Twilight Creek - West Needle Mountains - Weminuche Wildernes
Sept 2, 2017 14:04:03 GMT -8
walkswithblackflies, Westy, and 4 more like this
Post by Lamebeaver on Sept 2, 2017 14:04:03 GMT -8
Prelude: When my boys were little, I read them stories out of H. Glenn Carson’s “A Guide to Treasure in Colorado”. – a group of short stories, most involving lost mines. When they were older, we actually incorporated searching for some of these into our backpacking trips. This trip involved one such story. Here's a bit of the story of Levi Carson's Lost Mine
My oldest son and I had attempted to hike to the headwaters of Twilight Creek twice. The second attempt was made after I spoke to someone who had actually been there. There is a ½ mile burn area that is a tangled mess of downed trees. I wasn’t in the best of shape, and my legs started cramping up as we fought our way through this area.
Last week, I gave it one final attempt myself. I am in much better shape that I was two years ago and 30 pounds lighter. My fully loaded pack, which included a gold pan and fishing rod, weighed 43 ½ lbs. (including water).
Saturday morning I left my car at the Purgatory Fats trailhead at 11:30. The hike down to the Animas river was easy, and the water was low and clear, so the crossing was not difficult. I walked across the Flats and easily found the old hunting trail that ascends the west ridge of West Needle Mountain. This trail is not in the best condition, but is relatively easy to follow. The weather was warm and I sweated profusely, drinking homemade Gatorade to keep hydrated. I stopped at one of the two clear-water ponds to replenish my supply. There is a ring of boggy moss around the pond that flexes like a trampoline as you near the edge of the lily pad filled pond. If feels like if you jumped hard and broke through you might go 6’ down. I did not test this. I continued to work my way up the ridge, pausing periodically to locate the trail, which becomes difficult to follow at times. Finally, I reached the burn area. I had already decided on a strategy of dropping off the ridge slightly on the North side to work my way around the burn area, but I miscalculated and dropped too far. I ended up way below the trail, which follows the ridge, on a steep slope with rough going. Nightfall found me in a somewhat precarious situation. I was making very slow progress, and my legs were starting to cramp up. I ended up bivouacking on a ledge that was only 20 degrees, with just enough space for my sleeping bag, and my feet pushed up against an aspen tree.
The next morning I managed to finish climbing up the ridge and relocated the trail. I followed this for a couple more miles before cutting over to the lake. I was a little too high, which meant I needed to make my way across a couple of additional ridges, but I finally arrived at the lake. It was well worth the effort. There are several good camping spots. The one I chose was on a hill overlooking the lake with a spectacular view. After making camp, I assembled my fishing pole. I had heard that the fishing was good, and it was…as good as I’ve seen in Colorado. I’d say I caught a fish about every other cast. Not every fish was a keeper, but it only took me about 5 minutes to catch two nice 12” Cutthroats for dinner.
The following day I spent hiking all over the South face of S. Twilight Peak. I also did some gold panning around the lake (with no luck). Fishing again for my dinner, I caught 3 12” Cuts in about 10 minutes.
Tuesday, I hiked to the upper lake, which doesn’t appear to have any fish in it. I climbed up West Needle Mountain, almost to the peak, and explored more of the rugged terrain. I then hiked back to camp and prepared for the trip down. I spent more of my time on trail, but still lost my way several times. I eventually found my way back to the peak of the ridge, and followed the trail back down. Entering the burn area, I did not drop off nearly as far, and this made for easy going. It was still a pain fighting my way through, but weaving slowly to avoid the worst of it, I’d say it took me about an hour to cover this nasty ½ mile long mess. I arrived back at Purgatory Flats at 9:00 navigating by headlamp, and made camp under a large pine.
Crossing the river and hiking up the hill the next day I reached my car around 10:00AM and began the long drive back to Denver, stopping in Palisade to pick up a case of peaches.
Overall, it was a great trip. I didn't see another soul east of the Animas River. Beyond a doubt one of the more difficult I've done, but it was a real feeling of accomplishment to finally make it to the lake. Scratch one more off the bucket list.
