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Post by merendo07 on Jan 11, 2024 11:17:50 GMT -8
Hi folks,
I'm currently planning my vacation to the USA. As part of my trip, I want to go on a short backpacking trip (one week, give or take) with wild camping and I was hoping someone could suggest a suitable destination.
I've looked at the obvious choices like the JMT, PCT, CDT or AT... But a permit for most of these seems to be impossible to get a hold of. Maybe someone can suggest an alternative, in California or adjacent states? I also want to travel to western South Dakota/Wyoming, and also to New York City.
I haven't booked anything yet, but I want to travel either in June or September.
Suggestions appreciated! Thanks
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Post by Coolkat on Jan 12, 2024 5:15:24 GMT -8
I'm not from there so I can't give suggestions on location/s for a hike but I'm guessing that the people with knowledge here will tell you that if you want to hike at elevation that you should wait until September.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Jan 12, 2024 8:49:46 GMT -8
June is a very difficult month in the West—the deserts are too hot, and the higher elevations are still snowed in. So yes, I recommend September, though June might be okay in the Northeast? I’m not up on that part of the country. If you want to maintain flexibility, avoid the big-name trails and look at options that have walk-up permits or, like most of Washington, trailhead permits. For a one-week trip that’s pretty hard to beat, I can recommend the section of the PCT between Snoqualmie and Stevens passes in Washington. I did that last August, north to south—trip reports are on my blog; the first one is here. Three more at www.rebecca-douglass.com/2023/10/photo-friday-alpine-lakes-part-2.htmlAnd www.rebecca-douglass.com/2023/10/photo-friday-alpine-lakes-part-3.html www.rebecca-douglass.com/2023/10/photo-friday-alpine-lakes-part-3.htmlAnd www.rebecca-douglass.com/2023/11/photo-friday-alpine-lakes-part-4-ending.htmlAny of those might give you a sense of the area; the whole account will bring up the scourge of hiking in the west these days: wildfire smoke (which is why I like flexibility in where I go). September is a good month to hike in WA assuming things aren’t on fire, but along the PCT you do have to pay attention to water sources. Other suggestions: look for less-used loops or one-way trips in the Sierra. I’m a WA native, but the Sierra Nevada in CA is my favorite of all the mountains I’ve hiked. Consider less convenient areas like the Sawtooth Mountains in Idaho, or there are those here who can tell you about the Beartooth and Absaroka ranges (which I’ve not visited but are on my list). One question that could shape where we want to send you is how much experience you have in wilderness backpacking. I know the West Highland Way can be done with tents or lodgings, and so presume there’s frequent contact with the outside world and food sources. If you start any of the 4-7 day trips I’m thinking of, you’re on your own—must carry all food and know how to treat the water, etc. Keep talking—we’ll help you find some great destinations that will fit your desires and experience.
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Post by nickhowes on Jan 12, 2024 9:02:12 GMT -8
For the Beartooths: No permits needed (but please practice Leave No Trace). June is too early (unless you like slogging through snow). Wildfire smoke is likely in September. Here are my trip reports to maybe provide a flavor of the place.
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Post by hikerchick395 on Jan 13, 2024 8:51:33 GMT -8
September is a good time to hike in the High Sierra. There are too many trails to mention. Last year was epic, with a record snowpack. Flowers were still blooming and some water crossings...still difficult.
It is still early here, but we have the makings of a drought year...at least on the east side. That can change at any time. But if it continues, June would be a good time to hike. There will still be snow, in places, leftover from last year. Mostly on passes. (The west side of the Sierra may have a closer to normal year as far as precipitation.)
You just need to decide if you want to get into the highest country or want to travel in forested areas. You mentioned the John Muir Trail...that has quite a variety of terrain to enjoy. If you are thinking this year...watch for trailhead cancellations.
