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Post by joer01 on Oct 9, 2016 17:40:32 GMT -8
Hey Everyone,
Some friends and I have an opportunity to do a 3-4 night backpacking trip in Wyoming in late August 2017. It looks like the hiking will have to be mostly over a weekend, one immediately preceding a solar eclipse. The eclipse will no doubt be great, but it also means weekend warriors will be flocking to western Wyoming in droves! So...
Which popular backcountry is less crowded on an August weekend: the Tetons or the Wind Rivers?
It's not entirely clear from my internet research, because the Tetons are obviously more touristy, but have a backcountry quota system in place, while the Winds apparently don't have any quota system at all.
To give you an idea of what we're thinking, here are some possible itineraries. Are any of these measurably better or worse than the others in terms of August weekend crowds? Or are all of them going to be pretty packed?
1) Green River Trailhead -- Knapsack Col -- Titcomb Basin -- Elkhart Trailhead (Winds Shuttle Hike) 2) Big Sandy Trailhead -- Hailey Pass -- Lizard Head Trail -- Cirque of The Towers (Winds Loop Hike) 3) Death Canyon -- Teton Crest -- Paintbrush [or Cascade] Canyon (Tetons Shuttle Hike)
(And yeah, I know that this problem can be solved if we simply avoid the most popular trails, but for the sake of discussion, let's just assume for the moment that we are only looking at the premier spots.)
Any wisdom anyone might be able to dispense would be a huge help! Thanks!
Joe
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Post by swimswithtrout on Oct 9, 2016 20:08:28 GMT -8
My wisdom would be that the two Wind's hikes you list will require more than 3-4 days. Aside from that, the Wind's are not a "weekend" destination so once you're more than 5-7 mi from a TH, it's all yours, (unless you're heading to The Cirque and it's international status as a premier Alpine rockclimbing destination .)
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Post by joer01 on Oct 10, 2016 1:56:47 GMT -8
Thanks, swimswithtrout. I guess I'm mainly worried about Titcomb - I've heard horror stories about how crowded it can get.
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Post by johntpenca on Oct 10, 2016 5:51:26 GMT -8
Where are you flying into/coming from? Roads to/from the Wind River trailheads can take up to half a day or more depending on your starting point. It is not a roadside wilderness. You should really try to make it a week or more.
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Westy
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Post by Westy on Oct 10, 2016 10:12:22 GMT -8
Green River Trailhead -- Knapsack Col -- Titcomb Basin -- Elkhart Trailhead (Winds Shuttle Hike) 2) Big Sandy Trailhead -- Hailey Pass -- Lizard Head Trail -- Cirque of The Towers (Winds Loop Hike) I can't comment on the Tetons as I have no backpacking experience there. I can tell you that your Wind River itineraries are essentially the best of the best. Therefore the most popular. There are plenty of folks here with extensive Wind River knowledge that can help you. My suggestion is to plan the top 5 route choices in order of #1, #2, #3, #4, #5 based on popularity, best of the best, etcetera. Then select #6. The Winds are so awesome that any part of them is way cool. Titcomb Basin and Island Lake are just another basin and lake. Cirque of Towers is a major dirt bagger hang out and to be avoided based on your criteria. Think outliers, target a peak to climb and put that into your loop plan.
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Post by Chuck the Mauler on Oct 10, 2016 14:02:30 GMT -8
Joey gave you the best advice over on BCP. However, in the Tetons stay north of Mount Moran and you won't see another soul. I promise you! If you decide to do a typical Teton hike, try to camp at places other than the camp zones. Like Snowdrift Lake, Mica Lake, Grizzly Bear Lake, etc..... Skip Cascade Canyon. It's the second or third busiest trail in WY next to Titcomb or Big Sandy.
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Post by absarokanaut on Oct 10, 2016 14:51:40 GMT -8
Did you read that somehwere or guessing Chuck? I've always considered Cascade the most popu;lar [crowded] trail in the state because it is so accessible compared to others. Boquo dayhikers.
You seem to have passed over the most important part of SWT's post; time. Have you REALLY thought it out? Do you really want to essentially run through spectacular country.
Chuck is spot on about going north of Moran, that is some of the most underrated backcountry on the planet. Have you considered the East side of the Winds?
Crowds are relative. In the Tetons you will see lots of folks closer to trailheads but less and less as you go. Chuck gave you some great suggestions. I'd definitely go with the Tetons unless you are serious uber athletes that really don't care about much aside from crossing something off your list. IF that's the case too bad.
Of course you're skipping what I think is the best of NW Wyoming, the Absaroka. I could tell you an awesome route for your time frame with a LOT of time above treeline and amazing views.
The second half of August we have a good lull usually when it comes to "crowds."
I hope you go the appreciation route and not the marathon stuff. Whatever you do have a wonderful time.
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Post by topshot on Oct 14, 2016 3:20:27 GMT -8
I would expect the Winds to be the worst they've ever been that particular weekend unless the weather is guaranteed to be overcast. Same with the Tetons. Don't expect any hotels or car camping campsites anywhere in WY either. If you're experienced enough you should hike and camp off trail if you want any kind of peace.
