Post by GaliWalker on Feb 28, 2017 8:29:59 GMT -8
Hike #3, in my personal Top-10...
Top-10 hikes:
10: Lake Ida – Lake Edna loop (Washington)
9: Chesler Park and Druid Arch (Utah)
8: Presidential Traverse (New Hampshire)
7: Half Dome (California)
6: Pea Soup Lake (Washington)
5: Grand Canyon (Arizona)
4: Enchantments (Washington)
3: Nanga Parbat bc, Fairy Meadows (Himalayas)
2: Snow Lake (Karakorams)
1: Concordia and K2 basecamp (Karakorams)
Nanga Parbat basecamp and Fairy Meadows (8/16-18/2011)
Himalayas, Pakistan
If you have one place to visit in your life, Fairy Meadows won't be a bad choice. A lush green, forested expanse, 11,000ft high, dominated by the awe inspiring wall of Nanga Parbat, rising more than twice as high to 26,660ft. The world's ninth highest peak and the westernmost point of the Himalayas, Nanga Parbat at one point had the reputation of being the cruelest of the world's fourteen 8000m peaks. 31 people lost their lives before Hermann Buhl's legendry first ascent; the only solo first ascent of an 8000m peak; from Fairy Meadows, in 1953. All of this runs through your mind as you sit at Fairy Meadows and gaze at the gleaming, icy face of one of the big ones.
I had deliberately scheduled Fairy Meadows near the end of my Northern Areas trip in Pakistan, hoping to save the best for last. The journey had begun a week earlier, from acclimatization efforts in Nathiagali, to four nights in Kaghan Valley, in which I had experienced some truly memorable sights. Now in the hot dusty town of Chilas, located on the banks of the River Indus, elevation 4000ft, I met my guide for the next three days: Mohammad Hafiz was a young 21yr old, a native of Fairy Meadows, but currently studying electronics in the city of Rawalpindi. He also turned out to be the eldest son, and heir, of the gentleman who ran the huts in Fairy Meadows, where I was going to spend the next two nights...so, not only my guide, but also my host. The next three days were to be possibly the most memorable of my life, in large part to Hafiz.
Aug 16: Raikot Bridge to Fairy Meadows
The next morning, I got dropped off at Raikot Bridge, on the Karakorum Highway, about 1.5hrs north from Chilas. I was met here by Hafiz, and we both piled into the jeep that was to take us to the village of Tatu. The jeep ride was about as scary as you can imagine. A narrow, single-track gravel road, took us steeply up the barren mountainside. Cliffs soared high on our right, and dropped many thousands of feet straight down to our left. At one point the jeep actually scraped the mountainside on our right due to the narrowness of the road. At another, we had to stop, while the driver flattened a section of the road, which a small rock slide had come down on, by shoveling the gravel away. He had us walk this section; even so the jeep tilted precariously as he made the crossing. Quite a few times, tight switchbacks forced us to back up to make the turn. 6mi and 1.5hrs later we were at Tatu, elevation ~8,500ft, where we piled out. The remaining 2.75mi to Fairy Meadows would have to be hiked.
As we walked through the outskirts of Tatu, Hafiz pointed out a vast rocky area: last year's massive floods had swept away a number of houses from this place, when the Tatu River left its banks. We picked our way through this and began to climb. I was in short sleeves, but was soon regretting it. The sun was scorching hot; hot enough that within minutes I could feel a burning sensation on my arm...the onset of sunburn. I quickly called a break and slathered on the sun-block. The weirdest part of all this was that while it was scorching hot in the sun, it was actually a bit cool in the shade. There must have been a 15-20 degree difference in temperature, a testament to the clear air and high altitude that makes the sun's rays that much hotter in this part of the world.
2hr and 10min later, we were at Fairy Meadows. Hafiz took me to a large wooden platform, akin to a throne, and then left me alone, saying he'd be back a bit later. Green tea was served, "welcome tea" I was told. I relaxed with the cup of tea and took in the sights, or should I say sight: right in front of me was a lush green meadow, in which small cows were grazing idyllically...then a forest of tall pines...behind all of this Nanga Parbat. Clouds disappointingly cloaked the summit but pointy Ganalo Peak (21,680ft), a subsidiary peak of Nanga Parbat, took the breath away.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing in Fairy Meadows, taking in the sights. Close to sunset, in the best light, the clouds finally cleared and Nanga Parbat stood revealed in all its glory.
