Post by Kevin Palmer on Jan 2, 2016 12:13:13 GMT -8
I spent Christmas visiting family in Maryland, and I wanted to squeeze in a backpacking trip before returning home. So the day after Christmas, I rented a car and drove a couple hours to Shenandoah National Park. This time of year there are no campgrounds open, and they close Skyline Drive every night between 5PM and 8AM. So backpacking is the only way you can really see the park. The entrance fee was $20 and I had to fill out a backcountry permit, but it was free. After jump starting someone's car I started hiking from Thornton Gap shortly before 2. The Appalachian Trail was spooky looking covered in a thick fog.
Lichen Trees by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
I went up to the Pinnacle for sunset. There's a great view behind there somewhere.
Foggy Pinnacle by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
Then I returned to my campsite, Byrd's Nest Shelter #3. It wasn't actually raining, but it seemed like it. The fog was condensing onto the tree branches and dripping everywhere as the wind picked up. I didn't feel like pitching my tent, so I tried staying in the shelter.
Byrd's Nest Shelter by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
The white sign on the top left is not very welcoming. It warns of possible contamination with a "stomach bug." I don't know if this is posted at all AT shelters or not. With it being one of the longest nights of the year I thought I would get plenty of sleep, but I was very wrong. As I was eating dinner I spotted the first mouse. There was a raised wooden platform with a few small holes the mouse could squeeze through. I tried blocking the holes but it was pointless, there were at least 3 other mice that lived in the roof or around the sides. After hanging my food bag, I tried my best to sleep. I had to put my sleeping bag close to the back because the front of the shelter was too wet. But the mice wouldn't stop scratching, gnawing, and scurrying. I opened my eyes and saw a mouse moving across the floor feet away from my face. Finally I realized I was not going to get any sleep unless I set up my tent.
The fog had cleared out and the wind died down. But a couple hours later the weather worsened. The winds picked up to at least 50 mph and the fog started dripping again. My tent collapsed on me twice so I gave up on sleeping. The wind stole my tent bag from inside the shelter. It took awhile to pack up and attempt to dry all the wet gear (thanks shamwow). This was by far the toughest night I've ever spent backpacking. I just hoped the sunrise would be worth it, and it was.
After 5AM I started hiking back towards Mary's Rock. The weather would change so fast, going from clear to very low visibility. On the western side of the mountains the wind still made it hard to stand.
Shenandoah Moonlight by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
For about 30 minutes before sunrise I couldn't even see 10 yards in front of me. But then the sun began to break through, and the light was incredible.
Unearthly Glow by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
Between Heaven and Earth by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
Blue Ridge Fog by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
Aside from a few people near the trailhead on Saturday, I never saw anyone else on the trail. Sunday turned out to be a beautiful day with temperatures in the 60's. I had just enough time to finish driving Skyline Drive. See more pictures from the trip here: Shenandoah National Park
Then I took an overnight train home to Illinois from Charlottesville, which was an adventure in and of itself. I never want to spend another night in a trail shelter. And I've learned my lesson about being prepared for fast weather changes and strong winds in the mountains. Next time I'll pitch my tent better.
Lichen Trees by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
I went up to the Pinnacle for sunset. There's a great view behind there somewhere.
Foggy Pinnacle by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
Then I returned to my campsite, Byrd's Nest Shelter #3. It wasn't actually raining, but it seemed like it. The fog was condensing onto the tree branches and dripping everywhere as the wind picked up. I didn't feel like pitching my tent, so I tried staying in the shelter.
Byrd's Nest Shelter by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
The white sign on the top left is not very welcoming. It warns of possible contamination with a "stomach bug." I don't know if this is posted at all AT shelters or not. With it being one of the longest nights of the year I thought I would get plenty of sleep, but I was very wrong. As I was eating dinner I spotted the first mouse. There was a raised wooden platform with a few small holes the mouse could squeeze through. I tried blocking the holes but it was pointless, there were at least 3 other mice that lived in the roof or around the sides. After hanging my food bag, I tried my best to sleep. I had to put my sleeping bag close to the back because the front of the shelter was too wet. But the mice wouldn't stop scratching, gnawing, and scurrying. I opened my eyes and saw a mouse moving across the floor feet away from my face. Finally I realized I was not going to get any sleep unless I set up my tent.
The fog had cleared out and the wind died down. But a couple hours later the weather worsened. The winds picked up to at least 50 mph and the fog started dripping again. My tent collapsed on me twice so I gave up on sleeping. The wind stole my tent bag from inside the shelter. It took awhile to pack up and attempt to dry all the wet gear (thanks shamwow). This was by far the toughest night I've ever spent backpacking. I just hoped the sunrise would be worth it, and it was.
After 5AM I started hiking back towards Mary's Rock. The weather would change so fast, going from clear to very low visibility. On the western side of the mountains the wind still made it hard to stand.
Shenandoah Moonlight by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
For about 30 minutes before sunrise I couldn't even see 10 yards in front of me. But then the sun began to break through, and the light was incredible.
Unearthly Glow by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
Between Heaven and Earth by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
Blue Ridge Fog by Kevin Palmer, on Flickr
Aside from a few people near the trailhead on Saturday, I never saw anyone else on the trail. Sunday turned out to be a beautiful day with temperatures in the 60's. I had just enough time to finish driving Skyline Drive. See more pictures from the trip here: Shenandoah National Park
Then I took an overnight train home to Illinois from Charlottesville, which was an adventure in and of itself. I never want to spend another night in a trail shelter. And I've learned my lesson about being prepared for fast weather changes and strong winds in the mountains. Next time I'll pitch my tent better.
