daveb
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Post by daveb on Jul 5, 2017 6:32:01 GMT -8
In reference to this photo, what do the numbers mean? For instance, "Owen-Spalding Route (5.4)".
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walkswithblackflies
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Post by walkswithblackflies on Jul 5, 2017 6:35:58 GMT -8
Difficulty rating of technical rock climbing (Yosemite Decimal System). Class 1: Walking with a low chance of injury, hiking boots a good idea. Class 2: Simple scrambling, with the possibility of occasional use of the hands. Little potential danger is encountered. Hiking Boots highly recommended. Class 3: Scrambling with increased exposure. Handholds are necessary. A rope should be available for learning climbers, or if you just choose to use one that day, but is usually not required. Falls could easily be fatal. Class 4: Simple climbing, with exposure. A rope is often used. Natural protection can be easily found. Falls may well be fatal. Class 5: Is considered technical roped free (without hanging on the rope, pulling on, or stepping on anchors) climbing; belaying, and other protection hardware is used for safety. Un-roped falls can result in severe injury or death. Class 5.0 to 5.15c[6] is used to define progressively more difficult free moves. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yosemite_Decimal_SystemOR: Class 1: you fall, you're stupid. Class 2: you fall, you break your arm. Class 3: you fall, you break your leg. Class 4: you fall, you are almost dead (i.e., you can't breath and move your arms, legs, and head). Class 5: you fall, you are dead. In Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills, author Ed Peters explains the subdivisions of class 5: "The experienced climber, having accomplished or attempted free climbs of varying degrees of difficulty in the YDS class 5 range, gains an understanding of the level of difficulty involved. To the beginner, however, these ratings are simply a set of numbers, understandably, easy if rated 5.0 and impossible if rated 5.13. To provide a slightly better understanding within the class for the beginner the following tongue-in-cheek description is provided: 5.0 to 5.4: There are two hand- and two footholds for every move; the holds become progressively smaller as the number increases. 5.5 to 5.6: The two hand- and two footholds are there, obvious to the experienced, but not necessarily so to the beginner. 5.7: The move is missing one hand- or foothold. 5.8: The move is missing two holds of the four, or missing only one but is very strenuous. 5.9: The move has only one reasonable hold which may be for either a foot or a hand. 5.10: No hand- or footholds. The choices are to pretend a hold is there, pray a lot, or go home. 5.11: After thorough inspection you conclude this move is obviously impossible; however, occasionally someone actually accomplishes it. Since there is nothing for a handhold, grab it with both hands. 5.12: The surface is as smooth as glass and vertical. No one has really ever made this move, although a few claim they have. 5.13: This is identical to 5.12 except it is located under overhanging rock." climber.org/data/decimal.html
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reuben
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Post by reuben on Jul 5, 2017 8:35:45 GMT -8
...and Alex Honnold recently climbed a 5.13a route on El Capitan, without any ropes or anything. That's what you call crazytown.
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walkswithblackflies
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Post by walkswithblackflies on Jul 5, 2017 9:13:34 GMT -8
Alex Honnold recently climbed a 5.13a route on El Capitan, without any ropes or anything I've free soloed 5.5-5.6 routes, so Alex and I are pretty much in the same category.
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BigLoad
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Post by BigLoad on Jul 5, 2017 9:48:19 GMT -8
Alex Honnold recently climbed a 5.13a route on El Capitan, without any ropes or anything I've free soloed 5.5-5.6 routes, so Alex and I are pretty much in the same category. I free soloed portions of the Delaware Canal Towpath yesterday. It was going pretty well until I got some gravel in my shoe.
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Hungry Jack
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Post by Hungry Jack on Jul 5, 2017 10:32:47 GMT -8
I always thought those numbers represented the number of people who died attempting those routes. Now I know better.
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walkswithblackflies
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Post by walkswithblackflies on Jul 5, 2017 12:03:26 GMT -8
I free soloed portions of the Delaware Canal Towpath yesterday. It was going pretty well until I got some gravel in my shoe. Safety first!
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reuben
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Post by reuben on Jul 5, 2017 12:38:36 GMT -8
I've free soloed 5.5-5.6 routes, so Alex and I are pretty much in the same category. I got blisters on my heels and lost two toenails a couple of years ago in Chile, so WWBF and I are pretty much in the same category. BL, I actually stopped and got some of the scree out of my shoe. Try it next time and see if it works for you. On a more serious note, if you've ever walked up to El Cap and stared up at its almost 3,000 foot vertical rise and glassy surface, you'll know how insane Alex's accomplishment is. The easy part is first - The Nose, which is almost vertical. Then it really goes vertical. Handholds become fingerholds, or fractions thereof.