Aug 17: Fairy Meadows to Nanga Parbat base-camp
After taking a few sunrise shots of Nanga Parbat, Hafiz and I began our hike to Nanga Parbat's base-camp around 5:45am. Joining us were three young teenaged cousins of Hafiz. Serene forest took us to Beyal Camp, about 45min from Fairy Meadows. This is another pretty spot, that has accommodation available, but not as nice as Fairy Meadows. A little while later we were at the lip of the deep gouge, through which flowed the Raikot Glacier. God, that thing was impressive! A river of seracs, naked white ice, as well as huge portions which were covered by scree. Small, green pools nestled within the ice, where portions had melted. Raikot Peak, just to the left of the main Nanga Parbat double summit, stood at the head of this river...a long way off and a long way up.
Immediately after the Raikot Glacier overlook, we began a steep climb up and over a green hill. At the other side lay the Ganalo Glacier, which we would have to cross. This was the moment I'd been dreading, since I had no idea what lay in store. Frankly, if it was anything like the Raikot Glacier, it was going to be scary. Thankfully, the glacier was much smaller, talus and scree covered most of the ice, with only a few exposed ice sections visible. Every year, in spring, the Fairy Meadows guides chart a route through this. The crossing went without any problems, though the initial 20yds were on a narrow 'ridge', with deep, exposed fissures in the ice on either side.
After the glacier, flower-filled meadows took us up to Nanga Parbat's base-camp, elevation 13,200ft, 3hrs after starting. Hafiz had recently purchased a mule that he had left to pasture on these meadows. He and his cousins went to check on it, so I stretched myself out in the sun and drank in the magnificence of Nanga Parbat. This moment, at peace in paradise, will be with me forever.
Eventually, clouds began to gather, so we reluctantly dragged ourselves away. Just shy of Fairy Meadows, it began to hail. We just made it back, before the heavens opened. It would rain hard all evening and night.
The evening was spent swapping stories and discussing Pakistan's current problems. My favorite story was when Hafiz related how his grandfather was one of the guides who helped bring Hermann Buhl down from Camp 1, after his successful first ascent of Nanga Parbat, feet severely frostbitten. Hafiz also showed me a pair of Reinhold Messner's K2 Mountaineering Boots, which Messner had left with them some years back.
Reinhold Messner's boots
Aug 18: We walked back down to the Raikot Bridge and my waiting jeep.
Top-10 hikes:
10: Lake Ida – Lake Edna loop (Washington)
9: Chesler Park and Druid Arch (Utah)
8: Presidential Traverse (New Hampshire)
7: Half Dome (California)
6: Pea Soup Lake (Washington)
5: Grand Canyon (Arizona)
4: Enchantments (Washington)
3: Nanga Parbat bc, Fairy Meadows (Himalayas)
2: Snow Lake (Karakorams)
1: Concordia and K2 basecamp (Karakorams)
Nanga Parbat basecamp and Fairy Meadows (8/16-18/2011)
Himalayas, Pakistan
If you have one place to visit in your life, Fairy Meadows won't be a bad choice. A lush green, forested expanse, 11,000ft high, dominated by the awe inspiring wall of Nanga Parbat, rising more than twice as high to 26,660ft. The world's ninth highest peak and the westernmost point of the Himalayas, Nanga Parbat at one point had the reputation of being the cruelest of the world's fourteen 8000m peaks. 31 people lost their lives before Hermann Buhl's legendry first ascent; the only solo first ascent of an 8000m peak; from Fairy Meadows, in 1953. All of this runs through your mind as you sit at Fairy Meadows and gaze at the gleaming, icy face of one of the big ones.
I had deliberately scheduled Fairy Meadows near the end of my Northern Areas trip in Pakistan, hoping to save the best for last. The journey had begun a week earlier, from acclimatization efforts in Nathiagali, to four nights in Kaghan Valley, in which I had experienced some truly memorable sights. Now in the hot dusty town of Chilas, located on the banks of the River Indus, elevation 4000ft, I met my guide for the next three days: Mohammad Hafiz was a young 21yr old, a native of Fairy Meadows, but currently studying electronics in the city of Rawalpindi. He also turned out to be the eldest son, and heir, of the gentleman who ran the huts in Fairy Meadows, where I was going to spend the next two nights...so, not only my guide, but also my host. The next three days were to be possibly the most memorable of my life, in large part to Hafiz.
