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Post by lifeadventure on Dec 30, 2019 10:36:02 GMT -8
hi all,
I'm new to the forum and looking for some advice and views from fellow hikers.
We have just over three weeks from leaving Scotland and arriving in San Francisco 20th August to get some great hikes in. We'll probably hire a car to maximise our options. I've done a fair amount of research across a few forums and a lot will depend on our luck getting wilderness permits, but a few steers would be most welcome! We love multi-day backpacking trips where there is opportunity to get away from the crowds, take lots of photos and get out in the fresh air.
Kings Canyon/Sequoia There are so many great looking options here, the traditional Rae Lakes loop looks superb, we'd probably take our time and do it over 5 days. The option over Kearsage pass looks to have even more phenomenal scenery, and we could apply for the permits there earlier than the Rae Lakes loop. There appears to be a higher quota, but with the JMT there could be higher demand. The drive over from San Francisco looks pretty long if we start from Kearsage. The High Sierra Trail also looks phenomenal, but the logistics are rather daunting at the end of the trip.
Yosemite In an ideal world, we'd get permits from Cathedral Lakes Trailhead, the Kings Canyon/Sequoia permits would be available earlier than Yosemite so we'd have something to plan around hopefully. Day 1 - late start and camp Lower Cathedral Lake Day 2 - short day to mid Sunrise Lakes Day 3 - hard day over Clouds Rest camp by junction with the John Muir Trail Day 4 - climb Half Dome if we get the permit included camp as per night 3 Day 5 - follow trail along Merced River and camp close to Bunnel Cascades or Merced Lake Day 6 - long hike up to and camp at Fletcher lake Day 7 - return to Cathedral Lakes trailhead.
I was planning on doing Kings Canyon/Sequoia area first and hoping permits might be easier to come by in September for Yosemite, but Labour Weekend 7/9 will likely be very popular.
I'd be grateful for any comments on plans, particularly order, any improvements on itinerary, recommendations for one hike over another, driving route recommendations. We'll also do some day hikes in Yosemite or at least get the view from Glacier Point.
Thanks for your help! Susan
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Post by johntpenca on Dec 30, 2019 13:48:46 GMT -8
Welcome! You have a pretty nice plan worked out. One thing I will say is that those are pretty, but popular trails. How many will there be in your party? It is a popular time, so easier to get permits if there are only a few members. Reserve in advance. Walk ups are generally easy if the group is small and the schedule is flexible. Once you get a permit, the "where you camp" is flexible. Rangers like an itinerary, but it is not carved in stone. As long as you enter and exit trailheads where and on the dates the permit states, it's all good. You can use mass transit to get to Yosemite and the eastern sierra via BART, Amtrak, YARTS and Eastern Sierra Transport. Others that know more can elaborate. But hiring a car allows for more freedom. You can combine the car with Yarts and EST for the best of both. Also consider a trip from Tuolumne Meadows to Mammoth Lakes (or the other direction). Thousand Island Lake and vicinity is very pretty. The view from Glacier Point is not worth the 1/2 day it takes (my opinion). Tunnel View is the most iconic viewpoint in Yosemite. There are nice hike out of Bridalveil Campground that while not as stunning as other offer more solitude. I have not done any of the routes you mention, but several on this forum have and will no doubt weigh in. I have done Kearsarge Pass and Cathedral Lakes, just not by the routes you have. Whatever you end up doing, if you haven't been to the sierra before, you'll have a great time. By then the mosquitoes will pretty much be gone and rain is generally only in the afternoon. Cathedral Peak:
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Dec 30, 2019 14:13:06 GMT -8
Great choice of location: the Sierra is some of my favorite backcountry. One thing first that’s a moderately unique feature if the American west : the Sierra is black bear country and these clever (they easily open car doors using the handle if it’s not locked) animals have identified the food carried by backpackers as a source of easy calories. The federal parks are concerned that close encounters between a creature that can peel open a steel car door frame like a Pringle’s can and we rather soft humans is best avoided and have established wilderness food storage regulations o severely reduce the possibility for food rewards to bears from backpackers (they have zero interest in people as prey, these are NOT the far more hazardous grizzly bears which is no longer found in California). So in all of Yosemite and certain zones in Sequoia Kings Canyon all food must be stored in hard sided bear resistant food storage containers. The alternative for much of SeKi is hanging a food storage sack high in a tree: but much of your areas of interest are above tree line..., Yosemite www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/bears.htmSequoia