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reuben
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Post by reuben on Jul 5, 2017 12:44:06 GMT -8
I free soloed portions of the Delaware Canal Towpath yesterday. Dontcha just hate when Chris Christie shuts everything down in NJ and then hogs it for himself? Oh well, PA needs your money, too.
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BigLoad
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Post by BigLoad on Jul 5, 2017 13:40:59 GMT -8
I free soloed portions of the Delaware Canal Towpath yesterday. Dontcha just hate when Chris Christie shuts everything down in NJ and then hogs it for himself? Oh well, PA needs your money, too. We did a two-fer, walking tow paths on both sides. On the Jersey side, we visited a State Park whose entrance was still swathed in police tape from being closed since Friday. It was largely still deserted since most people who canceled their plans left them canceled. The budget deal was signed after most people went to bed.
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reuben
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Post by reuben on Jul 5, 2017 15:07:31 GMT -8
We did a two-fer, walking tow paths on both sides. Dammit, Big, you can't just go back and forth like that. You're either withus or aginus! If yer gonna flip flop every time the tide turns we're gonna hafta kick you out! Of. Something. Maybe we won't let you pay taxes anymore. We'll figure it out later. But it'll be yuge. Bigly. Like you've never seen before.
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johnnyray
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Post by johnnyray on Jul 5, 2017 16:09:41 GMT -8
I can find my toilet and use it in absolute darkness without mishap, 5.16 at least.
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Post by swimswithtrout on Jul 5, 2017 17:27:14 GMT -8
5.11: After thorough inspection you conclude this move is obviously impossible; however, occasionally someone actually accomplishes it. Since there is nothing for a handhold, grab it with both hands. 5.12: The surface is as smooth as glass and vertical. No one has really ever made this move, although a few claim they have. There's a good bit of hyperbole/ sarcasm in that entire link ! I used to free-solo 5.6/5.7 routes fairly often, or even up to 5.9, if it was a "one move wonder" climb and I'd climbed it with a rope before. Even up to a couple of years ago, before my hip started to deteriorate, I could "on-sight" virtually any 5.11 up to 5.11c. 5.11 was always my favorite grade, hard enough to keep it very interesting, but not overly difficult, and needing multiple attempts to succeed. At 5.12, I don't even need to take my shoes off, to count my successful "on-sights", but after a couple of rehearsals, I could usually climb up to 12c, but that took a lot of work. I've "hang dogged" myself up a few 5.13's, just because the routes were so spectacular, it didn't matter if I could do it bottom to top in one go, but I have done all of the moves. So that table is very skewed, and with the huge growth in indoor rock gyms, MANY people are climbing harder than that . But back to the OP, anything above 3rd class, 4.0 and beyond, a fall with no rope/intermediate protection, will result in you being severely injured, or more likely dying. My 3 best HS friends and I, simil free soloed the Exum Ridge back in 1972, but we were already "roped" free climbing what are now rated 5.10/5.11, so 5.6, here and there, is a drop in the bucket
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Post by cityman on Jul 5, 2017 18:20:49 GMT -8
I once base camped next to a rather high Mountain and did not even feel any altitude sickness in the morning, even looked up to the top of the Mountain thinking that just maybe, just maybe one of these days I just might have to climb that mountain, if that counts. Ok nothing useful to add over here.
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Post by johntpenca on Jul 6, 2017 14:19:35 GMT -8
There's a good bit of hyperbole/ sarcasm in that entire link Swims - Ya think? I never could make it past the .10c grade; weekend warrior-ing pretty much limited my moving to higher grades. Bummed I could never could face a moderate .10 without getting the stage right thing. I was a slab/face climber, never got the jamming thing sorted out very well. Used to hang at Doug Robinson's place near Bishop. Met a lot o great climbers there. One summer Dale Bard stayed at Doug's and set up shop, including a 4 sided overhanging wooden climbing wall (w/ overhanging cracks at the corners) and a horizontal crack machine. That dude could jam; used watch him spend hours on those rigs with tunes coming from the bread truck. He would do laps or over an hour on the crack machine and never touch the ground. He made it look effortless, just floating along.
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