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Post by thrillseeker on Jul 22, 2016 6:41:29 GMT -8
Hi all,
I'll be doing a backpacking trip to GSMNP with a friend from Oct 18-23 (including travel from/to New England). While both of us are experienced hikers and backpackers, neither have ever been to GSMNP, so we are trying to get oriented. I'd say we're in the moderate-strenuous range wrt trail rigor. Both very active, but not marathoners.
We hear the autumn colors should be in full swing by then, so I'm wondering what trails and backcountry sites you'd recommend that are both scenic (I'm very into photography) and logistically feasible for the given time frame? And, given those recommendations, where does it make most sense to fly into -- from the NC or TN side? Any other local attractions we should check out?
Thanks in advance. First post, so patience is appreciated if these are ignorant questions...!
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Post by kevinumberger on Jul 22, 2016 13:49:49 GMT -8
depending upon what side of the park you end of going to, would determine where to fly into...
as in----if you are doing something on the eastern NC side----its probably better to fly into asheville...
if you are doing the TN side----fly into knoxville airport (which really isnt exactly in knoxville but 20 miles closer to the townsend side of the park)...........
for trails----what kinda mileage you wanna pull? and how many days and nights would you actually be backpacking?
as for local attractions-----depending upon what you are looking for----it you want touristy things---pigeon forge and gatlinburg can take care of your go cart, taffy, airbrushed tshirts needs......
if you fly into asheville-----check out downtown asheville........lots of local art shops and local food choices....
back to trails-----i would maybe suggest something that started on a ridgleline and then would drop down to a creek or something like that.....
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Post by kevinumberger on Jul 22, 2016 13:51:32 GMT -8
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Post by thrillseeker on Jul 22, 2016 20:30:37 GMT -8
Thanks -- just ordered the book.
We will probably have 4 full days & 3 nights to backpack. I imagine we'll pace at 10-15 mi/day, leaving enough time to 'smell the roses' (foliage?) so to speak, plus stop for photo opps, etc.
Are there any scenic loops or trail sections in particular that we should look into? I'm feeling a little overwhelmed by all the options (no shortage on google!), so any insight from personal experiences are welcomed and appreciated. Also, are there specific areas that are most likely to be in peak foliage then (Oct 18-23)? Not sure how it works in the Smokies, but in New England our foliage really varies by the week, with northern territories peaking earlier.
thanks.
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Post by kevinumberger on Jul 23, 2016 20:18:25 GMT -8
thats how it will vary with the elevation that the park has...
higher up and generally the nc side tend to peak earlier than the lower elevations and the TN side......somewhat....
yeah.....there are a ton of choices of routes.........
one route that i have in my head right now-----park at clingmans dome and go out the AT towards welch ridge........take welch ridge to hazel creek and drop down into that watershed........beginning part is ridgeline hiking up high, and then it drops down into the watershed of hazel creek....
then take hazel to lakeshore and cut across lakeshore back to forney and make the climb up forney creek back to clingmans...
not sure mileage right now and too lazy to look on map..........but theres a ton of campsites along that way....
the hazel creek area has a ton of history to it, passing old homesites and cemeteries and things like that....
or take welch ridge down to high rocks, go up there, double back to bear creek trail and dip down that to forney.........(i think this way would be shorter mileage as it sorta cuts across to forney in less miles than lakeshore)
there will be a ton to see along either of these two routes......
views along the ridgeline, history, creeks and waterfalls..........etc etc etc.....
the middle chunk of both routes is where you'll have solitude.............or weekday you might not see anyone........
oh, and you will be overwhelmed with opportunities to take pictures in the park.....
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Post by thrillseeker on Aug 7, 2016 4:58:13 GMT -8
Thanks very much for this. I like the Forney Creek & Ridgeline loop idea. My only concern is that according to several articles I've read, there are multiple river crossings which can be dangerous after significant rain...seeing that we are going in later Oct., that seems to be conceivable. Do you think in an average year the rivers would still be passable? My sense is that this is more problematic after snow, and Oct seems a bit early for that. But...would welcome any thoughts.
Thanks again.
