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Post by nstone on Jan 24, 2019 14:07:00 GMT -8
Permit applications open soon, so I'm thinking about a solo trip this summer. This would be my longest hike in a while by a couple of orders of magnitude. Looking for any tips and advice on any topic (gear, campsites, food, resupply, navigation, etc.). If you have experience on the JMT, what should a newb know!
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zeke
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Peekaboo slot 2023
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Post by zeke on Jan 24, 2019 15:13:17 GMT -8
Buy Wenk's book. It has more info than you can absorb in one reading. The Muir trail is a constant uphill, downhill hike, with a hiker covering the same 1000 feet of elevation several times a day. Several 12K passes, and the one 13K. Train for long days. Use as many resupply points as you can afford. The more the better. Some places will have food for sale, or hiker boxes where you can rummage for free stuff others didn't want. Get you base weight as low as you can afford. Stay within your own safety zone, but cut as much as possible. You'll be carrying 5-7 days worth of food, if not more. Bear canisters are required. Get the Tom Harrison maps. 11 sheets, IIRC, and worth the time pouring over them before and during the hike. |
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Post by johntpenca on Jan 24, 2019 15:21:06 GMT -8
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Post by johntpenca on Jan 24, 2019 16:47:25 GMT -8
Are you going south to north or vice versa?
Resupplies are at Mammoth Lakes, Vermillion Valley Resort and the Ranch. One can also detour at Kearsarge Pass to get a hitch into Independence. Or Bishop Pass to Bishop.
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Jan 24, 2019 20:06:50 GMT -8
Apply using the rolling lottery for southbound out of Yosemite for the classic Happy Isles start (three days of food to carry with your first resupply at Tuolumne Meadows post office). If (when) that’s not successful go to recreation dot Gov and reserve an entry at one of the two Cottonwoods (lakes or pass) Horseshoe Meadows wilderness entry permits from Inyo National Forest. That’s, unlike the Yosemite application process (an on-line application but to a lottery) , a simple online reservation system where you see the available dates, select one, then fill out the rest of the form and pay the fee completing the reservation. Then it’s waiting for you at the Lone Pine Eastern Sierra visitor’s center. Pretty much like an on-line hotel reservation. Northbound like that is maybe 30 miles longer and you divert to the Whitnry summit with a day hike. The length to the first resupply is longe which can be a food challenge. But there are some backcountry storage lockers to supplement your canister capacity the first few days. A great summary of the Inyo process. ingasadventures.com/deciphering-the-inyo-national-forest-permit-system/There are public transport connections between the two trailheads YARTS and Eastern Sierra Transport authority. I prefer walking to my vehicle to simplify exit issues. yarts.comwww.estransit.comOh and most people seem to find 21 days about right. That 220-250 miles (the “official” mileage of 212 ends at the summit of Mt. Whitney, NOT at a trailhead); But it has been done in under four. And over 48. |
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Post by johntpenca on Jan 26, 2019 18:45:00 GMT -8
I forgot about the Tuolumne resupply.
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Post by hikerchick395 on Jan 27, 2019 9:58:01 GMT -8
Tom Harrison maps are nice to carry. Had them on our second hike. Wenk's book is a good read too.
I drew graphs, figured mileage between waypoints, had every meal planned out for the first time. No computers, no advice. Planning was fun. Since we went on the hike once, the second one almost needed no planning. Except for food resupplies. On our first 28 day hike we had one resupply (!) The second we had four. Transportation is much easier now too. (But we live right in the transportation corridor of this particular hike.)
We carried heavy packs and didn't regret it. Our overnight camps were mostly planned for the scenic value and where we wanted to explore after setting up camp.
Be sure to make it your own hike. And take as much time as you can.
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Post by nstone on Jan 27, 2019 10:19:14 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies! Anyone know about permitting for someone entering the trail between Yosemite and Whitney? My wife might try to join me for the final week or so.
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markskor
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Mammoth Lakes & Tuolumne Meadows...living the dream
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Post by markskor on Jan 27, 2019 10:34:00 GMT -8
As a past Muir alumni ...my advice -
1 - Be flexible. You can read all the books you want pre-hike - yes helpful to be informed - but as to pre-establishing firm campsites before...(lots of little red X's on Topos)...while always fun to plan beforehand, forget about it. It is the trail that sets the agenda, not you.
2 - Take your time and savor all the trail has to offer. Maybe spend an extra day Tuolumne...get a milkshake at Reds...Maybe overnight a spell at VVR - (make sure to bring your plastic.)...do not be afraid to go off-trail a bit and visit a hot springs.
3 - If possible, schedule a zero day each and every week and then, also schedule another unscheduled zero/nero day each week too, somewhere/anywhere that pleases you...lots of options just too nice to walk on past.