Kings Canyon www.nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/bear_bc.htmRoutes with names are very competitive for trailhead entry permits, and Rae Lakes further restricts overnights at each lake. An alternative to consider, though a lollipop from Onion Valley would work (but that drop and climb into and out of Kings Canyon: ugh) so another option with a huge daily quota could be one of the trailheads out of Horsedhoe Meadows: 100 per day split between reserved and walk in. Head north to Crabtree and day hike Mt. Whitney (highest peak in the lower 48 states, great views) then keep north and either loop around the Kern headwaters or go over Forester and beyond, maybe exit out Kearsarge. There are commercial shuttles to get you back. Lone Pine Chamber of Commerce has contact info. lonepinechamber.org/services-available-chamber-of-commerce/Inyo NF trailheads and quotas www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5143453.pdfRecreation dot gov for Inyo Wilderness Permits www.recreation.gov/permits/233262Cathedral is arguably THE most popular trailhead in the entire park. Even beyond the crazy Happy Isles as there’s no climb out of the hot Valley. If you get it, terrific, but otherwise a nice alternative is the Rafferty Creek TH then over either Vogelsang or Tuolumne pass and onward to reverse your loop. As they hold a percentage for walk in applications at the Tuolumne Meadows wilderness office you’ll have choices no matter what. Bear canisters are mandatory in Yosemite, nothing else works and there’s one bear that stays near Snow Creek that has learned even canisters give up their contents when dropped off a cliff onto granite boulders... for a reason no one knows she’s not taught that to her cubs so the rangers just closed her area to overnight camping (too bad great views of Half Dome) and monitor her. For relevant current information in Yosemite nothing beats its webpages. www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htmTrailhead/trail descriptions etc. also a full trailhead reservation report. www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/fulltrailheads.htmThough, of course they hold some for walk ups. The Sierra has some very high elevations and some people take a while to acclimate (staying in top of hydration helps: the air is really dry): so Yosemite with its lower elevation could be a good start, then head over Tioga Pass and down 395 to your next trailhead (some of those passes are very high: Glen at 10,500, Forester at 13,153 and of course Mt. Whitney at 14,505....
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Post by lifeadventure on Dec 30, 2019 14:49:56 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies! It's always so exciting making hiking plans.
John, there are just the two of us, so that will hopefully make things easier. You're right, these are such popular trails that there's not likely to be great solitude - I'm a sucker for a great view though, your shot of Cathedral lake is stunning. Thousand Island lake is definitely on my radar, it looks sublime. We were in Yosemite a long time ago with the kids, but are now looking for a more energetic trip.
High Sierra Fan, thanks for the tips. We have spent the last two summer holidays hiking around Banff and Jasper - amazing scenery and the snow was a bonus! So we have some experience of keeping bear campsites that should put us in a good position. We'll take the opportunity to hire the bear canisters. I think reversing our loop is a good tactic, we can add that option to our application and see if we strike it lucky. Does anyone have a view as to whether the route up Fletcher Creek or Lewis Creek and Bernice Lake is more scenic? I'm sure we'll have lots of questions if we're lucky enough to get our permits.
Thanks again, Susan
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Post by johntpenca on Dec 30, 2019 14:58:07 GMT -8
You're right, these are such popular trails that there's not likely to be great solitude Solitude is a relative term. You won't be alone on those routes, but by most standards, they couldn't be termed "crowded". Busy, but not enough to distract from the beauty.
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Dec 30, 2019 15:10:27 GMT -8
I personally prefer Lewis as for much of the drop the stream runs in a great granite slot which is scenic and there are some side stream waterfalls, and Bernice being off on a dead end except for cross country travel is both quiet and very scenic. I’ve usually taken that drainage for heading towards the High Trail on a tour along the higher country of the Lyell Fork of the Merced returning after going down the Triple fork or sometimes over Red Peak Pass to Glacier Pt.
In the actual backcountry things won’t be crowded. But Cathedral to Clouds Rest and Half Dome to Little Yosemite Valley are both overnight wilderness routes where the trailhead quotas manage traffic and hugely popular day hiking destinations with unlimited use.
You’ll want to read the bear information from Yosemite and Sequoia Kings Canyon. Black bears are very regional in behavior and they’re a long ways from the Canadian Rockies populations.
