driftwoody
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Post by driftwoody on Jul 6, 2020 9:31:37 GMT -8
I'm looking for a backpacking destination in the Rockies for early-mid September which isn't too crowded and has some alpine lakes as well as some nice lower elevation hikes for acclimation. The Bighorns are 16 hours from my home in Chicagoland, which is about the limit of my range for one day of driving.
I've been reading up on the Bighorns and they look like a good choice for me, but I welcome other suggestions. I'm not in shape to bag high summits or trek long rugged miles every day, but I'm fairly capable of stretching a challenging three day trek into a somewhat more relaxing four days. My goal is beautiful scenery and spending some nights in the mountains after being cooped up far too long. My last hiking trip was December of last year.
Of course, I'll be contacting the Forest or Park service regarding COVID restrictions & rules.
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rangewalker
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Post by rangewalker on Jul 6, 2020 11:16:45 GMT -8
Short answer: I and Traviswood are probably the most experienced Bighorn National Forest - Bighorn Mountains folks here on the forums. I was off on a three day trip over the 4th in a roadless area, recommended wilderness, exploring old trails. I have been on the East side, Buffalo and Sheridan full time since '86. Work and hiking since '75. I have to go work in about ten minutes so this will be very brief. - The Bighorn NF and the Cloud Peak Wilderness are fantastic, like most of the Central Rockies, through mid-September. Crowds are down after mid-August, but this is 2020 and uncertain.
- There are TWO in print Falcon guides. Keffer's and Molvar's. I like Molvar's but Keffer is better for first time explorer. Molvar is a friend and fellow activist on public lands and environment. [He is bigger, more influential, and better than me] I did meet up with him last summer when he was here updating his guide books for reprint.
There is also an excellent Trails Illustrated map, just updated by TI, Bighorn NF and the Cloud Peak Chapter of Wilderness Watch. i have always thought the Bighorn Mountains were a bunding of Yellowstone at mid-elevation sagebrush and forest, the high alpine of the Winds, and Southern Utah on the West slope and southern red rock. And all three elements are some of the most accessible in the Rockies. It is high elevation. Unless is gets horrendous here, I do not see it being closed.
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driftwoody
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Take the path closer to the edge, especially if less traveled
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Post by driftwoody on Jul 6, 2020 15:50:27 GMT -8
Thanks a ton for the response, rangewalker. I bought the Keffer guide (copyright 2017) a year or two ago. I think it will serve me very well though I wish it listed the elevations for the hikes, as I need to start out lower for acclimation. I have the Nat Geo Cloud Peak Wilderness Map, and just ordered the USGS Bighorn Forest map. I'll probably have more questions as I delve into planning this trip.
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rangewalker
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Post by rangewalker on Jul 7, 2020 14:07:51 GMT -8
driftwoody: The Nat Geo map gives some good elevations. There are Bighorn NF campgrounds at West Tensleep, Deer Park, and Edelman near the trailheads. They mostly need to be reserved through reservations.gov . They would make good acclimation camps for a few days to have your body build ups stores of red blood cells. Three-four days of good hydration, eat well and good sleep after the first night makes a great difference.
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Post by cadesun on Jul 15, 2020 12:37:21 GMT -8
My family camped and backpacked in the Bighorns every summer for about a decade when I was a kid. Much less crowded than the NPs and easy dispersed car camping off of most Forest Service roads. We stopped through for a night on our way back from the Tetons last fall and found it much the same. Beautiful place.
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driftwoody
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Post by driftwoody on Jul 15, 2020 17:21:46 GMT -8
My family camped and backpacked in the Bighorns every summer for about a decade when I was a kid. Much less crowded than the NPs and easy dispersed car camping off of most Forest Service roads. We stopped through for a night on our way back from the Tetons last fall and found it much the same. Beautiful place. The more I learn about this area the more I'm encouraged to follow through with a weeklong trip there.
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driftwoody
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Take the path closer to the edge, especially if less traveled
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Post by driftwoody on Jul 22, 2020 18:35:24 GMT -8
After a couple weeks of diving into what the Bighorns have to offer, I have a tentative itinerary. Much of this was gleaned from Ken Keffer's Falcon guidebook with follow-up searches on the internet. My hiking buddy and I are not looking to chew up big miles and high peaks. We've been on many hiking adventures over the years, but in our early 60's and somewhat overweight we don't want to punish our bodies to enjoy the mountain experience. Being flatlanders from Chicagoland and more accustomed to the Appalachians, we'll have to get acclimated and get our hiking legs under us after a long layoff.
We're breaking the 16 hour drive in half, leaving midday Friday with a motel that night in Sioux Falls or just beyond. Should arrive at a campsite Saturday afternoon, planning for the Amsden Creek Wildlife Management Unit on the northeast edge of Bighorn NF. The campground is less than 5000 feet, and is near the start of Sunday's dayhike -- Tongue River Canyon (with a cave on the side) and as far up the trail beyond that as we care to go.