Aug 16: Raikot Bridge to Fairy Meadows
The next morning, I got dropped off at Raikot Bridge, on the Karakorum Highway, about 1.5hrs north from Chilas. I was met here by Hafiz, and we both piled into the jeep that was to take us to the village of Tatu. The jeep ride was about as scary as you can imagine. A narrow, single-track gravel road, took us steeply up the barren mountainside. Cliffs soared high on our right, and dropped many thousands of feet straight down to our left. At one point the jeep actually scraped the mountainside on our right due to the narrowness of the road. At another, we had to stop, while the driver flattened a section of the road, which a small rock slide had come down on, by shoveling the gravel away. He had us walk this section; even so the jeep tilted precariously as he made the crossing. Quite a few times, tight switchbacks forced us to back up to make the turn. 6mi and 1.5hrs later we were at Tatu, elevation ~8,500ft, where we piled out. The remaining 2.75mi to Fairy Meadows would have to be hiked.
As we walked through the outskirts of Tatu, Hafiz pointed out a vast rocky area: last year's massive floods had swept away a number of houses from this place, when the Tatu River left its banks. We picked our way through this and began to climb. I was in short sleeves, but was soon regretting it. The sun was scorching hot; hot enough that within minutes I could feel a burning sensation on my arm...the onset of sunburn. I quickly called a break and slathered on the sun-block. The weirdest part of all this was that while it was scorching hot in the sun, it was actually a bit cool in the shade. There must have been a 15-20 degree difference in temperature, a testament to the clear air and high altitude that makes the sun's rays that much hotter in this part of the world.
2hr and 10min later, we were at Fairy Meadows. Hafiz took me to a large wooden platform, akin to a throne, and then left me alone, saying he'd be back a bit later. Green tea was served, "welcome tea" I was told. I relaxed with the cup of tea and took in the sights, or should I say sight: right in front of me was a lush green meadow, in which small cows were grazing idyllically...then a forest of tall pines...behind all of this Nanga Parbat. Clouds disappointingly cloaked the summit but pointy Ganalo Peak (21,680ft), a subsidiary peak of Nanga Parbat, took the breath away.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing in Fairy Meadows, taking in the sights. Close to sunset, in the best light, the clouds finally cleared and Nanga Parbat stood revealed in all its glory.
Aug 17: Fairy Meadows to Nanga Parbat base-camp
After taking a few sunrise shots of Nanga Parbat, Hafiz and I began our hike to Nanga Parbat's base-camp around 5:45am. Joining us were three young teenaged cousins of Hafiz. Serene forest took us to Beyal Camp, about 45min from Fairy Meadows. This is another pretty spot, that has accommodation available, but not as nice as Fairy Meadows. A little while later we were at the lip of the deep gouge, through which flowed the Raikot Glacier. God, that thing was impressive! A river of seracs, naked white ice, as well as huge portions which were covered by scree. Small, green pools nestled within the ice, where portions had melted. Raikot Peak, just to the left of the main Nanga Parbat double summit, stood at the head of this river...a long way off and a long way up.
Immediately after the Raikot Glacier overlook, we began a steep climb up and over a green hill. At the other side lay the Ganalo Glacier, which we would have to cross. This was the moment I'd been dreading, since I had no idea what lay in store. Frankly, if it was anything like the Raikot Glacier, it was going to be scary. Thankfully, the glacier was much smaller, talus and scree covered most of the ice, with only a few exposed ice sections visible. Every year, in spring, the Fairy Meadows guides chart a route through this. The crossing went without any problems, though the initial 20yds were on a narrow 'ridge', with deep, exposed fissures in the ice on either side.
After the glacier, flower-filled meadows took us up to Nanga Parbat's base-camp, elevation 13,200ft, 3hrs after starting. Hafiz had recently purchased a mule that he had left to pasture on these meadows. He and his cousins went to check on it, so I stretched myself out in the sun and drank in the magnificence of Nanga Parbat. This moment, at peace in paradise, will be with me forever.
Eventually, clouds began to gather, so we reluctantly dragged ourselves away. Just shy of Fairy Meadows, it began to hail. We just made it back, before the heavens opened. It would rain hard all evening and night.
The evening was spent swapping stories and discussing Pakistan's current problems. My favorite story was when Hafiz related how his grandfather was one of the guides who helped bring Hermann Buhl down from Camp 1, after his successful first ascent of Nanga Parbat, feet severely frostbitten. Hafiz also showed me a pair of Reinhold Messner's K2 Mountaineering Boots, which Messner had left with them some years back.
Reinhold Messner's boots
Aug 18: We walked back down to the Raikot Bridge and my waiting jeep.