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Post by johntpenca on Dec 30, 2019 16:06:28 GMT -8
If you have been to Yosemite Valley years ago, the crowds there these days are intense from May through October. Spend as little time in the valley proper as possible. A good side day hike as you go from Tuolumne Meadows area hiking to the east side is 20 Lakes Basin, pretty flat trail at 9,000 feet. If you can, make reservations and spend a night at Tioga Pass Resort. They were hammered by snow damage in 2017 and rebuilding. You'll need to stay on top of it to get reservations if they open in 2020. Not a "must do" thing, but it has charm and great food, even if you don't spend the night. www.tiogapassresort.com/The Mobil Mart in Lee Vining has good food one wouldn't expect at a gas station. Fish tacos and general fusion food. It's kind of a novelty. If there is a crowded parking lot and/or tour buses in the parking lot, not worth dealing with the crowd. Also a good place to fill up the gas tank if you are driving. www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g32617-d582887-Reviews-Tioga_Gas_Mart_Whoa_Nellie_Deli-Lee_Vining_California.htmlNicely's in Lee Vining has more traditional american food without the gong show. www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g32617-d532494-Reviews-Nicely_s-Lee_Vining_California.htmlThese are some of the better places to eat between the west entrance of Yosemite and June Lake. Mammoth and Bishop are another story entirely. There is a good hostel in Bishop for an inexpensive night's stay if that's your thing. www.thehostelcalifornia.com/en-gb
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markskor
Trail Wise!
Mammoth Lakes & Tuolumne Meadows...living the dream
Posts: 651
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Post by markskor on Dec 30, 2019 18:09:26 GMT -8
Ambitious plan...do-able but, why hike every waking moment? Suggest dropping the Rae Lakes section and spending all your hiking time exploring in Yosemite... and sprinkle in a few "zero days" along the route. misc. thoughts - as somewhat familiar with Yosemite.
After arriving TM, get your wilderness permit first thing...(or at least go visit the TM permit shack and see how it all works) and then, permit in hand, you will not need your car again...so legal to leave/lock up your clean car: in the TM Permit lot, somewhere/ anywhere on 120 (all 4 wheels must be over the white line), maybe up Lembert Dome road, in the old gas station lot next to the store, (or just use YARTS) and spend that first night or two (Day 0) at TM backpacker camp (just behind the TM store) to acclimate some, as you are now at 8600'. Safe...bear boxes aplenty...no reservation required...$6 pp/ per night...never fills up. Breakfast at TM Grill and early hiker bus from store parking lot to Cathedral Lake TH. Day 1 - late start and camp Lower Cathedral Lake...backside Upper Cathedral is also nice...might make the next day's trek a bit easier too. Day 2 - not that short a day to mid Sunrise Lakes (BTW, Middle Sunrise not that nice)...Stay Lower Sunrise Lake instead. Day 3 - easy day from Lower Sunrise over Clouds Rest - and climb Half Dome too (if we get the permit.) Instead of two days here for both CR and HD...not really that hard to do both in one day as in this direction, all mostly downhill, and stay that night on the Merced in LYV campground...or better yet, Moraine Dome waterslide, 2 miles further up the river. Day 4 - follow trail along Merced River and camp Merced Lake (a littly boggy), or even better, stay at Washburn. (worth a zero day here). Day 5 - semi-long hike up to and camp at Bernice Lake. Day 6 - short day up over the pass and then you can have time to explore Fletcher/ Townsley/ Voglesang area. (another zero?) Day 7 - Rafferty Creek trail back to TM and car.
FYI, reversing this loop works well too. mark
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Post by johntpenca on Dec 30, 2019 18:57:35 GMT -8
^^^ was hoping you would show up on this thread markskor . Will you be working at the TM store again next year? Yosemite is not my strong area other that Lyell Canyon.
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markskor
Trail Wise!