Sunday night stay at one of the campgrounds along hwy 14, all of which are about 7500' or above. Monday we'll take in the sights along the scenic byway and do more dayhikes -- Medicine Wheel (above 9000'), a couple of waterfalls (Porcupine & Bucking Mule) and whatever else we feel like doing (this is a vacation, after all).
Monday night find a campsite on the southeast side, Circle Park or one of the others (around 8000'). Tuesday/Wednesday will be an overnighter on the Circle Park Loop. Going clockwise from Sherd Lake, find a nice campsite at Old Crow Lake. Wednesday hike up to Lame Deer Lake and as far as we care to go up towards Chill lakes (or Firehole Lakes -- any info on that?), then gather up camp and head back down to the trailhead, completing the lollipop loop. Wednesday night go to Buffalo for a nice bed & shower, or camp at Hunter for the start of the next backpacking trek.
Thursday head up to the Seven Brothers Lakes, probably via FR 395 instead of Soldier Park (come back down via S.P.). After visiting 7 Brothers, head west towards Florence Pass -- but not very far this day. Not too far past the trail intersections, a small lake (Deer) just north of the trail to Florence would make a good campsite (according to Keffer's book -- has anyone visited Deer Lake?). We would base camp there for Thursday & Friday nights, hiking up to Florence Lake & Pass and back on Friday. Head back down on Saturday then drive a few hours east to a motel Saturday night, arriving home Sunday night. If we do this the first week of September I'll have Monday off for Labor Day (always nice to have a day for unwinding and taking care of gear before going back to work). But if the weather looks great the previous week, we'll go then.
I welcome feedback & suggestions. I know I'm neglecting some great hikes on the southwest side, but there's only so much we can do in a week. Reason to return and explore that area next time.
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rangewalker
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Post by rangewalker on Jul 23, 2020 18:51:54 GMT -8
I read through the itinerary and it looks great. Amsden WHMA camp outside Dayton, WY is very primitive but doable. Our Wyoming G&F is just not in the rec camping business. Expect some Covid-19 refugees. Tongue Canyon is drop dead gorgeous but can be busy. Great conditioning hike without being a death march. Camps along US 14-14A should be reserved. Bighorn NF uses Recreation.gov The day hikes should be great. Medicine Wheel, Porcupine, and Bucking Mule Falls are great trails. DO not attempt the length of Bucking Mule National Recreation Trail (11 miles). Beautiful but of the most rugged NRT’s out there, Circle Park Campground is good. Again, use reservation system. If not open there are 2 other nearby campgrounds off US 16 that are close. Expect a lot of day hikers and fisherman on the trails on weekend days. I know there is camps sites around Old Crow. There are some on the moraine above Sherd Lake and turn down TR046 along Oliver Crew and after a few hundred yards there are web of sites just to the right of the trail. The access to Lame Deer Lake is ok. Firehole can be rugged and without system trail. Off trail hiking can be rough as the area is glacial moraine, kettle holes and boulders. With fill and trees in between. Just a little way off the trial and it can be instant solitude. I think you have chosen well. Indian Campground in Buffalo caters some to tenters. The KOA has cabins. There are some older but nice motels on the west end of Buffalo within walking distance of downtown. On the East end of Buffalo are a Hampton and Holiday Express. Hunter Corrals is geared to the horse set and I would not recommend it. Sherd Lake Cloud Peak Wilderness - Bighorn NF July 17, 2020 six days ago
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driftwoody
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Take the path closer to the edge, especially if less traveled
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Post by driftwoody on Jul 24, 2020 2:40:55 GMT -8
Much appreciate the info & feedback, rangewalker. I plan to take the short hike to Bucking Mule Falls, not the entire National Recreation Trail. I know about the online reservation system for campgrounds, but not sure yet which week I'm going. Maybe I should just choose now, rather than wait for weather forecast. On the 3 day trek to Florence Pass I may want to make it 4 days (3 nites) instead, camping at Seven Bros Lakes the first night. It would be nice to have more time to spend there before moving on to the 2-nite base camp at Deer Lake off trail 038 to Florence. Adding a day to that trek would mean leaving home a day earlier, or doing only one day of dayhikes instead of two at the top of my itinerary. Instead of camping at Amsden the first night (<5000') we'd camp at one of the FS campgrounds (>7500') nite 1, then Circle Park (8000') nite 2 before heading up to Old Crow (9500'). Probably better not to lose that extra day of acclimation, given that we're old flatlanders not in the best of shape. The biggest question I have regarding all my intended backcountry campsites is this: Are there trees suitable for my hammock? I much prefer hanging to tenting. These sites are Old Crow Lake, Seven Bros, and Deer Lake. An alternative to Deer Lake would be somewhere along trail 038 to Florence, probably where it crosses North Clear Creek about 2 miles (or less) west of the intersection with trail 024. Can I count on the kind of trees necessary for hanging my Warbonnet Blackbird?