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Post by merendo07 on Jan 13, 2024 11:35:02 GMT -8
Ok wow, that's a lot of input. Seems like I made the right choice by signing up to this community So, about hiking at elevation - I never hiked above 2500m/8200ft, so I'm a little concerned about going as high as 14000ft, carrying all of my kit. Am I worried about nothing? @rebecca: Thanks for your suggestions, I had a look at your blog, and that PCT section does look fabulous. Except for the smoke of course. I have never experienced wildfire smoke up close (virtually no wildfires where I live). So, should I expect the smoke to be a serious problem in September? And, from what I could find out, I will need only one permit, for the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area - is this correct? As for my experience: I did the WHW wild camping/camping at campsites. I can carry the supplies I need for seven days, I have a water filter (Platypus Quickdraw) and an MSR Hubba Hubba NX2. My gear is a little on the heavy side (about 33lbs, without water) and I'll try to put in on a diet before I head out. The Beartooth Mountain trails also look great, @nick thanks for your trip reports. hikerchick395 : Ok, so, you think I could do sections of the AT, for instance, as early as June? That sounds good. I don't mind patches of old snow, as long as there is no snow fall and the temperatures don't drop to less than 30°F at night.
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walkswithblackflies
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Post by walkswithblackflies on Jan 13, 2024 15:39:20 GMT -8
If you'll be in the northeast US:
New Hampshire: White Mountains, especially the Presidential Range (part of the AT) Vermont: Long Trail New York, Adirondacks: Indian Pass, Avalanche Lake, Great Range New York, Other: Finger Lakes / North County Trail
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Deborah
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Post by Deborah on Jan 13, 2024 16:50:41 GMT -8
So, about hiking at elevation - I never hiked above 2500m/8200ft, so I'm a little concerned about going as high as 14000ft, carrying all of my kit. Am I worried about nothing? Typically people do not carry their full backpack to the top of a 14er. Most of Colorado's 14ers can be done as day hikes. The trailheads start high, usually 10,000 ft or above. If you decide to add Colorado to your places to visit, there are loads of resources available about the Colorado Trail and the section of the CDT that goes through Colorado. You mentioned wanting to see NYC as well. How long will you be in the states? While the west is fabulous and gives you a real taste of the geology of the US, our country is large. It's roughly 3,000 miles from San Francisco, CA, to New York. So, be sure to factor in the time needed to get from one coast to the other when considering where to backpack. I live in Colorado. If you find that you want to come here and need some assistance with logistics (getting to the trailhead from the airport for instance) I might be able to help. Note: Backpack(ing) is what we call "wild camping", if we stay in camp grounds with picnic tables and other facilities, we call that car-camping.
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Post by hikerchick395 on Jan 14, 2024 8:40:47 GMT -8
merendo07 The long trails here in the Sierra are the John Muir Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail. In some places they are one and the same. There are many, many other trails and trailheads. As far as elevation, the JMT, for instance, starts at 4200' in Yosemite Valley on the north end. It starts on 14500' Mount Whitney on the south end. So lower elevations may certainly be accessible in June. But, who knows what the next 2-3 months will bring as far as snowfall and that could change accessiblity. (I don't think 33# for a week of hiking is heavy. You will need a bear canistor to hike in most Sierra locations.)
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Post by merendo07 on Jan 14, 2024 11:46:22 GMT -8
walkswithblackflies: Thanks for your suggestions, they're definitely going on my list. Deborah: Thanks for offering to help Yes, I want to spend some time in NYC, too. I know ppl in NYC and SF, and I'd like to see them. I'll probably fly to one city, and then fly back home from the other. There are direct flights from Zurich to and from both.I'll probably also fly domestic at least once, "skipping" the middle part of the USA. The holiday will be three weeks. hikerchick395: Okay, thanks. Sounds like JMT would be better hiked in September when most of the snow is gone higher up.
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Deborah
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Post by Deborah on Jan 14, 2024 13:11:17 GMT -8
"skipping" the middle part of the USA. The holiday will be three weeks. That would work. There's ample backpacking opportunities in both NY and CA. While The Rockies are beautiful and well worth the visit, with just three weeks, I would focus on NY and CA. The hard part is going to be narrowing down the options. Fortunately there are people here who represent both states and can provide a lot of guidance. If you can work in a stop in Utah, even if it's just day hikes, that would give you the forests of the east, the mountains of the west and the desert - a nice mix for a three week visit. Good luck!
