schlanky
Trail Wise!
Lead singer, driver of the Winnebago
Posts: 452
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Post by schlanky on Oct 23, 2015 11:38:11 GMT -8
After weather took out my planned trip at Big South Fork and a red tide took out my backup plan at St Joseph Peninsula in Florida, I decided to spend a few days at Frozen Head State Park earlier this month. The hiking trip turned into more of a backcountry camping trip, but it was some nice time in the woods. The North Bird Mountain Trail was the only good trail left that I hadn't already walked at Frozen Head, so the plan was to hike Bird Mtn Trail up to the top, then take N Bird Mtn Trail down the back side of the mountain, then eventually climb back up to Bald Knob and pick up a connector over to a forest road that would get me to Squire Knob to camp. The hike up the mountain was steep, but fine. The steep hike down the back side of the mountain was generally fine too, but then it got hairy. The trail was wet from rain the night before and there is some serious sidehilling in stretches---nothing to grab on the uphill side and a nasty fall awaiting on the downhill side and a muddy trail in front of you. With an overweight overnight pack on, it was slow going and I was wishing for microspikes. (I later counted 40+ switchbacks on the map for that day's hike, and it felt like more than that, but the sidehilling was definitely the hardest part of the day.) I made it to Squire Knob just before dark & set up camp and called it an early night and marveled at how out of trail shape I've become over the past year or so. The plan for the next day was to make a loop with the forest road and the last two miles of North Bird Mtn Trail and another forest road from Coffin Springs. I woke up with burning legs from trying to stick my steps without sliding off the mountain in the mud the previous day and decided to scrap the plan. I hung out around Squire Knob all day. There is a nice little finger ridge extending beyond the camp area and a high hill above the camp, so I did some fun local exploration. Had a great fire that night and felt no remorse whatsoever for scrapping the day's planned miles. Day 3, I broke camp and did an easy hike over to Tub Springs for water (old springhouse built by CCC), then backtracked to the North Old Mac Trail and walked a little more than a mile down it to one of my favorite campsites. Had another great day hanging out in the woods and caught the sunset. As I was getting settled in the tent to go to sleep, I saw a flash. A bit later, I saw another. Then I started hearing the thunder in the distance. The storm took a good hour to roll in, and it's the hardest storm I've ever camped in----wind, lightning, hard rain. I was never worried about my safety, but was also glad that earlier that morning I'd opted not to camp up on a ridge top. I woke up the next morning clouded in and realized it would be a futile effort to try to dry out the tent before leaving, so I packed up wet and headed for home I saw three day hikers the first day, then saw a couple of backpackers in the distance on the third day, but saw no other people. I spotted three deer and a couple of hawks and listened to owls. My mileage the first day was about equal to the total mileage over the next three days, but it was a good trip.
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Post by ashepabst on Nov 3, 2015 6:58:34 GMT -8
thanks for sharing your trip. I've still yet to make it over to Frozen Head.
sidehilling is the worst. I think you just invented a new piece of hiker gear... mud spikes.
could that sunset have been any more perfectly framed by that hole in the canopy?
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Post by kevinumberger on Nov 4, 2015 11:35:49 GMT -8
"I've still yet to make it over to Frozen Head."
i dont think you are really missing much...
i was quite disappointed the one (and yes, i really should go more than once over there) time i was there-----their campsites were horrible.........
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Post by ashepabst on Nov 4, 2015 12:05:46 GMT -8
I've heard they have an exceptional spring wildflower display. and I like their relatively extensive trail system. but when it comes down to trip planning it falls through the cracks --it's plateau, without the fun canyon features, or mountains, without the grandeur of the Blue Ridge just another hour further.
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schlanky
Trail Wise!
Lead singer, driver of the Winnebago
Posts: 452
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Post by schlanky on Nov 4, 2015 18:30:11 GMT -8
I read kevin's trip report from Frozen Head a while back from whatever incarnation this forum was on at the time. Sounded like you hit a busy weekend. My experience there has been different, but kevin has some valid points. Frozen Head can be great or not so great. I've lucked out on all my trips there---never camped at a bad spot and never had company at a campsite during my 9 or so nights there.