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rangewalker
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Post by rangewalker on Jul 24, 2020 9:03:45 GMT -8
Are there trees suitable for my hammock? I much prefer hanging to tenting. These sites are Old Crow Lake, Seven Bros, and Deer Lake. An alternative to Deer Lake would be somewhere along trail 038 to Florence, probably where it crosses North Clear Creek about 2 miles (or less) west of the intersection with trail 024. Can I count on the kind of trees necessary for hanging my Warbonnet Blackbird? The timberline for the Cloud Peak Wilderness is about '9200 feet. The dominant tree is Lodge Pole Pine. You picked areas that have the best chances of having hammock sites in the CPW. I think you will do great. Safety: look for stable trees. Lodge Pole can be tricky in the wind. When camping, always plan for a safe spot for fire. Like Seven Brothers, how do I get out the fuel and onto the boulder fields? All these lake areas have safer refuges. And the CPW Wilderness Rangers are sticklers about being 100' from water. The August forecasts day to day in the area are erratic. Plan for some night winds and afternoon thunderstorms.
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driftwoody
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Post by driftwoody on Jul 24, 2020 9:52:29 GMT -8
The timberline for the Cloud Peak Wilderness is about '9200 feet. The dominant tree is Lodge Pole Pine. You picked areas that have the best chances of having hammock sites in the CPW. All the backcountry campsites I noted are above the 9200' line on the Cloud Peaks Wilderness map. Are lodgepole pines above the timberline? I'll recheck some of the online pics, but I'm fairly certain I saw trees at Old Crow and Seven Bros.
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rangewalker
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Post by rangewalker on Jul 24, 2020 11:45:32 GMT -8
All the backcountry campsites I noted are above the 9200' line on the Cloud Peaks Wilderness map. Are lodgepole pines above the timberline? I'll recheck some of the online pics, but I'm fairly certain I saw trees at Old Crow and Seven Bros. You are right, there are trees at Deer Lake, Seven Brothers, and Old Crow. The timberline is not a hard snapline of tree growth. Every campsite area you have chosen has trees from my experience. They are right at the boundary. 9200' is the elevation that the Bighorn NF set as above that in most parts of the BNF reproduction and growth of conifers declines sharply. 90% of the CPW is above 9200' and because of that slow growth, more limited reproduction, and lack of a down and dead woody debris for future nutrients, campfires are prohibited above 9200'. From a survey camp, Seven Bothers Lake, north of Lake 7, or largest of chain. (2007)
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driftwoody
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Post by driftwoody on Jul 24, 2020 11:54:28 GMT -8
The campfire prohibition is noted all over the map, but it's always good to reinforce important rules like that -- and critical to explain the safety considerations you did, which I appreciate.
It's been at least a decade since I bothered with a campfire while backpacking, though some cold beer around a fire at a drive-in campground is enjoyable.
I think I'm pretty set in my plans now, all of which allow bail-outs if necessary.
Still on the fence about the hammock, as I don't want to find myself without a spot to hang. This is the reason I bought a SMD Lunar Solo over the winter.
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rangewalker
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Post by rangewalker on Jul 26, 2020 8:36:29 GMT -8
I think I'm pretty set in my plans now, all of which allow bail-outs if necessary. I will pm you with some contact details. I will be in the area all of August. I have supplanted my Yellowstone NP group trip with a long local hike or hikes 20th-28th. The 17-18th is the Primary election and go into lockdown. It is possible to contact me as I have a SpotX tether when on the trail. I will send a link to my local SAR contacts. There are three counties for the Cloud Peak Wilderness, all very competent, in SAR. Next to nothing for shuttles but if you have a forced exit without injuries, I may be of help.
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driftwoody
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Take the path closer to the edge, especially if less traveled
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Post by driftwoody on Jul 26, 2020 10:54:15 GMT -8
Thanks rangewalker , I've decided to leave early morning Friday Aug 28 and drive all the way to a motel in Sheridan. Our backpacking in the Cloud Peak Wilderness will be Aug 31 - Sep 5. No need for car shuttles. Day hikes & car campgrounds Saturday (Five Springs, 6500') & Sunday (Circle Park, 8100'). Monday start the Circle Park Loop clockwise, camping at Old Crow Lake (9320') that night. Tuesday visit Lame Deer Lake (or just hang out) before heading back down, stay at a motel in Buffalo Tuesday night. Wednesday hike from the Hunter TH up to Seven Brothers Lakes (9600') for a campsite. Thursday spend some time exploring the lakes, then just 4 miles to a base camp at Deer Lake (9360') Thursday & Friday nights. Friday day hike to Florence Lake & Pass (10,920'). Saturday head back down, then drive a few hours east (probably to Rapid City). Drive the rest of the way home on Sunday, with Labor Day to relax and take care of gear. All the back country campsites in this itinerary are 8 miles or less downhill to the trailhead, so bailing out is always an option. Florence Pass is 12.7 miles from the TH, 4.8 miles from the Deer Lake base camp. That 9.6 miles round trip day hike is the highest mileage for any day, and we can turn around at any point. We plan to start early each day, take our time, be careful, and stay out of situations where we have to keep marching while fatigued and anxious to reach a destination before sunset.
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