toejam
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Post by toejam on Mar 5, 2017 9:02:48 GMT -8
Here’s a story that’s been kind of consuming me lately. I don’t know how it ends. The Ventana Wilderness is the huge wilderness area in the mountains above Big Sur (a wild coastal area named for being south, sur, of Monterey, CA). Its rocky peaks jut nearly a mile high just a short distance from the Pacific Ocean, its Redwood forests are primeval, and its hot springs are legendary. Its trails are hikeable all year but ideal fall – spring. It gets a lot of love from people in the Bay area, to whom it is sur. Ventana’s kid brother to the south (one could say More Sur) is the Silver Peak Wilderness. Smaller in size then Ventana by 200,000 acres, its not-so-rocky peaks rise to 3500’, it has the southernmost stands of struggling coastal redwoods and no backcountry hot springs. It has incredible ocean views from its trails, reliable water sources and comfortable campsites. But its remoteness ensures that even its main trails stay brushy and challenging. The first backpacking trip I did after moving to California was in the Silver Peak Wilderness. It was only an hour and a half to the trailhead from my place in Pismo Beach and the weather was perfect, although it had started to snow in the Sierra Nevada. I discovered redwood stands, world-class views, and picnic tables in wilderness campsites. I came home with a tick and poison oak on skin that was never exposed, and I was very happy. It makes a great weekend trip and I’ve been back a couple times a year. View from trail on my first trip. Last winter I hiked through a meadow called Dutra Flat that has an overgrown trail leading up to the coastal ridge road on the east boundary of the wilderness. I thought this was a great place for a volunteer trail project – the hike in was just under 5 miles, there was room for lots of people to camp in the meadow, and the work started immediately from the camp. Dutra Flat Brushy trail I was busy with other things in the spring, and in the fall the whole Monterey Ranger District of the forest was closed because of strapped resources while dealing with the Soberanes Fire. But I decided to go ahead and pick a date to have this project, start working on it, and see if I could make it happen. There’s been a half-hearted effort to get the biggest volunteer organizations in the northern and southern sections of the Los Padres National Forest together on some projects. The northern group, Ventana Wilderness Alliance, gets lots of eager, prospective volunteers for their projects and regularly turns people away. The southern group I’m involved with, Los Padres Forest Association, are happy to get a half a dozen people to show up and usually provide beer and food in our gratitude. I reached out across the Hearst Ranch to my VWA brethren. The first obstacle was that my organization doesn’t have an agreement with the Monterey Ranger District to do volunteer projects, and I’m not a recognized trail crew leader with the VWA. I went on a short trail project in the Silver Peak Wilderness on a soggy Saturday, showed my face to the VWA leaders, and talked one into sponsoring my Dutra Flat project. I wrote up the particulars and he posted it on their meetup group. There were over 20 people signed up a few days later. The most accomplished volunteer with VWA expressed concern about too much impact with such a large group (I thought impact what the whole purpose of a trail clearing project). We also posted the project on the southern meetup site and to date there is only one person signed up, who has since communicated to me that they will not actually be able to make the trip.
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toejam
Trail Wise!
Hiking to raise awareness
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Post by toejam on Mar 5, 2017 17:31:21 GMT -8
My first volunteer trail projects were in the San Rafael Wilderness with a guy named Mike Smith, who had goats that packed gear, food, and iced beer into the wilderness. The goat-supported trips became the stuff of local lore, and I hoped to get Mike & the goats along on my Silver Peak Wilderness trip. But Mike’s legendary goat herd got old and the best of the bunch retired. He got some new goats, but they are young knuckleheads that can’t be trusted to calmly follow the herd, so Mike wasn’t willing to bring them along. We’ll often have horses and mules pack stuff into our remote trail projects, so I reached out to the usual suspects. One couple insists on cooking breakfast & dinner for the crew, besides packing in all the food & beer, but they had other plans for that weekend. My pal Kathleen was into the idea. She lives near me and is a retired forest ranger who’s always up for a trail project, or any other kind of hiking or horseback adventure. Horses can’t follow the normal hiking route to Dutra Flat at this time because of a redwood down on the trail. It’s been there for years, but it’s really big and on a steep slope, and no one has been willing to cut it out. It’s not really a problem for hikers and the goats wouldn’t mind, but packed horses won’t get through or around. I’m familiar with another way in and arranged to hike it with Kathleen to see if she thought it would work for her & her animals. Redwood across trail We drove up CA 1 with Kathleen’s husband Rich, who hopped on his bicycle and rode 70 miles home while we hiked. We followed a dirt ranch road up the ridge from Ragged Point Inn. The road wasn’t too muddy despite recent rain, and the scenery was breathtaking. The old mine road through the wilderness from the ridge to Dutra Flat had some minor issues that would stop a horse, but Kathleen liked the route, and I pledged to return before the project and clear the obstructions. Trail blockage
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toejam
Trail Wise!