Things to note:
It's a popular state park and not a wilderness area, so most trails get heavy use on pleasant weekends. Scout groups like the easily accessible campsites and Tub Springs. Go during the week and you'll likely have the place to yourself. Most of the dayhikers are walking the shortest/easiest routes up to the lookout tower (Spicewood, South Old Mac, North Old Mac).
There are three good places to camp: Squire Knob, Mart Fields and the site on North Old Mac near its junction with Panther Gap Trail (my sunset pic was from the North Old Mac site). The rest of the sites are indeed horrible. Spicewood may be decent in the middle of the week, but it's very close to a trailhead.
Water availability can be a problem for the three sites I like. There is a very seasonal spring at Mart Fields. My two stays at Squire Knob were after heavy rains and I pulled from drips out of hillsides---otherwise you're going to Coffin Springs or the only sure bet for water up top at Tub Springs. For the North Old Mac site, you need to carry water from Tub Springs or the parking lot depending on which way you're going.
The wildflower display at its peak is definitely worth the trip. Catching the leaves during fall is also nice. The scenery/terrain is varied and beautiful. A down side (similar to Savage Gulf) is that no matter how you go in, you're never that far from a trailhead compared to places like Kilmer. You just have to plan for avoiding the day hikers and for water availability.
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Post by ashepabst on Nov 5, 2015 6:56:55 GMT -8
what's your beef with the other campsites? just not very private if you have company?
is Castle Rock worth the effort? looks like it might be a fun place to boulder a bit.
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schlanky
Trail Wise!
Lead singer, driver of the Winnebago
Posts: 452
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Post by schlanky on Nov 5, 2015 10:12:56 GMT -8
what's your beef with the other campsites? Tub Springs is waaaay overused. It's one big open area and perfect for boy scouts. It has reliable water and it's centrally located to other trails, but that's all it has going for it. This is the most heavily used site at Frozen Head. Chimney Top may work for a single person in a hammock. It's not close to water and there's not much level ground at all. I can't really figure out why anyone ever decided that should be a campsite. Panther Gap Rock House is a cool place, but not for camping----damp and could feel cramped. It's worth a short side trip to visit, but not a good camp option. Panther Branch and Spicewood and Judge Branch sites are too close to civilization. Spicewood site is pretty, but not in a location you'd ever use unless you needed a really short day going in or coming out. Bird Mtn site is fine (I've seen it but never camped there), but the only hope for water is an unreliable little muddy seep--- I wouldn't rely on that except during/right after a whole bunch of rain. I don't think they allow camping up at the tower any more, which isn't a big loss--very windy up there. I hear they're making another site down near Coffin Springs, but it's not open yet. None of the camping areas have individual semi-private sites like you'd find at Savage Gulf etc. The sites generally have just one fire ring, so if you have company, you're sharing the fire ring if you want fire. The North Old Mac site really isn't big enough for more than a tent or two (which would make it a really bad place to have company), but Squire Knob and Mart Fields are larger. Mart Fields has a very seasonal spring nearby that's been running enough to get water when I've stayed there during springtime. Mart Fields has one small spot at an old chimney and a much larger & better area nearby---the seasonal spring is between the two but closer to the chimney. Both places are signed as being Mart Fields. They're maybe a quarter? mile apart. When I get my permit, I usually have two sites/trips in mind and ask if anyone is already registered at my first choice so I can plan accordingly to avoid sharing a campsite. They have a place to register outside the office, but I usually go inside and talk to staff to try to figure out best bets for camping alone. They don't allow campfires there during dry times, so going in the office also allows me to specifically ask if fires are OK while I'm there. Staff is friendly & helpful. Castle Rock going back to the junction with the North Bird Trail is a neat spot. One of the best overlooks in the whole area is nearby on Cumberland Trail. If you're climbing up Bird Mtn Trail from the car campground, at the top of the ridge you reach a junction. Cumberland Trail comes in from the left. Going straight would take you down the back side of the mountain on North Bird Mountain Trail. Going right would stay with Bird Mtn Trail and is also part of Cumberland Trail. At this junction, taking a left on Cumberland Trail (going away from Castle Rock) leads to a great rest spot with a view in less than a quarter mile or so. The area around Chimney Top would also give opportunities for bouldering. Being a state park, there are some drawbacks, but if you catch the right time during the spring bloom and can manage to camp alone, the terrain/scenery are fun. I've hiked it during winter, but I think it's better with leaves.
