and requires no effort on my part other than changing the batteries every few trips. I use rechargeables.
|
|
tigger
Trail Wise!
Posts: 2,547
|
Post by tigger on Jan 8, 2016 9:10:10 GMT -8
I would not use a pad that I blow air into for winter. The condensation from my breath into a sleeping pad may freeze. The frozen condensation contains ice crystals, which are sharp. The sharp ice crystals impact upon the sleeping pad, from the inside. I'm just not seeing this as a possible issue. We spent a month out on the ice sheets of Greenland. I blew up my pad every time and I just can't imagine enough or large enough ice crystals being formed from the condensation from my breath without spitting into it and even then, that would require a serious night of drinking and maybe some upchucking into the valve to make such an impact.
|
|
|
Post by trinity on Jan 8, 2016 9:30:40 GMT -8
For winter camping, I choose something like a RidgeRest. I found a self inflating, on top of the RidgeRest is not really needed; wanted perhaps Interesting, those actually have a relatively low R-value, compared to many of the airpads. Do you stay warm on just a Ridgerest? How low, tempwise, do you go? I'm just not seeing this as a possible issue. I've never heard of this happening either. I do normally use something other than my breath to inflate my pads (instaflator or Neoair pump sack), partly because I am paranoid about moisture from my breath degrading my pad over time (pretty sure this is totally unfounded), partly because, particularly if there is a big temperature swing, the warm air from your breath when it cools down can contract in volume quite a bit, leaving you on or near the ground in the middle of the night. Tigger, did this not happen in Greenland?
|
|
|
Post by High Sierra Fan on Jan 8, 2016 9:38:30 GMT -8
"I am paranoid about moisture from my breath degrading my pad over time (pretty sure this is totally unfounded)"
Not entirely: Cascade Designs used to (and probably still does) warn about storing their pads with the valves closed for that very reason: just like a wet tent stored so as to trap the moisture, a closed valve on a pad traps the moisture and risks mold growth, which, as the microbes excrete their acids etc, causes delamination of the nonporous coating and that causes the entire surface of the pad to leak air. I suspect some of those "pinhole" leaks people get on their pads aren't pine needles or whatever but rather the results of mold growth inside where it can't easily be seen.
|
|