Hiking to raise awareness
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Post by toejam on Mar 5, 2017 18:08:30 GMT -8
I figured most of the people signed up for the trip lived up north and would normally drive the winding coast highway CA 1 to the trailhead. By early February, landslides shut down the highway. Some pictures I saw on Big Sur Kate’s blog looked serious and I warned everybody to watch the situation and be prepared for the road to stay closed. Some people dropped out, but more signed on and the number of volunteers never dropped below 20. In the next weeks more rain made the situation worse and the Pfeiffer Canyon Bridge was broken beyond repair. A few who signed up for the trip are driving from the south, but most are faced with a long drive – about two and a half hours from Monterey. That’s about the same as it would take to drive from Santa Barbara, where many of my trailwork pals live. So far the only Barbareno interested is the LPFA coordinator I’ve been working with to plan this thing. Their loss. I’m no longer worried about crowd so big we trash a campsite. Dutra Flat is a really big place where we can spread out if there’s a lot of us, and if it’s a small group, just a few would do a lot of good on the trail we’re working. My biggest concern is if it keeps raining and gets so swampy we have no business being back there. It rained 0.75” last night, and the project is in two weeks.
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toejam
Trail Wise!
Hiking to raise awareness
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Post by toejam on Mar 5, 2017 21:13:50 GMT -8
I made it back to Ragged Point two weeks later with intention to clear the old mine road enough to get packed horses through, camp at Dutra Flat, and explore the area a little. The ranch road up the ridge was significantly muddier, but a small bulldozer had been up there to clear a few small slides. I took only a pair of loppers and a folding hand saw (Silky Big Boy – can’t say enough good things). I attacked the larger issues on the trail, but took time for some of the smaller ones as well. These brushy trails may not get worked again for a long time. Mike Smith says trail work is like drinking from a spittoon – it looks like you’re getting carried away, but really it’s just hard to stop once you get going. Before After By 4:00 pm I was at the ugliest blockage, which is only a few hundred yards from the Flats. I worked it for an hour and ran out of gas. I wasn’t close to being done and it was disheartening. The area around the camp was much wetter than two weeks previous. Walking from the fire ring to the spring soaked my trail runners. I washed up in the spring, bandaged some wounds, built a small fire with wet wood, and decided to look for some forearm protection sleeves for the next time I did this. Got a little rain in the night, but got lots of good sleep. Hot breakfast & coffee had me ready to try to finish the job, so I popped some ibuprofen and got started. I worked well without sustaining any significant injuries, and got the job done in 2 ½ hours. There is another trail out of camp that was used by the Dutra Homestead to reach the coast. I’d heard it probably wasn’t good for horses, but might be a worthwhile route for hikers if the highway stays closed and we can’t get to the trailhead we planned to use. The old Dutra use trail is about a mile shorter than the old mine road the horses will follow. Neither of these trails are on the official maps. The “use trail” leaves the “main trail” near where the 1921 USGS topo shows the homestead. Both trails are hard to detect here in a big grassy meadow and neither gets much traffic. But the use trail showed signs of use and I didn’t have too much trouble following the faint, narrow trail deep into a canyon, across a calf-deep creek, and up the other side to the ranch road. An oak tree fell on the trail at the end where it enters a meadow, and I took a little time clearing and flagging an opening so I can find it again coming the other way. Homestead meadow View from Dutra Use Trail I felt really satisfied when I reached the car parked along the highway at Ragged Point Inn. Barriers block the highway just past the resort. I heard on the local news that Ragged Point Inn had to let some employees go because business is suffering with the road closed. So I patronized the grill, where my son worked for a summer, and celebrated with a chili cheese dog, a soda, and sun on my back. The drive home was really scenic. There were elephant seals at Piedras Blancas, zebras on Hearst Ranch, and the view to Moro Rock from Cayucos was spectacular. I once drove a friend for a day hike in the Silver Peak Wilderness and asked her if it was worth the drive. “The drive is worth the drive,” was her answer. So true. I think that every time.
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toejam
Trail Wise!
Hiking to raise awareness
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Post by toejam on Mar 11, 2017 9:26:18 GMT -8
My trip is still on, and the road is still closed. So we are down to 14 attendees on the meetup and I expect a few of those won't show up. I was vetted by the VWA & Monterey Ranger District because they couldn't keep one of their experienced leaders involved. Gotta keep the government happy.
It hasn't been raining and the weather forecast looks good! I'm picking up tools, hardhats, gloves, a radio, and other supplies this weekend. I booked a room at Ragged Point Inn to stay on Thursday night with my wife. Then I'll mosey across the highway in the morning and get started. I'm pumped!
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Post by Coolkat on Mar 13, 2017 5:29:13 GMT -8
toejam, I hope that you have a good time as you seem excited about it and that is cool to hear. I've thought about volunteering for trail work around here but it never seems to meet my schedule so I'm glad that there are people like you out there that both have the time and willingness.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Mar 13, 2017 21:35:58 GMT -8
Way to persist, toejam ! It's in our minds to do some trail work trips post-retirement, though we have some concerns about the work, especially with regard to shoulders But seems like there's always something a body can do without hurting yourself, so I'm sure we'll find a place!
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toejam
Trail Wise!