4 - Listen to others. Even when solo, you will seldom be alone. Soon enough you will fall in with other like-minded hikers. Instead of always pressing on, listen to what's been visited...epic spots to see/ zero at...the trail has lots of local knowledge. BTW, the trail has been re-routed in spots 20+ times over the years. Some profess to be Muir purists - have to hike every Muir mile as currently book-routed but... who is to say where the true trail goes....only HI to Mt. Whitney.
5 - Go light as possible. You do not need a trowel or that little whisk broom or extra shoes. You also do not need 4 sets of clothes...accept that you will get dirty and probably smell too...bathe. It will probably get cold some nights - get a good warm bag or quilt. You do not want a giant backpack with a 2-story attic either. A size 60 worked... for me...an 85 liter is way too large.
6 - It will probably rain some...be prepared.
7 - Share.
To close - having done this trail over a half dozen times...shortest was 16 days and the longest 32...the longer one was way better.
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markskor
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Mammoth Lakes & Tuolumne Meadows...living the dream
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Post by markskor on Jan 27, 2019 12:03:39 GMT -8
Just to add...
I preferred going South as the Portal to Trail Camp section is a lot to chew off that first day of hiking...new legs and a heavy pack.
FWIW, if starting at HI, that second day...LYV to Sunrise really sucks...as bad a day as you will see on the entire trail. If you can get through this stretch and still be smiling, (a good barometer), probably have a great time the remainder of the trip too.
However, as getting HI permits is the fly in the ointment, instead...Leave your car in the Valley (Curry Orchard) and YARTS up to TM.
Start out - get a "next day" permit there...yeah you have to get in line there early but they are available, and it gives you time to acclimate some. From there go south to the Portal. After devouring a Mooseburger (ask), you can then hitch straight up 395, back to TM again and hike the remaining TM - HI stretch last...almost all downhill. Still you have done all the trail in total and you avoided the Half Dome crush as now hiking opposite all those coming up the Mist (BTW, along with CR, another must-see spot but not actually on the purist's JMT agenda).
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toejam
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Post by toejam on Jan 27, 2019 21:36:03 GMT -8
What Mark said. Be flexible. Relish the unexpected. Have a great time!
The easy way to go north, and easier for permits, is to start at Horseshoe Meadow and catch the PCT by going over Cottonwood Pass or New Army Pass. Climb Whitney day 3 or 4.
There are lots of places to catch the trail in the middle. The most popular for the end of a southbound trip would be Onion Valley/Kearsarge Pass.
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Post by High Sierra Fan on Jan 27, 2019 23:36:11 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies! Anyone know about permitting for someone entering the trail between Yosemite and Whitney? My wife might try to join me for the final week or so. That’s probably easiest as in east side entrance and those are all Inyo National Forest you get through the real time recreation dot gov online process. There’s a clickable map showing all of them at recreation dot gov. Plus this list: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5143453.pdf |
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Post by johntpenca on Jan 28, 2019 18:31:25 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies! Anyone know about permitting for someone entering the trail between Yosemite and Whitney? My wife might try to join me for the final week or so. Where? The easiest way to meet you is around the Mammoth area. Further south would be over Kearsarge Pass to the Charlotte Lakes area. Assuming she will be coming in from the east side. Coming in from the west, don't have much knowledge, Getting a permit out of the Lone Pine ranger station should not be a problem. |
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toejam
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Post by toejam on Jan 29, 2019 5:19:03 GMT -8
Mammoth/Reds Meadow is the easiest access to the trail - it's about 4-7 days of walking from the north end of the JMT, about 2 weeks from the south end.
Most people do o.k. going over Kearsarge Pass - one of the easier passes. Piute Pass is relatively easy but a long hike to middle of the JMT. Lots of people go from South Lake over Bishop Pass, but it's really high and can be hard to get a permit. Some passes to the JMT like Taboose & Sawmill are big climbs with rough trails and should be avoided by most people.
The best west side access to the JMT I'm familiar with is catching a boat ride across either Lake Thomas Edison or Florence Lake. These routes put you right in the middle of the trail, or ~ a week and a half from either end. Long drive on a narrow, winding road to those lakes.
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markskor
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Post by markskor on Jan 29, 2019 10:58:46 GMT -8
Not mentioned as an access point but Tuolumne Meadows works too.
As have no idea how much free time your SO has to join you...3 days down to Valley via Sunrise TH.
For me, as have done that section repeatedly, one JMT years ago, my (now X) wife joined me too. TM - Voglesang - Bernice - Merced and down...bagged HD along the way, and exited HI - still generally doing parts of JMT. I gave up being a purist years ago.
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