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Post by kevinumberger on Nov 5, 2015 11:29:04 GMT -8
"what's your beef with the other campsites?"
poor site selection...
i dont have map in front of me---but when i went there, and stopped at rangers station for permit--we talked about campsites and what not...
so i went to the one that is not right below fire tower (maybe tub springs-----there was a spring in that area)......but i went to the one just a touch further down....
so when i get to campsite, and realize not only is it tiny, but its under a rock overhang that had water dripping----i knew that wasnt for me....
keep in mind---the fire ring was also below overhang..........which meant the ceiling had soot and what not...
the site was horrible and i decided i would pick another place to stay...
so i went up to the other campsite-----and realized that yes, i didnt have a reservation for that site, and it was filling up quickly...
next option-----just camp illegally up at the fire tower............so thats what i did...
i had also passed another campsite on the way in (of course i dont remember name) that was on a ridge...........no water around at all........
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Post by kevinumberger on Nov 5, 2015 11:30:43 GMT -8
"Panther Gap Rock House is a cool place, but not for camping----damp and could feel cramped. It's worth a short side trip to visit, but not a good camp option."
this i think is that one i had a permit for.......
on a side note----how do i do the quote option in this forum?
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schlanky
Trail Wise!
Lead singer, driver of the Winnebago
Posts: 452
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Post by schlanky on Nov 5, 2015 12:07:40 GMT -8
so when i get to campsite, and realize not only is it tiny, but its under a rock overhang that had water dripping----i knew that wasnt for me.... keep in mind---the fire ring was also below overhang..........which meant the ceiling had soot and what not... That's a very accurate description of Panther Gap Rock House. I failed to mention in my post that you're actually camping inside the rock house. ----- To do the quote thing, you select the text you want to quote (like you're doing a cut & paste). A little button that says "quick quote" pops up. Click that button and it will autofill the text you selected into the reply box. Or at least that's how it works on a Mac.
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Post by kevinumberger on Nov 5, 2015 12:55:11 GMT -8
To do the quote thing, you select the text you want to quote (like you're doing a cut & paste). A little button that says "quick quote" pops up. Click that button and it will autofill the text you selected into the reply box. thanks......works for PC this way as well....
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Post by kevinumberger on Nov 5, 2015 12:58:33 GMT -8
That's a very accurate description of Panther Gap Rock House. I failed to mention in my post that you're actually camping inside the rock house. yeah... thats the place.... not sure why that place would ever get selected as a place to camp....... i will give this park another chance someday, as i wanna check out the west (?) side of the park which looks to be a little less traveled... then again, if i get motivated to go backpacking again............
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Post by ashepabst on Nov 5, 2015 13:38:35 GMT -8
not sure why that place would ever get selected as a place to camp....... that's like the only rule at Big South Fork... camp where ya want, just away from the roads and away from the rockhouses. you surely wouldn't build a fire under one. then again, if i get motivated to go backpacking again............ say it a'int so, Joe! thanks for sharing your notes, Schlanky --much appreciated.
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schlanky
Trail Wise!
Lead singer, driver of the Winnebago
Posts: 452
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Post by schlanky on Nov 5, 2015 14:40:51 GMT -8
As mentioned briefly above, Cumberland Trail passes through Frozen Head. If anyone is interested in that, here's a link: cumberlandtrail.org/website/maps-and-guides/trail-segments/frozen-head/frozen-head-state-park-section/I've walked to the overlook on CT east of the Bird Mtn/North Bird Mtn intersection (it's shown on map on the link), but haven't been beyond that overlook. The tiny bit I saw was very nice. I'd hoped to kick around more on a quick out and back side trip on Cumberland Trail on my last trip, but with the top being completely clouded in, I skipped the side trip.
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Post by kevinumberger on Nov 5, 2015 17:20:59 GMT -8
that's like the only rule at Big South Fork... camp where ya want, just away from the roads and away from the rockhouses. you surely wouldn't build a fire under one. i would have thought that people had learnt long ago not to build a fire under an overhang........ and that would have been my defense if a ranger had come up on me camping below the tower.... i would have politely told him/her my thoughts on the campsite i had permit for---and then why i chose to camp at the tower..... and then i would have gladly taken the ticket.............and asked for a jury trial----cause im like that....
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