Mammoth Lakes & Tuolumne Meadows...living the dream
Posts: 651
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Post by markskor on Dec 30, 2019 19:46:49 GMT -8
Will you be working at the TM store again next year? Yes...If all goes as planned, (my 2020 bid was accepted), I should be again slaving away as a cashier up at the big canvas tent/store in TM. If anyone needs anything easy...a short ride, a place to store some food, maybe a hot shower, etc...stop on in and say hi! Or, if I'm off duty (my regular shifts - 11:00 - 8:00...off Sunday and Monday), come visit the employee tents behind the store, I am in tent # 9...AKA the Twilight Lounge in Club Med. BTW, I drink good bourbon. mark
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Post by lifeadventure on Dec 31, 2019 2:58:30 GMT -8
hi All, thanks for the great tips and info. Mark, your suggested amends sound great if we succeed in getting permits; Washburn lake looks very pretty. Looking at all the amazing scenery and options, it's hard to contain my desire to squeeze everything in; it's a long way to come from Scotland, but I'm sure we'll return to explore more of the Sierras. Our tent is great in windy conditions www.vango.co.uk/gb/camping/1131-scafell-300.html, but I'm worried that it's going to be tough to pitch on the rocky, granite surfaces. A dome tent is much better suited to those ground conditions. Do you think we should be okay with a tunnel tent? We'll hopefully get the chance to say thanks in person when we make it to TM. High Sierra Fan, thanks for your view on Lewis and we will be very cautious with the different bear behaviours in Yosemite. John, the suggestions for eating and sleeping look great, we'll be sure to check them out. Happy New Year when it comes everyone! Susan
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toejam
Trail Wise!
Hiking to raise awareness
Posts: 1,795
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Post by toejam on Dec 31, 2019 5:46:04 GMT -8
To toss some other ideas out here … The Yosemite hike I'm dreaming about these days is hiking north out of Tuolumne Meadows, away from the John Muir Trail/Clouds Rest/Half Dome crowds. Lots of beautiful country and easier permits that way. The drive over from San Francisco looks pretty long if we start from Kearsage. I think all of us are fans of the little towns and trailhead access along US Hwy 395. It's a much different destination than the west side of Yosemite. Lots of great trails going into the mountains from near Mammoth and Bishop. The High Sierra Trail also looks phenomenal, but the logistics are rather daunting at the end of the trip. You're right - it's ridiculous. But there are loops and out & back hikes you can arrange that see the good stuff without a 300 mile shuttle.
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Post by johntpenca on Dec 31, 2019 6:17:55 GMT -8
Our tent is great in windy conditions www.vango.co.uk/gb/camping/1131-scafell-300.html, but I'm worried that it's going to be tough to pitch on the rocky, granite surfaces. A dome tent is much better suited to those ground conditions. Do you think we should be okay with a tunnel tent? We'll hopefully get the chance to say thanks in person when we make it to TM. You will be fine. Use rocks to anchor the tent guyouts rather than stakes. I don't carry stakes in the sierra. Tie long loops of para cord to the tent guyouts and loop them over heavy rocks. I'll post up a pic later. As toejam notes, there are a plethora of backpacking options in the sierra. We could flood you with our favorites, but I think you've selected a good intro to the area. Do you want other suggestions? As a side note, lodging anywhere in the sierra can be hard to come by at that time, especially on weekends. It is very busy with both US and Euro tourists. If you get your itinerary nailed down hard enough to know what nights you will want to stay in a hotel, it is best to make reservations as soon as possible so you don't find yourself going from hotel to hotel trying to find a room. When you decide which towns you will be staying in, we can make some hotel recommendations based on your price range. Best to be in the back country on weekends and use weekdays for town visits to avoid crowds at hotels, restaurants and roads.
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Post by johntpenca on Dec 31, 2019 7:18:52 GMT -8
Here is a very good book for understanding bear behavior. I don't worry about black bears much. They are opportunists looking for an easy dinner, not eating humans. But it is a good idea to understand them. There is no need for bear spray in the sierra. I believe it is illegal in Yosemite; could be wrong. www.amazon.com/Bear-Attacks-Their-Causes-Avoidance/dp/149302941X
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Post by johntpenca on Dec 31, 2019 7:34:55 GMT -8
Tent Guy out w/o stakes: Looking at your tent, you should only need them on the lower four corners and maybe a few of the arch points. Carry some extra cord in case you need additional security. The sierra doesn't usually see high winds except in narrow canyons or on benches above tree line. But there can be times..... Tie some para cord to your tent guy out points: Tie a loop on the free end: Pull the cord through the free end loop to form a sliding loop: Put a rock in the sliding loop and pull the the line tight by moving the rock away from the tent:
Not a very good pic of the setup, but you get the idea:
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