A few pictures:
This is where I spend the first night.
Second and third night, a big improvement
Dinner
The ridge I needed to follow up (and down) is in the lower left moving down to the center in this picture
The connecting ridge between South Twilight Peak and West Needle Mountain
My oldest son and I had attempted to hike to the headwaters of Twilight Creek twice. The second attempt was made after I spoke to someone who had actually been there. There is a ½ mile burn area that is a tangled mess of downed trees. I wasn’t in the best of shape, and my legs started cramping up as we fought our way through this area.
Last week, I gave it one final attempt myself. I am in much better shape that I was two years ago and 30 pounds lighter. My fully loaded pack, which included a gold pan and fishing rod, weighed 43 ½ lbs. (including water).
Saturday morning I left my car at the Purgatory Fats trailhead at 11:30. The hike down to the Animas river was easy, and the water was low and clear, so the crossing was not difficult. I walked across the Flats and easily found the old hunting trail that ascends the west ridge of West Needle Mountain. This trail is not in the best condition, but is relatively easy to follow. The weather was warm and I sweated profusely, drinking homemade Gatorade to keep hydrated. I stopped at one of the two clear-water ponds to replenish my supply. There is a ring of boggy moss around the pond that flexes like a trampoline as you near the edge of the lily pad filled pond. If feels like if you jumped hard and broke through you might go 6’ down. I did not test this. I continued to work my way up the ridge, pausing periodically to locate the trail, which becomes difficult to follow at times. Finally, I reached the burn area. I had already decided on a strategy of dropping off the ridge slightly on the North side to work my way around the burn area, but I miscalculated and dropped too far. I ended up way below the trail, which follows the ridge, on a steep slope with rough going. Nightfall found me in a somewhat precarious situation. I was making very slow progress, and my legs were starting to cramp up. I ended up bivouacking on a ledge that was only 20 degrees, with just enough space for my sleeping bag, and my feet pushed up against an aspen tree.
The next morning I managed to finish climbing up the ridge and relocated the trail. I followed this for a couple more miles before cutting over to the lake. I was a little too high, which meant I needed to make my way across a couple of additional ridges, but I finally arrived at the lake. It was well worth the effort. There are several good camping spots. The one I chose was on a hill overlooking the lake with a spectacular view. After making camp, I assembled my fishing pole. I had heard that the fishing was good, and it was…as good as I’ve seen in Colorado. I’d say I caught a fish about every other cast. Not every fish was a keeper, but it only took me about 5 minutes to catch two nice 12” Cutthroats for dinner.
The following day I spent hiking all over the South face of S. Twilight Peak. I also did some gold panning around the lake (with no luck). Fishing again for my dinner, I caught 3 12” Cuts in about 10 minutes.
Tuesday, I hiked to the upper lake, which doesn’t appear to have any fish in it. I climbed up West Needle Mountain, almost to the peak, and explored more of the rugged terrain. I then hiked back to camp and prepared for the trip down. I spent more of my time on trail, but still lost my way several times. I eventually found my way back to the peak of the ridge, and followed the trail back down. Entering the burn area, I did not drop off nearly as far, and this made for easy going. It was still a pain fighting my way through, but weaving slowly to avoid the worst of it, I’d say it took me about an hour to cover this nasty ½ mile long mess. I arrived back at Purgatory Flats at 9:00 navigating by headlamp, and made camp under a large pine.
Crossing the river and hiking up the hill the next day I reached my car around 10:00AM and began the long drive back to Denver, stopping in Palisade to pick up a case of peaches.
Overall, it was a great trip. I didn't see another soul east of the Animas River. Beyond a doubt one of the more difficult I've done, but it was a real feeling of accomplishment to finally make it to the lake. Scratch one more off the bucket list.
A few pictures:
This is where I spend the first night.
Second and third night, a big improvement
Dinner
The ridge I needed to follow up (and down) is in the lower left moving down to the center in this picture
The connecting ridge between South Twilight Peak and West Needle Mountain