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Jan 15, 2024 18:36:27 GMT -8
Yes, I want to spend some time in NYC, too. I know ppl in NYC and SF, and I'd like to see them. I'll probably fly to one city, and then fly back home from the other. There are direct flights from Zurich to and from both.I'll probably also fly domestic at least once, "skipping" the middle part of the USA. The holiday will be three weeks. With only 3 weeks, definitely fly from coast to coast Driving from CA to Denver wouldn’t be at all bad, though. We used to do that a lot, and it remains a favorite for me. Regarding smoke, it’s very hard to predict. The last 2 summers I’ve had it impact trips in the Alpine Lakes, one in early September and the other late August. It’s becoming a given that some part of the west will be on fire any part of the summer. Permit for the PCT through the ALpine Lakes was just a card filled out at the trailhead. But if you are headed to SF, Washington doesn’t sound like the place to hike, and there are lots of trails in the Sierra for which it’s easy to get a walk-up permit at the ranger stations (I don’t think there are many left that have DIY permits at the TH, though).
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Jan 16, 2024 17:11:52 GMT -8
Wilderness permits are for entry at a specific trailhead in a specific date for a specific number of people: after the first night satisfying the requirement to overnight a specific distance from the trailhead you’re free to go wherever you’d want to, exiting where you choose. In September there would be terrific routes available from many of the trailheads in Yosemite National Park Probably a loop would be best as that way you’re not double back over ground you’d already covered or the rather thin choices in public transportation. Any suggestions will make a lot more sense if you’ve a map for reference. The park uses a lottery system with applications going in for a week window at a time for, iirc up to 8 entry trailheads: that’s a LOT of opportunities all in one go. So you can list some popular trailheads and proceed to list less competitive and the likelihood you’ll get a permit skyrockets. I usually get my first listing though sometimes later in the week window rather than the first days. I still fill it all the way just to get that week firmed in. For a nice loop an entry at Mono Meadows th on Glacier Point road with heading up the Illillouette drainage, over Red Peak Pass down into the Merced River drainage, past Washburn & Merced Lake, maybe a detour to summit Half Dome then return via Glacier Pt etc. to the Mono Meadows th. Or do it from Glacier Point trailhead. Counter clockwise or clockwise Any number of loops can be constructed from the trailheads along Tioga Rd. Rafferty Creek out over Vogelsang Pass down to Merced Lake, looping back up past Half Dome to Cathedral pass and out to Tuolumne Meadows a few miles from your start trailhead. Again counterclockwise or clockwise. Ten Lakes Basin can be folded into many nice trips. If you wanted to do a nice section of the John Muir Trail I’d suggest heading north from an Inyo National Forest trailhead around Mammoth that brings you by some terrific mountain scenery then over Donohue Pass into Yosemite National Park where you’ve options: head to Tuolumne Meadows to exit or turn west past Ireland Lake, over Vogelsang Pass down to Merced Lake and out to Yosemite Valley. The scenery without the craziness of a “John Muir Trail” standard entry trailhead. A lot of info here www.nps.gov/yose/index.htmThen there’s where the permits are submitted: Recreation dot gov for both Yosemite www.recreation.gov/permits/445859And Inyo: www.recreation.gov/permits/233262June in the California Mountains and with their elevation you’d need to find a low route, much more difficult. For then I’d head to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, that’s their spring and glorious.
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Post by merendo07 on Jan 17, 2024 10:39:16 GMT -8
Well, it's decided, I'm going in September. Seems a better bet, especially regarding snow at higher altitudes. Thanks to you all for your suggestions. I'll try to whittle the list down this weekend and perhaps even make the first few bookings.
I will probably still need a little help figuring out transportation to and from the trailheads (unless I get a rental car there, which I will need for part of my trip anyways).
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Deborah
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Post by Deborah on Jan 18, 2024 9:18:56 GMT -8
(unless I get a rental car there, which I will need for part of my trip anyways). Try to avoid leaving a rental car at a trailhead. Most are safe enough, but some areas have issues with people breaking into the vehicle or some have issues with animals that damage the vehicles. No reason to pay a big chunk of money for a car that sits at the trailhead for a week.
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