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Post by larrys on Oct 14, 2016 10:51:46 GMT -8
I have been to the Winds many times including Titcomb Basin and never considered it crowded. Sure you will see some people in the basin and around Island Lake but I would never say it was crowded. Teton Crest Trail was not crowed either when I went as it is governed by a permit system. It might take you one long day to get to Island Lake or an easy 1 1/2 days but the hike out is much quicker, 5-7 hours.
I guess you could do the Green River hike in 4 days but it will not leave you much extra time to spend in Titcomb Basin. Given your time constraints I would opt to hike straight in from Elkhart TH.
If not seeing anyone is a requirement then you might consider Death Valley in July or August.
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Post by trekkerman on Oct 21, 2016 11:05:13 GMT -8
I shuttle backpackers to trailheads out of Pinedale in the summer. (GOTCO) The Wind River Range is no secret. On any day in August I have actually counted over 200 vehicles parked at Big Sandy Trailhead, and a similar number at Elkhart Park. Green river Lakes is slightly less popular averaging about 90 vehicles in August. That being said I would argue that the Winds offer one of the finest backpacking experience in the US. The range does appear to "swallow up" the numbers of backpacker and after the second day most will have a genuine Wilderness experience. The Winds are one of the few places left where: (1) No permit is required (2) You can take your dog (3)You can camp most anywhere (4) You can catch a fish and (5) you can usually make a campfire.
I would add that because of the relative distance of the range from any large urban area weekends are not rreally a factor. During August weekdays or weekends make little difference in the numbers. Trekkerman in Pinedale
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2016 12:26:47 GMT -8
Do people do the southern Winds much?
I climbed Gannett from the Glacier TH in 1990 (and we went days without seeing anyone). Guess it's not like that now.
but rarely hear of anyone doing the southern Winds.
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Post by trekkerman on Oct 21, 2016 14:00:03 GMT -8
Big Sandy TH is considered the southern end of the range and is super popular (see above), but if you mean EXTREME end of the Wind Rive Range (ie Sweetwater Gap on the west side and Worthern Meadows TH on the east side) than the answer is that they get much less traffic. We climbed Wine River Peak a few years ago accessing it from Sweetwater Gap and we saw only a handful of people, but that was in early July. Probably the least visited part of the range is the Indian reservation portion on the east central side. Some are intimidated, others don't want the hassle of getting a permit, but although the views are not overwhelming the isolation can be special. (And the fishing may be the best the range has to offer) The area around Faler Lake, Baker Lake, Simpson Lake and Ross Lake in the extreme northwest also is pretty void of humans, Trekkerman in PInedale
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Post by trekkerman on Oct 21, 2016 14:03:25 GMT -8
Big Sandy TH is considered the southern end of the range and is super popular (see above), but if you mean EXTREME end of the Wind Rive Range (ie Sweetwater Gap on the west side and Worthern Meadows TH on the east side) than the answer is that they get much less traffic. We climbed Wind River Peak a few years ago accessing it from Sweetwater Gap and we saw only a handful of people, but that was in early July. Probably the least visited part of the range is the Indian reservation portion on the east central side. Some are intimidated, others don't want the hassle of getting a permit, but although the views are not overwhelming the isolation can be special. (And the fishing may be the best the range has to offer) The area around Faler Lake, Baker Lake, Simpson Lake and Ross Lake in the extreme northwest also is pretty void of humans, Trekkerman in PInedale
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Post by trekkerman on Oct 21, 2016 14:04:23 GMT -8
Big Sandy TH is considered the southern end of the range and is super popular (see above), but if you mean EXTREME end of the Wind Rive Range (ie Sweetwater Gap on the west side and Worthern Meadows TH on the east side) than the answer is that they get much less traffic. We climbed Wind River Peak a few years ago accessing it from Sweetwater Gap and we saw only a handful of people, but that was in early July. Probably the least visited part of the range is the Indian reservation portion on the east central side. Some are intimidated, others don't want the hassle of getting a permit, but although the views are not overwhelming the isolation can be special. (And the fishing may be the best the range has to offer) The area around Faler Lake, Baker Lake, Simpson Lake and Ross Lake in the extreme northwest also is pretty void of humans, Trekkerman in PInedale
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2016 11:27:56 GMT -8
Big Sandy TH is considered the southern end of the range and is super popular (see above), but if you mean EXTREME end of the Wind Rive Range (ie Sweetwater Gap on the west side and Worthern Meadows TH on the east side) than the answer is that they get much less traffic. We climbed Wind River Peak a few years ago accessing it from Sweetwater Gap and we saw only a handful of people, but that was in early July. Probably the least visited part of the range is the Indian reservation portion on the east central side. Some are intimidated, others don't want the hassle of getting a permit, but although the views are not overwhelming the isolation can be special. (And the fishing may be the best the range has to offer) The area around Faler Lake, Baker Lake, Simpson Lake and Ross Lake in the extreme northwest also is pretty void of humans, Trekkerman in PInedale Yes, I was thinking of the Louis Lake/Sinks area. I was under the impression it was lesser-visited. Thanks for sharing your experiences there. I've only done that one trip to the northern Winds long ago; haven't done anything further south.
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