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Post by ashepabst on Aug 8, 2016 7:00:45 GMT -8
October's the only drier month for the area, so your odds are good that the baseline water levels will be lower than usual and that any surge from a storm will return to passable more quickly. I've done those crossings in higher water and they're not easy... definitely don't plan on doing them barefoot.
you guys can always use the ridge trail as a high-water alternative.
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Post by thrillseeker on Aug 8, 2016 7:57:28 GMT -8
October's the only drier month for the area, so your odds are good that the baseline water levels will be lower than usual and that any surge from a storm will return to passable more quickly. I've done those crossings in higher water and they're not easy... definitely don't plan on doing them barefoot. you guys can always use the ridge trail as a high-water alternative. Thanks. Would you agree that this is the best backpacking area for that time of year? Are there other places in the park you'd recommend for 3 or so days? Thanks again.
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Post by ashepabst on Aug 9, 2016 6:42:56 GMT -8
I've done the upper half of Forney Creek (as a loop with Welch Ridge, Jonas Creek) and had a great time --upper Forney's a beautiful creek and that section of the AT has big views to either side of the ridge from the Narrows (east of Silers) and on the west slope of Mt. Buckley. the Narrows are very cool after leaf-off (earlyish October at that elevation). I've yet to visit High Rocks, but I'm pretty sure you have view of Fontana from there.
I think you have a good route here, with a mix of ridge and creek trails, so good photo ops on the panoramas and then cascades down on the river. I could rattle off lots of fun Smokies routes --really just depends on what you're looking for. Epic views? get a shuttle and do the AT through the Eastern half of the park. or maybe take the Boulevard out to Mt Leconte. if you wanna throw cascades/falls into the mix you gotta get down off the ridge for a bit onto a creek trail.
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Post by ashepabst on Aug 9, 2016 6:48:20 GMT -8
I forgot to mention... Kevin's loop has you coming down to Lower Hazel Creek where you'll see remains of an old logging town. there are several building remains there and artifacts and several old cemeteries... great photo ops. I did a canoe trip several years ago in late October up to CS86 and the foliage was stunning. the dates you have planned are pretty much the sweet spot for foliage in the area (weather pending, of course).
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Post by thrillseeker on Aug 14, 2016 7:46:32 GMT -8
How does Forney/Hazel loop compare to the Big Creek Loop? This has also been recommended to me. Seems to be slightly shorter with a higher elevation gain, but otherwise I'm wondering how it compares in terms of rigor and scenery (esp mid Oct). Park ranger suggested night 1 at campsite 37, then on to Laurel Gap for night 2 and campsite 38 the third night.
Thoughts?
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Post by kevinumberger on Aug 15, 2016 9:59:22 GMT -8
the big creek loop will be much more crowded..........
37 is the busiest campsite in the park........
you'll be along a creek up to 37 then go up to the ridge to get to 38 and the fire tower...
you wont have as many views along this route..........
and laurel gap is a shelter..........
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Post by thrillseeker on Aug 15, 2016 18:37:15 GMT -8
Hmm...ranger said the Big Creek Loop would actually be more scenic...I've never been on either, obviously, so can't say myself. But wondering from where that disparity emerges.
Good to know it's more crowded, though. Is one significantly more strenuous than the other?
And thanks, by the way!
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Post by ashepabst on Aug 16, 2016 7:41:52 GMT -8
they're both scenic. I'm not sure which I'd recommend sooner.
I don't have the map in front of me but, assuming you're going all the way down Hazel and back up Forney creek, isn't that significantly more mileage than the Big Creek route?
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Post by thrillseeker on Aug 16, 2016 8:08:10 GMT -8
they're both scenic. I'm not sure which I'd recommend sooner. I don't have the map in front of me but, assuming your going all the way down Hazel and back up Forney creek, isn't that significantly more mileage than the Big Creek route? I think it's about 30 mi vs 16 (though the Ranger with whom I spoke said it was 24 (?), so not sure where he's getting that extra mileage). However, wasn't sure if the elevation gain of the latter made it about as rigorous as the former. I'll have to run it past my hiking partner and see if she has a preference.
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