Hiking to raise awareness
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Post by toejam on Mar 14, 2017 4:42:30 GMT -8
rebeccad look into the Ventana Wilderness Alliance. You can bring the kids too. Their meetup group is slow right now because of the Soberanes Fire closure, but they have a bunch of leaders who know what they're doing. On these volunteer trips we don't work like CCC or ACE groups you'll regularly see in the Sierra - no carrying boulders and building steps, etc. The injuries I usually deal with are scratches & punctures from reaching inside bushes to cut them down and drag them off the trail.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Mar 14, 2017 6:54:03 GMT -8
look into the Ventana Wilderness Alliance. Thanks, I'll check that out--though we may be moving elsewhere in retirement, and might just look at places we want to go. Cutting brush is definitely better than moving boulders, though I have a horror of poison oak (and my spouse ought to, since he's the one who gets a rash just by getting near the stuff). You can bring the kids too. Kind of moved past that. Now that the boys are old enough to be useful, they are moving out
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toejam
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Hiking to raise awareness
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Post by toejam on Mar 24, 2017 1:22:36 GMT -8
The earth continued to spin around the sun, and the calendar marked the imminent start of the project. I collected tools, hats & gloves, food & drinks, radios & a call sign, a key to the locked gate, and had lots of phone & email conversations with interested parties. I breathed deeply and smiled as things fell into place serendipitously. Prospective attendees dropped out at an alarming rate, but I knew I could count on a few from the south. The day before the project my wife & I had a late breakfast in Morro Bay, watched sea otters by the rock, and enjoyed the view as we drove up the coast to our room at Ragged Point Inn, across the road from the trailhead. The room and meals were better than expected and ideal weather made the premium price a bargain. The views we enjoyed can’t be reserved with a credit card. View from room at Ragged Point Inn After breakfast I crossed the highway, unlocked the gate, and waited for my crew. Four intrepid volunteers showed up. I gave them tools, told them to be safe & have fun, and sent them packing up the road. Then I ran back across the road to the room phone to tell the forest we were in service. Crew starting hike Crew at top of ridge Six miles with a 2000’ climb is a long hike under a full pack, and longer when you realize you could have driven the first four miles. The original plan used a shorter trail inaccessible because of the road closure, and our route was a backup. During planning I wouldn’t have presumed to allow a group of 20 to drive up the rough ranch road so it wasn’t considered, and I wasn’t inclined to deviate from an approved plan when safety and the government were involved. But dang it, I could have hauled my little band most of the way in my XTerra. We hiked slowly, taking in the world-class scenery, and arrived at camp after 4:00. Got no work done, but everybody seemed to be having a good time. Daylight didn’t come until around 7:00 in the morning, and we didn’t start working the trail until after 9:00. But we made good progress. One of my pals from the south arrived with an enthusiastic day hiker who wanted to help. Fallen trees and overgrown bushes were flying off the trail. We did all the work that really needed to be done, including punching a narrow but obvious path through the thick brush on the backside of the ridge. Before After Kathleen & two girlfriends delivered dinner on horseback. It was a small contribution to the trail-clearing effort. Kathleen’s big contribution was influence because she retired as a district ranger in this forest, and she helped and encouraged me a lot while we planned this project. My trail crew received my modest tri-tip dinner & box of wine enthusiastically, and I managed not to burn the meat. When I retired to the tent it made me feel good to hear friendly chatting continue late into the night. I loved being in that beautiful place and sharing it with others who also enjoyed it. Grilling meat at Dutra Flat Camp Scenery at Dutra Flat Camp We hiked out the Use Trail and got back to Highway 1 around 2:00 pm. We’d eaten so well nobody was interested in the snack bar, so we all headed home. Hiking across Dutra Homestead meadow I dropped the key to the gate in a stamped, self-addressed envelope and mailed it to the local ranger. He received the envelope empty, and he’s mad at Kathleen & me. I spent several days returning tools and completing paperwork. This project was more challenging than it should have been, but the payoff is being out there. I still need to collect my reward of another trip to Dutra Flat to enjoy the fruits of our labors.
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toejam
Trail Wise!
Hiking to raise awareness
Posts: 1,795
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Post by toejam on Mar 24, 2017 1:29:24 GMT -8
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Post by Coolkat on Mar 24, 2017 5:27:42 GMT -8
toejam, thanks for the trip report! I'm somewhat jealous of your weather as I see the green grass in the pictures. And it's good to hear that someone is concerned about the people on their crew.
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rebeccad
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Post by rebeccad on Mar 24, 2017 9:41:10 GMT -8
toejam Thanks for sharing! I'll check out the photo album, but you should know that your pictures aren't coming through in the posts. Maybe check your links?
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toejam
Trail Wise!
Hiking to raise awareness
Posts: 1,795
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Post by toejam on Mar 24, 2017 10:10:36 GMT -8
your pictures aren't coming through That stinks. They look great on my computer!
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rebeccad
Trail Wise!
Writing like a maniac
Posts: 12,709
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Post by rebeccad on Mar 24, 2017 10:14:29 GMT -8
That stinks. They look great on my computer! Oddly, the first set is okay. After that, no go. Try logging out and looking at it as a guest.
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