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Post by ukpacker on Feb 13, 2020 7:46:18 GMT -8
March 2019 I rented a chalet in central Scandinavia and used it as a base for snowshoe camping trips and day walks in an area the tourist board seems to have recently labeled as Granslandet, which means border lands. The area is a collection of nature reserves and national parks around the Swedish/Norwegian border, in Sweden ; Toffsingdalens NP, Rogen and Langfjallet nature reserves and in Norway Femundsmarka and Gutulia National Parks. It's an area I first visited in summer over 20 years ago but maybe because we so rarely see significant snow in England I find the winter landscape's of Scandinavia stunning. Granslandet is about 300 miles south of the arctic circle so mid winter would see virtually no sun, my winter trips there have only been mid February to mid March. Temperature range during this period has been huge, over 5 trips I have experienced + 10 C to -30 C
and I had no idea that snow conditions and therefore ease of travel could be so variable and that's the biggest issue with this sort of thing. Being ready for the cold is an obvious requirement and not difficult to prepare for but variable snow conditions are much harder to deal with.
Trusty Soulo in Langfjallets
Storan River between Toffsingdalens and Langfjallets
Langfjallets
I travel on ski trails or snowmobile trails and where the snow is firm enough I go off trail, this is usually easy enough above the tree line where winds harden the snow surface but in the forest a hard enough snow surface to travel over without a trail is granted at the whim of the temperature gods and they can quickly withdraw their favors.
I spend a lot of time and fuel melting snow and cook in this flask, 1/2 filled with pasta and stuff and twice the volume of boiled water results in cooked pasta after 1/2 hour. I prepare lunch in the morning so at least I can have unfrozen food which may even still be hot at midday.
another gratuitous pic of my tent.
People used to try and farm here, these days it's just reindeer herding and tourism.
Langfjallets and Toffsingdalens
Gutulia national Park Norway contains a preserved summer farm at Gutulivollen, in good firm snow conditions it's a few hours walk from the cross country skiing trails. One building is left open as a hikers shelter.. One of the buildings here has graffiti scratched by US airmen as they waited to be smuggled into neutral Sweden by Norwegian resistance during WW2.
While staying at the cabin for two nights it began snowing for 24hrs non stop so getting back to the trail dragging my pulk through soft snow was very slow going, most people would not do this sort of thing on there own at least with other people the rotating leader breaks trail . But who wants to hang around while I take photos?
Femundsmarka in Norway.
This sort of thing has it's risks, water under this hole was 6 foot deep, I got out easily enough but it took me about an hour it seemed to retrieve a snow shoe from the lake bottom. So take care if you try this sort of thing, there's lots can go very wrong!
Thanks, that's all folks have fun in the snow & stay safe.
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Post by Coolkat on Feb 13, 2020 9:26:09 GMT -8
Wow! ukpacker, thanks for the pics and the report. Almost makes me want to try winter packing but I'm just not there yet. Too many long dark hours in a tent. Did you actually fall through the ice, get out, and then go back in after your snow shoe?
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Post by autumnmist on Feb 13, 2020 10:00:33 GMT -8
Beautiful, stunning and inspirational.
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Post by ukpacker on Feb 13, 2020 10:25:02 GMT -8
Wow! ukpacker , thanks for the pics and the report. Almost makes me want to try winter packing but I'm just not there yet. Too many long dark hours in a tent. Did you actually fall through the ice, get out, and then go back in after your snow shoe?
Well I fell through the ice and got out and thought about going back in for the snowshoe but not for long, I have 6 foot long fibre glass poles for the pulk so I cut a birch sapling with a folding saw and tied it to the pole to make a hook and after a lot of trial and error managed to retrieve the shoe. But on the long dark hours in the tent, really I have done a few of these trips now and the coldest weather is high pressure when It's just beautifull, if there is no moon there is a good chance of seeing Northern Lights and if there is a moon the light on the snow is stunning. It can be a lot easier to stay warm outside the tent because whenever I feel chilled I go jogging in snow shoes around a tramped snow circuit and if necessary keep a bottle of very hot water inside my jacket. Windy conditions are difficult though and keep me inside. Though I could allways stay in huts, that's what everyone else does!
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Post by trinity on Feb 13, 2020 15:25:29 GMT -8
Wow. Breathtaking. Thanks for posting.
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reuben
Trail Wise!
Gonna need more Camels at the next refugio...
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Post by reuben on Feb 13, 2020 17:07:08 GMT -8
Awesome.
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toejam
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Post by toejam on Feb 14, 2020 4:23:31 GMT -8
What a beautiful, memorable trip and great photos.
(But I'm glad there will be no snow and temps will stay above freezing when I go out this weekend)
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Westy
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Post by Westy on Feb 14, 2020 7:33:54 GMT -8
Have always dreamed of a ski tour in Sweden! Thanks for the report! Well Done!
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Post by ukpacker on Feb 14, 2020 10:42:00 GMT -8
Have always dreamed of a ski tour in Sweden! Thanks for the report! Well Done!
Hope you get out there sometime, there are many ski trails that go hut to hut and not much avalanche risk, wish I could do it but I would more than likely break some bones! Weather last couple of years has been weirdly warm though, can only hope mild winters don't become the norm.
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gonehiking
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Post by gonehiking on Feb 24, 2020 0:40:23 GMT -8
Really cool trip! Awesome scenery as well, I like how the fells seamlessly blend into the sky!
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reuben
Trail Wise!
Gonna need more Camels at the next refugio...
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Post by reuben on Feb 24, 2020 11:51:47 GMT -8
I should add that, being a minimalist, I quite like images #13 and 24. (hopefully I counted correctly)
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